Changing Atwood water heater plug to brass

[msmith1199]

I had to move my motorhome from it’s previous storage to a new place and the new place isn’t heated. So for the first time in 15 years I have to winterize. But since I use it during the winter I want to make winterizing as easy as possible because I’ll have to do it a few times each winter.

I see a brass 1/2” plug with a petcock valve on it on Amazon. Is there any problem with using this instead of the plastic plugs they come with? Seems easier to just open the petcock valve versus messing with the plastic plug.

[babock]

deleted

[mchero]

BFL13 wrote:
We just had a thread on that, where ISTR the pros said it was a bad idea due to brass and aluminum issues.

The rear of my Atwood GE16EXT hot water heater has brass fittings into the aluminium tank. No problems since 2007.

[mikestock]

Larry CAd wrote:
Yeah, probably shoulda read the other responses.

That's what I said. Copied and posted to the wrong thread, accidentally.

[MrWizard]

True
But access on mine is a PITA
Can't use a socket because of the gas line being in the way, passing in front of the plug, available socket was too deep to fit in the space
Open end wrench won't fit straight on the plug because of the exhaust cover of the wh is In the way
Have to remove the exhaust cover (one small screw)
Then an open end 7/8 wrench can be used,
I could not find a 7/8 box end wrench in my tool box
An offset box wrench would have been the best tool for the job
And I needed 2 wraps of Teflon tape to get a full seal
Tried without the Teflon , and it leaked, less then old plug, but leaked

[Gdetrailer]

MrWizard wrote:
My plastic plugs from the Amazon link arrived Thurs afternoon
Installed a new plug today
No more leak,

🙂

Simple and inexpensive leak fix without the need to "reinvent the wheel".

[larry_cad]

mikestock wrote:
I apologize that I have not read all the responses so if I duplicate others it is not on purpose.

I have winterized my various RV's for 30 years but not until 3 years ago did I do so by compressed air. I bought a $100 butterbean compressor, which has held up well. I just attach it to the water inlet, empty the water heater by removing the plug, bypass the water heater and set the compressor on 65 psi. I run the compressor as I turn on each water outlet on, one at a time and let it stay open until there is no water present. This includes the washing machine. Only pour the pink stuff into each drain trap and a small amount in the washing machine to run it through the drain pump.

I have a domestic refrigerator and have to disconnect and drain the ice maker line.

This is easier, cheaper and quicker than the old method with the pink stuff.

Yeah, probably shoulda read the other responses. :B

[mikestock]

I apologize that I have not read all the responses so if I duplicate others it is not on purpose.

I have winterized my various RV's for 30 years but not until 3 years ago did I do so by compressed air. I bought a $100 butterbean compressor, which has held up well. I just attach it to the water inlet, empty the water heater by removing the plug, bypass the water heater and set the compressor on 65 psi. I run the compressor as I turn on each water outlet on, one at a time and let it stay open until there is no water present. This includes the washing machine. Only pour the pink stuff into each drain trap and a small amount in the washing machine to run it through the drain pump.

I have a domestic refrigerator and have to disconnect and drain the ice maker line.

This is easier, cheaper and quicker than the old method with the pink stuff.

[MrWizard]

My plastic plugs from the Amazon link arrived Thurs afternoon
Installed a new plug today
No more leak,

[tarnold]

Just went to Lowe’s and got brass fixtures like dford $$$. Had to take a punch and indent the bottom of the frame were the end plug terminates about an 1/8”. Just to tight to unscrew drain cap. Easy pezzy to drain now. If I want to flush, a garden hose will screw on with end cap removed.

[wolfe10]

Another good option for removing mineral deposits is to "vacuum then out".

5' of cheap clear vinyl hose. With tank full, but not pressurized remove plug insert hose and start a siphon with it. Move the tank end round the bottom of the tank-- you will see in the clear hose what you are vacuuming out (and when you all you get is clear water.

If it hasn't been done in a couple of years, may have to refill tank and repeat.

[drsteve]

Old-Biscuit wrote:


IF you want to really move the crud out......remove the drain plug and turn water supply ON.
Cold inlet dip tube points down...full pressure will stir the bottom of tank up and BLAST it out the drain hole (especially on an Attwood with only a 1/2" hole)

I like it, thanks for that!

[Old-Biscuit]

drsteve wrote:

deltabravo wrote:
I've had less than stellar results with the anode rod / petcock drain plug device


The petcock self destructed and became useless

I don't like the reduced flow on these. Seeing one fall apart is just another reason to stick with the nylon plug, IMHO.

That link is for a Suburban Brand that uses an anode rod.

Petcocks reduce the flow and do not allow for crud/scale to exit from the tank


DFORD has a simple modification that does NOT hinder draining
And IF you want to really move the crud out......remove the drain plug and turn water supply ON.
Cold inlet dip tube points down...full pressure will stir the bottom of tank up and BLAST it out the drain hole (especially on an Attwood with only a 1/2" hole)

[wolfe10]

I have always stayed with Atwood's own nylon drain plug-- about $1 and no worries about galvanic reaction (where the aluminum tank is pretty much always the anode and will "give its life" to protect the more noble metal of anything screwed into it).

When draining and flushing (part of annual water heater service) I use a piece of aluminum foil tucked up under the drain and leading down over the side of the coach to route the minerals and water from flush (with 50/50 white vinegar then clear water) away from the coach.

[RayJayco]

I have found that Nickel Anti-seize is a great go between on many dissimilar metals, especially steel and aluminum, although others as well. It is what I used on mine about 6 years ago.