Converter Question

[iski4fun]

Good day, 1999 Fleetwood Travel Trailer 25 ft - does this rig have a converter? My interior lights were getting dim even when plugged into shore power. This prompted me to search for a converter to possibly replace because I understood a failing converter could be the culprit (due to not adequately charging the 12v). I couldn't find one, just a basic panel with 12v fuses and breakers for the 120v. I'm wondering if this rig even has a converter. Replaced 12v batteries which helps the dim lights, and I'm keeping them charged with a trickle charger. Is it possible this rig does not even have a converter and the 2 systems are separate? Note: interior lights on the 12v do not turn on at all when batteries are disconnected. Thanks, Bill

[2112]

The IOTA DLS-30 is now on sale HERE for $23 plus shipping. That's an amazing deal. Shipping cost me $7.

It's a fixed output without the IQ-4 Smart Controller. However, the output can be adjusted by an easily accessible potentiometer under the top cover.

[Gdetrailer]

wa8yxm wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
But I do agree, love my PD9160 with Charge Wizard pendant.. Really does treat my batteries right. But PDs will easily set you back $200+..

PD-9180R (Factory Refurb) 236 out the factory door (Yes I went to the source to buy the horse) I re-used the original wizzard.

Of course that's a big-un

The Wizard does allow you to kick it back into BOOST mode manually.

Yep, I found a deal on a factory refurb 9160 for $189 but then had to pony up for the Wizard pendant.. Used that to replace the original old transformer linear supply that came with the TT. Not cheap, but VERY effective setup.

[wa8yxm]

Gdetrailer wrote:
But I do agree, love my PD9160 with Charge Wizard pendant.. Really does treat my batteries right. But PDs will easily set you back $200+..

PD-9180R (Factory Refurb) 236 out the factory door (Yes I went to the source to buy the horse) I re-used the original wizzard.

Of course that's a big-un

The Wizard does allow you to kick it back into BOOST mode manually.

[2112]

I wonder if iski4fun found a blown fuse (back on topic)

[time2roll]

IOTA actually has about a dozen profiles with different IQ4 controllers.

https://www.iotaengineering.com/products/dls-power-converters-battery-chargers#t=ablProducts&sort=re...

[BFL13]

2112 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
IOTA 14.8 is a bit of a misnomer. The trigger point in Bulk mode is 14.6 volts that triggers a drop to 14.2 volts for Absorption. However there is a 15 minute timer so there is a possibility voltage could rise from 14.6 to 14.8 volts during that 15 minutes. IOTA does not hold voltage at 14.8 volts for any real length of time.

That's good to know. Thanks

Iota starts at 14.8 no matter if the battery is already full and stays there for 15 minutes. If the battery is lower ( I don't know how low) then it stays there till the battery reaches 14.6 and drops to 14.2 for (ISTR) 8 hours then if no activity will go to 13.2 (ISTR)

Boondocker (supplied by PowerMax, same as LKs) will stay at 14.6 for the first half hour even if the battery is already full (instead of 15 minutes) then drops to 13.6 for 12 hours then drops to 13.2 if no activty. If the battery is low enough that it is under 14.3 on start-up (ISTR) it stays at 14.6 until battery gets there and then drops to 13.6 for the 12 hours.

I don't know where Iota decides to stay at 14.8 past the first 15 minutes. Has to be a built-in program for that in the IQ4.

An interesting variation on this is the Boondocker/PowerMax complete power centre you can buy, which has a converter as its "lower portion". That converter is slightly smaller in physical size (so a standard lower portion won't fit), but it has a different charging three-stage profile where it stays at 14.6 for two hours instead of just for half an hour. IMO that would be a better profile than the half hour one, but "it depends" of course.

All the worries about too high a voltage for the voltage stages only applyto temperatures above 77F. At 50F the voltages are too low. Adjustable voltage takes care of all that (ie PowerMax) but you have to be there and do the adjusting.

