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Battery issues

JandKSunshine
Explorer
Explorer
Hello! We're fixing up a '95 Winnebago Adventurer that we bought not too long ago, getting it ready for full-time use. We have a 400W solar system, with two batteries on the house bank and one on the engine bank.

Problem 1 - We seem to have a constant drain on the engine battery, which I read somewhere might be normal for a '95. (Is that true?) We took it to a festival, and after the weekend, the engine battery was dead. (We ran the dash stereo a lot, which didn't help - I'm wondering if I can just wire that to the house bank.) Anyway, I pushed the switch to start the engine from of the house bank, but it didn't do anything, so I put jumper cables on them and that did it - it started soon after. The switch made a clicking sound when I pushed it, which makes me think the switch is good...

Problem 2 - Taking out my multimeter, I'm reading zero resistance between the positive terminals on the engine and house banks. That shouldn't be, right? Those are supposed to be separated, right?

I just read something about a battery isolator - I'm wondering if all of these problems might be related to that? Would you have any other suggestions of things to check?

One other thing - should the solar only be used for the house bank? Or can I charge the engine battery off of it, too?

Thank you!!!

Johnny
4 REPLIES 4

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
JandKSunshine wrote:

Problem 2 - Taking out my multimeter, I'm reading zero resistance between the positive terminals on the engine and house banks.


You should NEVER try to measure resistance in a circuit that is "hot".

IF there was not a connection between the points you were testing, it might have fried your meter.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
A '95 used a 1116411, 425, 437 Delco reg which could not turn on without stator latent signal. The 10MT starter was old school. But the ECU PROM was fed battery voltage to keep memory settings. Isolate the PROM power, and every start was a computer re-learning curve. Neat huh? The voltage regulators above fit both the CS130 and the CS 144 alternator. Late 1980's CS alternators did not bother using a 270 ohm resistor in the PLIS "I" terminal which burned out the original 411 voltage regulator. This was a factory GM chassis problem.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
454 are notorious for battery drain
something to do with the starter or alternator
both of my previous MH had 454 and both would do that just setting

yes you can rewire the radio, i did, just find the (2) hot wires, 1 is for play the other is radio memory, and move them, run a wire from the house circuits up front under the hatch

unfortunaely, the emg start relay gets it power from the chassis battery which was dead, so pushing the button did not work
it might have worked if you had pushed it before hitting the key ... maybe

take the hot wire from the rocker/push button and move it to a hot wire from the house batteries, that way it will always work (as long as the house batteries have charge) thats what i did

while your at it
go online and find a 454 hot starter sheild
hot starter restart problems are another thing, they are know for
the starter blanket reduces that problems, keeping some of the exhaust heat off the starter, so it doesnt get heat soaked and lockup
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
JandKSunshine wrote:
One other thing - should the solar only be used for the house bank? Or can I charge the engine battery off of it, too?
Separately, perhaps. It's not clear to me that charging two dissimilar battery setups will work well.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman