calking job question

[RoyC]

a few days ago it was raining and I discovered water dripping from the vents in the kitchen and bath. I took it to my local trailer/rv repair place and paid to have the roof calking all replaced. (I have had work done there a couple times before with good results.) I checked the job when I got home and the calking was semi cured. (I have used similar calking before where it takes many days if not weeks to cure completely to a hard state.) They did the work the day before yesterday and it rained last night and this morning (very light intermittent showers). The invoice specifies Silkaflex - but not which type. The rain doesn't seem to be affecting it. But I noticed that it looks like they didn't even clean the roof before applying the calking and it looks like they applied it right over the old calking. Does this sound right to you guys?

[RoyC]

thanks for all the replies. The written estimate says "peel and reseal roof". Not sure exactly sure what "peel" means in this case but it sounds like some kind of removal process anyway. The old calking was not silicone except for where I used that type to install the brackets for the solar panels I installed - they covered this also. The labor charge was $375 which I thought at the time was less than I was expecting.

[JIMNLIN]

Adding a sealant over old sealant on a hair line crack is fine if the old is still bonded tight.
However when adding more sealant over old there shouldn't be a build up that creates a dam (lake affect) for water to sit.

[dougrainer]

Depending on what the job requires depends on the cost. Years ago(at least 10) Newmar had a recall that required ALL the sidewall area Sikaflex to be removed and new Sikaflex installed(The Sikaflex did not have the required UV inhibitor). The Average labor hours for that job on a 40 foot Diesel was 8.5 hours labor at then $100 per hour plus the Sikaflex. So, the warranty time plus parts came to just over $1000. This did NOT affect any roof sealant. So, just look at this example, do you really want to pay to remove the old sealant if new can be applied over the old and it looks good? If you cannot overlay the old, then expect to pay at least $1000 for a quality job or do it yourself. Doug

[mikeleblanc413]

I learned early on: have deep pockets or be willing to do it yourself. I've handled many situations, not always as a "professional" would. For most situations, I prefer to learn as I go and enjoy the Minnie Winnie along the way!

[peaches_cream]

midnightsadie wrote:
IF YOU CAN SHOW THEY DID NOT REMOVE THE OLD STUFF? i,D BE ON THEM IN A HEART BEAT, NO REASON FOR BAD WORK. go gettem.

I'm sure they would have been happy to remove the old stuff if you are willing to pay for the labor. Probably would not be any difference in durability but your billfold would be a bunch lighter. Paying over $100 per hour to remove old caulk that is not turning loose is a waste of money, but some people have plenty of it to waste. :S

[Cobra21]

If it looks okay and doesn't leak, it is good.

[2oldman]

If they bid the job including removal/cleaning, you probably would have skipped it. It's a lot of work.

After all, it's a roof. It doesn't have to look good.

[jrnymn7]

It depends on the type of caulking. Silicone, for instance, must be removed before new is installed. And the area must be neutralized with vinegar.

[RoyC]

The old calking was not loose or flaking or anything, it just had a lot of hairline cracks. BUT if you look closely you can see that the cracks are filled with clear proflex paint-on calking. My habit(prior to a couple of years ago) was to yearly go up there and fill them up. Also, it has been raining here almost daily for a week or two so the roof was not really dirty. Trying to give them the benefit of the doubt.

[BarneyS]

Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.

[Old-Biscuit]

Recaulking over older caulking is not an issue in and of itself.
IF old caulking was in decent shape----not crumbling, flaking off, become chalky...then new over old is OK

[midnightsadie]

IF YOU CAN SHOW THEY DID NOT REMOVE THE OLD STUFF? i,D BE ON THEM IN A HEART BEAT, NO REASON FOR BAD WORK. go gettem.

[WyoTraveler]

I ordered caulking on line and spoke to a real person. They had every caulking available. My original choce was Sikaflex. They had it but recommended Dicor. They said it takes Sikaflex a long time to cure and it picks up dust and dirt during that time and dries softer. Also that Sikaflex drying slows with some cleaning chemicals and that is why they also sell special cleaning solution. They did say it was also a very good product but I would happier with Dicor. I bought Dicor self leveling and some eterna bond tape. Did the job myself. Cleaned with mineral spirits first.

You can download Sikaflex specs. I did before I bought the Dicor.

[RoyC]

thanks for the reply EMD. I used to do that stuff myself but I currently have health probs that prevent me. Don't know if it matters but the old caulking was in decent overall shape - never leaked before. The guy said it was just getting to the point of needing fixing. Guess I need to talk to him about it. They are the only repair place around so I hope I don't loose confidence in them.