[2112]

time2roll wrote:
IOTA 14.8 is a bit of a misnomer. The trigger point in Bulk mode is 14.6 volts that triggers a drop to 14.2 volts for Absorption. However there is a 15 minute timer so there is a possibility voltage could rise from 14.6 to 14.8 volts during that 15 minutes. IOTA does not hold voltage at 14.8 volts for any real length of time.

That's good to know. Thanks

[time2roll]

IOTA 14.8 is a bit of a misnomer. The trigger point in Bulk mode is 14.6 volts that triggers a drop to 14.2 volts for Absorption. However there is a 15 minute timer so there is a possibility voltage could rise from 14.6 to 14.8 volts during that 15 minutes. IOTA does not hold voltage at 14.8 volts for any real length of time.

This is about the same as the Boondocker except the Boondocker drops to 13.6 volts to finish absorption.

[2112]

Yea, I wasn't thinking of a diode. I have 1 on my little 1A float charger. I can add a 30A or better schottky to this.

The output of the IOTA is adjustable by adjusting pot P1 on the board. However, the trip point using the IQ4 is still 14.8V and it will never get there if you adjust P1 to 13.2V before connecting IQ4.

My battery charger for several years now is an old 20A HP power supply. So I've been doing it manually for years.

[Gdetrailer]

2112 wrote:
As time2roll pointed out, the IOTA floats at 13.6V, same as my WFCO. A bit too high for camping in the heat. This boils my batteries over time.

With the IQ4, the IOTA bulks at 14.8V, absorbs at 14.2V and floats at 13.6V. It's my understanding this profile is too high for my Johnson Controls 29DC batteries. iski4fun`s batteries may better handle these higher voltages long term.

My $70 IOTA with IQ4 will make a nice multi stage bench charger/power supply but I'm not replacing the WFCO with it.

You guys give up entirely too easily.

A Schottky diode of suitable amperage in series with the positive output terminal can easily fix that 13.6V issue..

Schottky diodes have .3V-.4V forward voltage drop vs conventional diodes which typically have .7V forward voltage drop.

.3V-.4V voltage drop gets right on top of 13.2V-13.3V and figure in a little loss in the wiring and you will not have boiling issues.

The only downside would be the bulk and absorbsion voltages would also be dropped a bit but IOTA seems to be a bit hot there also.

LEARN ABOUT SCHOTTKY DIODES



But I do agree, love my PD9160 with Charge Wizard pendant.. Really does treat my batteries right. But PDs will easily set you back $200+..

[BFL13]

The IQ4 does not let you pick the voltage stages like the CW does. You activate the IQ4 and it goes from there. You can turn the converter off and start a new IQ4 run, but you can't make it stay at 14.x any longer than it wants to.

The CW gives you some control, but has only the three voltages, none of which might be what you (your battery) wants. You can beat that by getting an adjustable voltage converter that lets you pick any voltage you want for as long as you want.

PowerMax LK models do that plus they also have the automatic three stage mode if that is all you want your converter to do. Not only that but they are much lower in cost than PDs and Iotas. (and they are not cheapo junk either--just a better deal)

Not everybody wants to use a manual control adjustable voltage converter though. Whatever works for your own operating style is the way to go, even if it not perfect for your battery.

[2112]

As time2roll pointed out, the IOTA floats at 13.6V, same as my WFCO. A bit too high for camping in the heat. This boils my batteries over time.

With the IQ4, the IOTA bulks at 14.8V, absorbs at 14.2V and floats at 13.6V. It's my understanding this profile is too high for my Johnson Controls 29DC batteries. iski4fun`s batteries may better handle these higher voltages long term.

My $70 IOTA with IQ4 will make a nice multi stage bench charger/power supply but I'm not replacing the WFCO with it.

[steveh27]

I replaced my **** Magnatek with a Progressive Dynamics from Best Convertors. Talk to Randy there.

[wa8yxm]

My preference for replacement is Progressive Dynamics wizard models but the IOTA with IQ4... A very very very very tight #2 on my list.
How close are they? Bumper locked. is the term that applies.