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Converter problem

gillis
Explorer
Explorer
Hello , I am having a problem with a WF- 8835 converter . It will not charge my battery and it none of the 12v systems work . I have checked all fuses , they are good . I removed the wires from the converter and checked the output which was 13 volts not 13.6 like the manual says it should be . So should the 12 circuits work even if the battery is out of the unit ? Also is the 13 volts good enough to charge my battery? Currently nothing on the 12v side is working .

Please help Thank you
Bill
13 REPLIES 13

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Yes I believe you are correct, a bad converter
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

gillis
Explorer
Explorer
Ok the converter has 13.56 volts out put with nothing connected. Now with no battery installed I reconnected the output wires and retested at the converter output terminals and I get 3.4 volts .Now when I pull the positive wire off the converter I get a voltage of 12.03 . Mind you I also have both red wires that are in the fuse panel disconnected . Now I disconnected the white wire from the converter and i get a voltage of 11.56 . All the fuses are good . This is a deck mount unit separate from the fuse panel . I ran a separate wire from the converter positive to the fuse panel and the voltages are the same as when wired normally. I believe I have a bad converter when it is put under load it won't produce enough power to run my 12v systems or charge the battery .

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Remove a battery cable... now you have just the converter powering the RV.
Turn on the lights and measure the voltage. I assume the 8835 may hold 13 at no load but will sag badly with the lights on.

Post the results but I think you are looking at a replacement. I recommend PD4635 converter.

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4635V-35-Amp-Converter-Upgrade

wilanddij
Explorer
Explorer
WFCO converters are not known to be good battery chargers. Go to bestconverter.com to find a quality replacement, Randy will fix you up. I don't know what kind of camping you do but I would recommend a Progressive Dynamics replacement.
Bingo.
Will & Di
2004 Southwind 32VS
Workhorse/8.1
Ford C-Max/Blue Ox
"We have met the enemy, and he is us" Pogo

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Start by fixing this first

Power at battery. No power at fuse panel. Make SURE fuse panel has negative. Measure Fuse Panel Negative to chassis negative at battery negative post. Direct shot. Means running a wire to your meter a few dozen feet perhaps.

gillis
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all for responding I will try some of the ideas givin here and let you know how I make out

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Does it have 'reverse polarity' fuses?
Are they blown?
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Is your wfco converter and D.C. Fuse panel in the same location ?

Did you leave some wires disconnected from each other ?
Like multiple positive or negative wires that were connected at the battery posts

My converter is stand alone deck mount, in one compartment, my fuses are in the bedroom cabinet, my batteries on the other side of the RV from the converter

If I removed the batteries, I would have to connect all the negative wires, tape them up , and do the same for all the positive wires
Or I would not have any power in my RV
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
What happened to me when I had one of those single mode 13.6VDC converter/chargers is that it finally over-charged my 12VDC battery which boiled out the fluids and then it came up with a shorted cell in the battery. Then the converter/charger blew the in-line fuse next to the battery since the battery was only putting out around 5VDC due to the shorted cell and the converter/charger was trying to pump 13.6VDC into it which created a very large DC CURRENT situation that blew the fuse.

Using one of those single mode 13.6VDC Chargers is OK but one must keep an eye on the battery fluids or a regular basis is what I found out the hard way...

X2 one of the test is something I do alot just walking around my trailer. I like to measure across the battery terminals with no shore power connected and if my batteries are fully charged I will read 12.6-7VDC across the terminals. Then I like to engage Shore Power and when reading across the same battery terminals I should see this DC Voltage jump up to the 13.6VDC or higher depending what smart mode my new converter/charger mode is in.

This tells me every thing is connected like it is suppose to be and no disconnects between the converter/charger and the battery terminals. There is also two very high value fuses off to them self in the 12VDC Power Distribution panel that may be labeled REVERSE POLARITY. Might want to check these as well to if one of them has blown due to very high current possibly being in the system. These will act like a battery disconnect is one is blown.

The whole trailer revolves around the battery haha... Something to keep a close eye-on on a regular basis...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
It's likely you have an auto reset circuit breaker (https://www.amazon.com/15amp-Automotive-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00FRHS2BK) located near your house batteries. When these breakers go bad it cuts off the battery from the rig. They are inexpensive and readily available at any auto parts store. Worth a look.
Kevin

Artum_Snowbird
Explorer
Explorer
If you have 13V at the converter, you should have the same voltage on your battery. If you don't, one of the wires from the converter to the battery is not tight.

In my case, it was the negative wire on the converter negative bus that was loose.

If you can connect pieces of wire to the positive and the negative at the converter output, use your jumpers to take first the negative to the battery. If that helps, it's the negative that is loose. If when you connect the positive it helps, look for a loose positive connection.
Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
2005 16.6 Double Eagle
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK
previously Snowbird Campers,
Triple E Motorhome and Fifth Wheel

Unyalli
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure but I believe with the converter DC output disconnected it is in float as it feels no current draw. Pretty sure converter will power 12v without a battery. With everything connected and something 12v on like he range hood fan what is the voltage at the converter?

- Jeff
2016 Cougar 26RBI
2015 Ford F150 CC 3.5L Ecoboost Max Tow

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
It doesn't make sense that you have 13 V output but your 12 systems are not working. Look for a battery disconnect switch. 13 volts is not up to specification so the converter needs to be replaced. It will never fully charge your battery. WFCO converters are not known to be good battery chargers. Go to bestconverter.com to find a quality replacement, Randy will fix you up. I don't know what kind of camping you do but I would recommend a Progressive Dynamics replacement.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad