Atwood water heated will not stay running.

[Breed1229]

I’m hoping someone can help me out. I have an Atwood G6A-8E that will not stay running. I can turn it on when it’s cold and it will run for about 10 minutes. I have timed this. Occasionally it’s a but longer or a bit shorter, but about 10 minutes. Then it turns off and I get the fault light. If I turn it back on it will light and run for 5 seconds. Then if I let it cool it will start this all over. 10 minutes and then 5 seconds.
I have replaced the thermostat , the ECO, the igniter, the circuit board and I’m waiting on the valve body. Same thing.
I’ve cleaned all the connections and grounds. I’ve verified that the U tube is clear and that I have over 12 volts to the board and that the he bypass valve is in the proper position. Maybe the valve is broken? When it lights it runs nice and blue with just a slight roar.
Tonight I’m going to blow out the propane line to the heater just to be sure. I’m not really thinking that there will be an obstruction but what do I have to loose.
What am I missing? I’m sure it’s somthing silly. Racing season is here and I really would like a hot shower after a sticky day at the track.
Thank you in advance.

[Breed1229]

Just wanted to update. I have been working a lot and haven’t had the chance.
Water heater works as it should now. Swapped a board from a friends camper and now works. I have another board on the way. Dinosaur it is then.
Thanks for all the reply’s. You have all been a great help. Cheers.

[steved28]

Ralph Cramden wrote:
How old is it?

If newer look for this on the control board and if it's there call Atwood, they'll send you new board.

I just wanted to thank you for posting this. I must have gotten one of the last boards of this type (my rig was in final assembly about the time they stopped using these). I purchased a Dinosaur board to replace my failed OEM board. Contacted Atwood after I read this and they are reimbursing me for the board I purchased!

[Old-Biscuit]

Breed1229 wrote:
Have tested all the leads for continuity. ECO has been verified that it remains closed. It has got to be either a faulty board or a faulty flame sens. Both of those are new and it acts just the same as the old ones. As I said. I very well could have faulty parts. Would love to get this sorted before the season starts. New igniter on the way. Fingers crossed.

Did you look at the new replacement board for 'origin'?????

[BFL13]

Go down to page 15 for electric ignition ones.

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/atwoodwaterheater.pdf

They do say to first check the wiring on the blades.(page 21) You have changed many parts to no effect, so that leaves the wires?

[Breed1229]

Have tested all the leads for continuity. ECO has been verified that it remains closed. It has got to be either a faulty board or a faulty flame sens. Both of those are new and it acts just the same as the old ones. As I said. I very well could have faulty parts. Would love to get this sorted before the season starts. New igniter on the way. Fingers crossed.

[Old-Biscuit]

Loss of Flame Proving signal..
Loss of DC to ECO....

Both can occur with faulty circuit board

[BFL13]

Something is getting hot and it shuts down,red light, won't restart until cools down. How about a loose wire connection or broken wire inside its insulation that overheats? It is always 10 minutes, so R of whatever takes same time to heat up. R stays the same.

[Breed1229]

When it first cuts out around 10 min, the water is barely warm.
I found no obstructions in the propane line, didn’t really think I would, but hey might as well be sure. At this point I’m starting to think i have two bad boards. I have no loss of grounds. I can verify that with my multimeter. ECO is also not tripping, can also verify that. I have a new electrode but it acts the same with the old one or the new one. I’m hoping that I can take the circuit boards to a local RV dealer on Saturday, perhaps they can verify that they are working.
Thanks again for the replies. Much appreciated

[BFL13]

My thermal cut-off idea didn't work, so how about that the tank only has a little water in it so it heats up in 10 minutes and shuts down? (not sure how that could happen though!)

EDIT--OP says the red light comes on after the 10 minutes, so that can't be it either. 😞 Red light means ignition failed?

[Breed1229]

Thanks for all the input everyone. At this point it’s still acting up. Absolutely making me crazy. ??

[NRALIFR]

Keith, I have the same WH in my truck camper, and started a Tech Issues topic on 3/4/19 regarding a similar problem I was having.

Atwood Water Heater Problem

At the time of my last post, I thought we had the problem licked, but the T-stat/ECO turned out to NOT be the source of the problem. Mine is shutting off, and then immediately turning back on before the water is fully heated up. It does that several times before finally shutting off for good when the water reaches 140*.

After replacing the T-stat/ECO switches, and confirming the problem still exists, I tried cleaning the connections again but that didn’t help. I eventually discovered that I could cause the WH to shut off/on by tapping on the igniter board with a screwdriver handle. In fact, one component on the board appeared to be especially sensitive.

Anyway, I ordered another igniter board and I wanted to pass along some info that may be of help to you. I was told that Dometic bought Atwood, and now Dometic is doing things differently with the parts. When you bought a new igniter board from Atwood, they included an adapter plug that converted the edge connector on the older WH’s to the pin-type plug on the new igniter boards. Now that Dometic is supplying the parts, that little $2 adapter plug has to be purchased separately. I’m currently waiting on an adapter plug to be shipped so I can finish fixing my water heater. :M

I’ll update my topic once I get the new igniter board installed.

:):)

[midnightsadie]

thanks old biscuit ,you always have great advice. and how to check it out.

[Old-Biscuit]

Thermal Cut Off is a 'One Shot Fuse'...BLOWS at 190*F and MUST be replaced.
Blow back from combustion chamber trips it.

The Zhongding circuit boards are faulty......and as of Sept 2018 should NOT be available. Atwood got rid of them, notified Dealers and Vendors to do the same.

No 'thermocouple' used on OPs model. Electronic Ignition which also is used for flame proving )Spark ELectrode)


Run for 10 minutes or so.....
Fault Light comes on-----
2 things trigger fault light
*Loss of Flame Proving signal----bad/dirty spark electrode, cracked ceramic insulator, dirty loose high tension wire/wire connector, loss of ground
*ECO (Energy Cut Off--HI Temp T-stat) opening (180*F---so water should be very hot cause T-stat failed to open at 140*F), bad/dirty-loose spade connectors

***Bad circuit board can cause either of the 2 items that trigger Fault Light

[Ralph_Cramden]

How old is it?

If newer look for this on the control board and if it's there call Atwood, they'll send you new board.