Anderson Valve Leak???

[golf_bears]

Tried a whole bunch of things to stop the fresh water tank from filling while hooked up to RV park water supply. Replaced the spool in the Anderson valve, replaced the entire Anderson valve, thought about replacing the water pump because the check valve is probably leaking. The pump works fine and is difficult to get at to replace.

I'm thinking of getting a 12 v DC water solenoid valve and putting it on the fresh water tank fill water line. The valve is normally closed so when hooked to RV park water supply no water will get into the tank. The fill line is also the suction line for the water pump.

Thinking of putting the solenoid in parallel with the water pump on/off switch. When pump is off the solenoid valve is closed. When I need to use the pump (boon docking) and switch the pump on the solenoid valve will open and allow the pump to deliver water where needed.

The water line is a lot easier to get at and appears to be an easier fix for me.

What say you, pros or cons???

[golf_bears]

Dutch_12078, I also think if the check valve is on the output side of the pump, the pump's pressure gauge and trigger will never see the pressure drop in the water lines and therefore will not kick in.

[golf_bears]

I don't have the pump turned on when hook to city water supply. The pump leaks and fills the fresh tank when connected to the city water supply. So when the tank fills I go out, shut the city water off and turn the pump on. Now I start using the water in the tank. With the pump on it keeps cycling because it can't hold the pressure when all the faucts, etc, are turned off because it leaks back to the fresh tank. Kind of difficult to get ones hands around this because for me it's difficult to explain. Not a fun problem to deal with but my current process is working all be it a PITA. I do appreciate your thinking and suggestion. If you have any more thoughts, give me a shout, thanks.

[Dutch_12078]

golf_bears wrote:
Dutch_12078, I think putting a check valve on the output side of the pump at the Anderson Valve will allow the pump to cycle on and off. Because the leaking pump check valve is internal on the pump, it will still leak and the pressure will drop at the pump. No water will leak into the fresh tank, which I think is what you are thinking, but the pressure drop will let the pump cycle on and off.

If you examine the flow path inside the pump, the internal check valve is on the output path. And why would you have the pump turned on anyway, if you're connected to a city water supply?

[golf_bears]

Dutch_12078, I think putting a check valve on the output side of the pump at the Anderson Valve will allow the pump to cycle on and off. Because the leaking pump check valve is internal on the pump, it will still leak and the pressure will drop at the pump. No water will leak into the fresh tank, which I think is what you are thinking, but the pressure drop will let the pump cycle on and off.

[Dutch_12078]

Put a check valve on the output side of the pump. Since your pump is difficult reach, insert it at the Anderson valve end. I like SeaTech quick connect fittings for that purpose, no tools needed except a sharp knife.

SeaTech Check Valve - 1/2 CTS (5/8 OD)

[golf_bears]

Wildtoad, got you on that. My pluming is a little different, the fresh tank fill line and suction line to the pump are one of the same. Control of the fill is through the Anderson valve.

[wildtoad]

golf_bears wrote:
I thought about putting a manual valve on the water line. The problem is when switching over to the pump or vise-versa I need to go outside into the basement and open the valve or close it.

I like the flip of a switch from inside the RV.

Different strokes from different folks!!!!!

You bet on the stroke thing... I must have missed something I only have to operate the valve when I want to fill the tank, not use it.

[golf_bears]

I considered the check valve also but again ease of access was a problem. Water pump and suction line connection to the pump are difficult to get to. Got to lay in the basement, move a bunch of water lines, wires and heat duck to access. I can only lay in that position for a few minutes, old age has crept up on me.

Some day I'll probably need to replace the pump. Until then I'm avoiding having to deal with it.

Thanks for your suggestion. Appreciate all the help on gets on this forum.

[D_E_Bishop]

When my water pump check valve was leaking I just installed a second check valve on the suction side of the pump. Hardly noticeable change in the flow. I used a Surflow check valve part #340-001, price was $16.39 but probably higher now... Comes either 1/2" barb or IPT.

I finally pulled the pump and filter and cleaned both, no more back flow. I left the valve off.

[golf_bears]

I thought about putting a manual valve on the water line. The problem is when switching over to the pump or vise-versa I need to go outside into the basement and open the valve or close it.

I like the flip of a switch from inside the RV.

Different strokes from different folks!!!!!

[wildtoad]

One of the things I like about my BSS is it’s simplicity of such things. There is a MANUAL valve that when closed it feeds the house, when open it feeds the water tank and I suppose the house too. Some models I suppose have a more elegant system, but mine is somewhat foolproof. Not a big fan of adding additional things that could go wrong.