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Converter problems

scottew71
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2008 Rockwood Roo 23SS. It has a Paralax power supply 7100 converter in it. I have no 12 volt power. The Battery is dead and not charging even when plugged into household current. I found a diagnostic table online for the converter. I followed it and it says the converter is ok but may be in an over current state a bad battery or bad battery wiring. It talks about pulling fuses to determine where the problem is. I pulled the fuse but then what am I supposed to check to see if that circuit is the problem. It says there may be a short. If there were a short shouldn't the fuse be blown? Also my 12 volt circuits don't work even when plugged in. I am thinking I may have a bad battery and this system used the battery as a buffer? Any help is welcome.
Scott, Betty,Natalie(DD). Rachel (dog). 2016 Aerolite 292 DBHS 2012 F-150 Super Crew Ecoboost Max Tow
22 REPLIES 22

scottew71
Explorer
Explorer
Ok thanks to everyone for the tips and help with my problem. I am happy to say that after a battery and converter the problem is fixed. And when the converter works it does supply 12v power without a battery even being connected. I checked before I connected the battery. So I am back in business. Unfortunately we already made other plans for this weekend so it will two weeks before we get to go again. Thanks again for all the advice.
Scott, Betty,Natalie(DD). Rachel (dog). 2016 Aerolite 292 DBHS 2012 F-150 Super Crew Ecoboost Max Tow

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
scottew71 wrote:
This is a link to the flow chart that I followed. http://www.parallaxpower.com/7100/PPS%207100%20Series%20Diagnostic%20.pdf
I got to the point where I pulled the 30 amp fuses and tested the blue wire to ground and that current was good. But then it goes into (note 2) which is kinda foggy to me.
This is getting overly complicated. Converters are easy to troubleshoot.

1. Do you have 120V on input?
2. Do you have 13.6V on output?
3. If you have 120V and no 13.6V, then converter is bad or a converter fuse blew.
4. If you do not have 120V, then find where the 120V is, restore it, then test converter again.

scottew71
Explorer
Explorer
This is a link to the flow chart that I followed. http://www.parallaxpower.com/7100/PPS%207100%20Series%20Diagnostic%20.pdf
I got to the point where I pulled the 30 amp fuses and tested the blue wire to ground and that current was good. But then it goes into (note 2) which is kinda foggy to me.
Scott, Betty,Natalie(DD). Rachel (dog). 2016 Aerolite 292 DBHS 2012 F-150 Super Crew Ecoboost Max Tow

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thought you had tested converter and it was OK but in an 'over current' state......demand higher than converter can provide.

With a bad battery converter would go into over current.

Need to borrow that meter back and check converter AC input (110V) and DC output (13.6V) before you put another battery back in.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would hang onto the battery if money is tight. It may have reduced capacity but it seems to charge. Actually you could just use the portable and existing battery in place of the converter until you get this resolved.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Breakers can seem to be ok when they aren't. Simple check is to swap the breaker the converter is on with one of the others. (switch where the black wires go)
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

John_Wayne
Explorer II
Explorer II
Does the converter have a 110 plug that just plugs into an outlet? If so plug a light into the converter 110 plug and make sure you have power at that outlet. If not that is your problem popped CB or bad CB
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scottew71
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:
If the two 30a fuses are ok, then the culprit could be the 120v input. This goes through one of the breakers on the AC dist panel, which you can check out and replace if needed.

Often, the converter will be on the same breaker as the 120v receptacles, but not always. If shore power works on 120v things but not the receptacles or any 120v lights, then if they share with the converter on their breaker, that CB is the guilty party.


The converter appears to have its own CB. The recpticals work and all lights are 12v.
Scott, Betty,Natalie(DD). Rachel (dog). 2016 Aerolite 292 DBHS 2012 F-150 Super Crew Ecoboost Max Tow

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
If the two 30a fuses are ok, then the culprit could be the 120v input. This goes through one of the breakers on the AC dist panel, which you can check out and replace if needed.

Often, the converter will be on the same breaker as the 120v receptacles, but not always. If shore power works on 120v things but not the receptacles or any 120v lights, then if they share with the converter on their breaker, that CB is the guilty party.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

scottew71
Explorer
Explorer
mena661 wrote:
What was the voltage on the output of the converter?


Just read battery voltage.
Scott, Betty,Natalie(DD). Rachel (dog). 2016 Aerolite 292 DBHS 2012 F-150 Super Crew Ecoboost Max Tow

mena661
Explorer
Explorer
What was the voltage on the output of the converter?

scottew71
Explorer
Explorer
Ok tonight I plugged in shore power with no battery connected and still had nothing from the 12 volt side as far as lights and stuff. I had to return the borrowed meter I was using but had no power to anything powered by 12 volts. Also I took the battery and had it tested it was bad. I did check for continuity from the battery cables and had none. I have checked the 30 amp fuses and they both looked good I may replace just to see if that helps. I really don't want to spend $180 on a new converter if I don't have too.
Scott, Betty,Natalie(DD). Rachel (dog). 2016 Aerolite 292 DBHS 2012 F-150 Super Crew Ecoboost Max Tow

S_more_campers
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds like no output from converter is issue, as charged battery runs functions. I'm with BFL13, check output side of converter for failed fuses.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The 7100 is a "modern" switch-mode converter that does not need a battery to act as its filter like the older model 6300s did.

You can disconnect all batteries and run the rig on shore power and get clean 12v at 13.8v from the 7100.

The two 30a reverse polarity fuses are on its DC fuse panel. If you did that crime, you must replace both fuses even if one is looking good.

There should be a fuse or DC circuit breaker within 18" of the battery pos post. This might have blown for some reason. If it is a DC CB, it might be resettable. Look for a little black button on it to push for reset.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.