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Batteries not getting 13.6 volts from distribution center

Tiggs
Explorer
Explorer
I hope someone will be able to provide me with direction. I noticed my batteries were not holding their charge so I started investigating the problem.

I started by checking the inline fuse on the black/positive wire. It was fine.

I started troubleshooting the distributor center as suggested by the manual, first by checking the two reverse polarity fuses which were fine. Next, with the trailer plugged into 120V AC, I unhooked the battery cables from the battery distribution center and tested the voltage at the battery cable ends. It read 0.00. I went in and tested the positive and negative output lugs and it was 13.6 (as the manual said it should be. Am I wrong in assuming the distribution center itself is working properly?

I've swapped out the inline fuse just to make sure it wasn't causing a problem. If there is an open in the wire, how would I find it? The wires travel down the frame of the RV for only a few feet and then disappear into the underbelly. How doI check for a loose ground? Finally the manual says it could be improper torques. What the heck does that mean??

Now comes the wacka-doodle portion of my question. Yesterday I could not get my trailer's clearance lights and license plate light to come on. I found I'd get a flash of lights if I smacked the left rear brake light so I took the lens cover off. As I worked, the clearance lights flickered on and off. I reached behind the brake light LED and pulled the bulb for the license plate light and the flickering stopped and my clearance lights came on and stayed on. I've got the bulb pulled out so I can get a new one. There is no freak of RV wiring that would cause these two issues to be related, is there? And why would a bad license plate bulb cause the clearance lights to go out?

Sorry for the long post, guys. Thanks for any insight you are able to give me.

Carolyn
Carolyn

2011 Funfinder X210-WBS
2013 Chevy Express 3500 - 6.0L V8, 6 speed trans.
Wolfhounds Duan, Vonnie, Cadhla, Sebastian and wee puppy MoonPie
And not to be forgotten, litte red terrier, Ozzy, the dog "Down Under"
17 REPLIES 17

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
IMHO, I think the battery charging and the lights are unrelated problems, but possibly not. I suspect the lights is a ground problem. Measure the voltage, or use a test lamp, using a separate ground.

If the wire from the distribution panel and the converter to the battery is good, maybe that is a ground problem, either at the converter or the battery.

BTW, is this a TT, smallish MH or a DP?
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
At the 12v fuse panel, where the battery wire lugs are, the battery and converter go to the same lugs (back and front), which then supply the fuses to the various 12v circuits.

OK, so you got 13.6 there which means the converter is ok on shore power. Now disconnect shore power and any 7-pin connection. You should see 12.x from battery at those lugs.

You say you got zero but you might have also disconnected the converter, don't know.

You have a battery disconnect switch somewhere, and then closer to the battery, a fuse (or DC circuit breaker) at the pos wire on the battery (might be on the neg ) to check out too.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check your distribution center for usually two FUSES that are off to them self labeled REVERSE POLARITY. These are two fuses along with the single in-line fuse you have already checked that are between the 12VDC distribution panel and the battery terminals.

The batteries should also power up your inside ceiling lights when you are not using the 120VAC shore power connection. i.e.if you are disconnected from the shore power connection you should see the 12.6VDC coming from the charged up batteries at the same point where you measures the 13.6VDC when you had the converter activated.

If you don't see the battery DC voltage at the 12VDC distribution panel then you have blown fuses, bad connections, dead battery, or perhaps an installed battery disconnect switch in the OFF position.

Has any work just recently been done on the battery terminal which was removed. They may have been installed in REVERSE ORDER. Find the word "NEG" or the symbol "-" on the battery case and make sure the cable connected to this negative battery terminal post comes from a FRAME GROUND connection which should be close to the installed battery. This is about the only thing that blow the REVERSE POLARITY fuses.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
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