Bearing puller for utility trailer

[Roadwheel]

Hi,

I recently got a free 4x8 utility trailer. I pulled apart the bearings and the grease that is still there is red and black and some shades of brown. One has some chips of metal in the dust cap. I'm thinking I should replace the bearings.

Is there a bearing puller that will remove the races from the hubs? I've read about slide hammer pullers and I've seen the screw-type ones online, but I haven't read much about them being used for trailer bearings.

The bearing size is 30205, which is 25mm x 52mm x 16.25mm.

[LScamper]

Take to a shop. Buy bearings there. They may pull and replace the races free.

[opnspaces]

Personally I would try the puller you have first.

[Roadwheel]

I think I'll try reusing the races since the outer race looks shiny for half its width and looks lightly sanded on the other half.

The other hub is another story. The dust cap has grease mixed with flakes of metal and it looks like a strip of metal from the bearing cage is partially detached. The hub won't come off, so at least one of the bearings is seized to the spindle.

I have the three jaw puller and a five pound slide hammer that I borrowed. Should I wait until I can borrow a FWD hub puller? Should I use WD40 or try without first?

[LittleBill]

if you have a welder, you run a bead on the race, it will break free. or just take an angle grinder at 45% angle, and cut it off.

[Grit_dog]

Roadwheel wrote:
I borrowed a "rear axle bearing remover set" and a "2 or 3 jaw slide hammer puller" from an auto parts shop. Both use a slide hammer, which I also borrowed. One of the employees thought the rear axle bearing puller would work better, but the smallest size is a little too big to fit squarely behind the race. The 3 jaw puller fits, but when I tighten it, the tips of the hooks run into the inside of the hub before the jaws are snug against the race.

I don't have a dead blow hammer or a brass drift. I looked online and found a 3/8"x6" drift and a 1/2"x7". I think the hub is about 4.5" end to end. Is there a best size? Is a tapered drift better?

Skip trying to punch it out with a drift and find a socket or piece of steel pipe/tubing/etc that fits and use that. Even the right size piece of hardwood or maybe normal lumber depending how tight it is. And if you were punching it out using a punch, there’s no real issue using a steel punch. Worst case you scratch or ding the bore of the hub. Clean off the high spots if any and slap a new race in it.

[opnspaces]

Mine is just a length of a brass rod I found in the cutoff bin at a metal supply shop. It's about 4 1/2 inches long and 1/2 inch diameter. It's a bit short so yes go longer. If the prices are not exorbitant and the price difference is minimal I would go with the thicker 7 in long 1/2 in diameter punch.

For bearing races I use a standard hammer not a dead blow. In fact I can't even remember the last time I have pulled my dead blow hammer out of the tool box.

To install the new races make sure the race is correct side up as Grit said. Most big name auto parts stores have free tool rental. Rent their bearing race installer set and tap the new races in. Do not use the old or new bearings to tap the race in.

[Roadwheel]

I borrowed a "rear axle bearing remover set" and a "2 or 3 jaw slide hammer puller" from an auto parts shop. Both use a slide hammer, which I also borrowed. One of the employees thought the rear axle bearing puller would work better, but the smallest size is a little too big to fit squarely behind the race. The 3 jaw puller fits, but when I tighten it, the tips of the hooks run into the inside of the hub before the jaws are snug against the race.

I don't have a dead blow hammer or a brass drift. I looked online and found a 3/8"x6" drift and a 1/2"x7". I think the hub is about 4.5" end to end. Is there a best size? Is a tapered drift better?

[Grit_dog]

^Agree. Don’t overcomplicate it. Standard wheel bearing applications are pretty easy to do. Just don’t reinstall the new races backwards or you’ll get more practice removing them than you wish!

[opnspaces]

You're thinking too much. A bearing race is a bearing race. It makes no difference if it's in a utility trailer or in a 1956 Chevy or a 44 foot 5th wheel. They all come out and go in the same.

I do it old school with a brass punch and the hub sitting nestled into a few 2x4's for clearance. But that doesn't mean you have to do it that way. If you want to use a puller by all means use a puller.

My only concern on some of the kits I see on Amazon is they just look like an installer kit with an addition of a slide hammer or screw puller. But many hubs use the same size bearings for inner and outer. So I can't imagine how you will get past the outer race to be able to hook onto the small lip of the inner race in order to pull it.

[Grit_dog]

If you’re using it for local use only (can’t imagine big road trips with a tiny wheeled trailer), first clean it all out and see if there’s a real issue.
Next, unless the races are trashed or severely worn, you can likely leave them in and just slap new bearings in, if the bearings are bad.
If you need to remove the races, it’s easy with just common hand tools.
Heat the hub hit with a mapp gas torch. Knock the races out with a socket (like from your socket set) that just fits inside the bore.
Or loan a tool or buy a bearing/seal install kit. I’ve never done that but have replaced probably 100 different wheel bearing races with heat, the right size socket and a bfh.

[bucky]

You're smart to have checked your "free" trailer. Good job.

[Dusty_R]

Some grease is red.

[wolfe10]

Just use a brass drift and hammer to remove the races.

It is soft and will not harm the race or hub.