country water / anode / Suburban / smelly water ?'n

[Country_RVer]

Hi, we stored our Travel Trailer (Suburban 10 gal water tank) for 2 years and am now camping with it, have had it set up about 6 weeks.

We're in a private campground that has a well.

The cold water smells a little bit like iron, as it will in this part of Sask Canada.

The hot water reeks of sulphur.

Pulled the anode, it's pretty well toast.

However: replacing the anode with another Suburban anode will just continue having the country well water react with the magnesium and we'll still get the sulphur stink.

Plumber friend suggested not to use the anode. Of coure then the water heater (steel/glass lined) will corrode and not last very long. Not to mention no warranty however it's a 2013 trailer so prob don't have any warranty left.

What's in this site makes sense http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/Troubleshooting/stinky-water-in-hot-water-heaters.html

but I'd like to combine it with RV-ers knowledge.

Right now we've turned off the heater and flushed it clean and stopped the direct water and poured 24 oz bleach in the 40 gallon holding tank and ran it through the system and are letting it sit 2 days. (Hydrogen peroxide would work too and is safer as/and doesn't require as much flushing after but we had bleach on hand and are ready to flush many times after)

The question is what would you do? putting the magnesium anode will repeat the sulfur smell process, yet not using an anode will corrode the tank. Do we bite the bullet and use a Powered anode? (http://www.watertechonline.com/replacing-anodes-getting-rid-of-odor/ was the site I read)

If so, where would I find a powered anode to fit a Suburban heater?

ideas/ help appreciated. I read previous forums here on this and have read every solution but am still not knowing what to do with all the answers out there. Thank you (collectively) for your time.

[Dusty_R]

I've installed a few water heaters. In this area I remove the anode rod.
In 1980, give or take a year or so, I installed an oil gun fired AO Smith water heater in our home. Then a year later I replaced the oil gun with an LP gun. I did remove the anode rod when I installed the water heater.
We moved out of that home in the fall of 2012, and sold that home last fall, 2015, and that water heater is still working just fine. There is a water softener there also.

Dusty

[Old-Biscuit]

You can NOT just replace the Suburban Water Heater TANK........replacements are not sold.

You will have to replace entire water heater WHEN the tank corrodes from NO anode rod.

[randallb]

The trick is to have clean water going in to the RV. I use the same set up on my RV as I do on my house well and I never buy bottled water. Everyone else in our area buys bottled water either at the store or from a delivery service. Set up a double 2.5" x 10" filter system with or without a regulator, your choice. In the first filter install a 1 micron spun poly filter and a .5 micron charcoal filter in the second housing. At the house I replace filters monthly, approximately 2900 gallons, and on the RV I remove the old filters when I get home and install new when I leave on the next trip. Filters cost me from $7.00 to $9.00 a pair depending on price fluctuations. After having lived in an area with $100/month water bills even $15.00 for filters is cheap. Good, clean water in to the RV or house eliminates a lot of other issues in a water system. My neighbors ignored their 20+ year old filter system and had to replace their washer, water heater and dishwasher when they were only about 8 years old.

[Country_RVer]

and thanks Lynnmor - your post gave us the heads up to get that fixed as now that I think of it, yes - it wasn't heating high enough. Last thing I want is nightmares about Legionnaire's Disease!

Old-Biscuit - good advice. Appreciated.

[Country_RVer]

Thanks for the replies. I called the RV place that sold us our trailer, as expected, they advised to simply replace the anode. I'm in agreement with prior info from repeated sources that that isn't the answer, as the reaction will continue. I suspect the RV place (which I'll leave unnamed as I'm in general very happy with the trailer and their co.)has to say that as they sell the trailers with Suburban water heaters.
The guy at the RV place, however DID suggest if I wanted answers re: iron in the water, to talk to ---- who deals with that sort of thing. That call was productive: he advised NO you do not want an anode in. (I advised him it was a steel tank/glass(ceramic)coated) and he says we'll get a good long life out of the water heater without the anode, but more buildup so a flush every 6 mo is a good thing to do to get material that had built up out of it.
As far as cleaning up the incoming water from direct water hook up: he says there is no way to change that - am I'm used to finding iron-smelling water in other campgrounds in SK so no big deal. He says they DO have a system to remove iron but it's for a house, and the system is indoors (and my guess is it wouldn't be inexpensive). So that has nothing to do with the well at the campsite.
So thanks for everyone's replies, I'll consider this closed now, and will not put the anode back in. (hey, maybe I'll come back to this forum in a few years and advise the state of corrosion of the water heater, but sounds like it'll be fine).
and thanks, Don R - hey have you retired from "tuna-ing"? (I don't have my piano anymore but curious.) 🙂

[Old-Biscuit]

Lynnmor wrote:
One more thing, you may be dealing with iron bacteria or some other kind. Check the temperature of your hot water and replace the thermostat if necessary. It takes 140 degrees or more to kill bacteria.

Anode rods can be sawed to length, so you can buy aluminum/zinc and cut it as long as possible.

Suburban OEM T-stat is 130*F

140*F OPTIONAL t-stats are available

120V AC 140*F t-stat ------Suburban 232317 for electric element
12V DC 140*F t-stat -------Suburban 232319 for propane



As to the 'barely gone' anode rod........probably straight aluminum vs a mix of aluminum/zinc.
Suburban doesn't offer a alum/zinc rod

Residential anode rods come in magnesium, aluminum and alum/zinc
Any deterioration of rod means it IS working.
Water chemistry plays a big part in how fast a particular material rod will deteriorate

Residential aluminum/zinc rod will be expensive and have to be cut down (9" and throw the other 35" or so of rod away)

Better to try a Suburban aluminum rod with frequent drain/flush routine and not leaving water standing in water heater when not at TT.

The vinegar soak is for AFTER you stop using the well water source or if going to remain at that site for extended periods.
Any Chlorine Bleach will be long gone -----non-issue.

[pianotuna]

Hi SoundGuy,

Wrong. If there are iron bacteria in the water removing the rod makes a huge difference to the usability of the water. No more bad smell.

SoundGuy wrote:
Data in = data out. Crappy data in = crappy data out. Crappy water in = crappy water out. Changing the anode rod, switching from magnesium to aluminum or zinc, or not using one at all, is going to make little difference at all when it's the water that's the source of the problem. :R Obviously, it's not the answer you want to hear but just as obvious it is the answer - better water in. :W

[Lynnmor]

One more thing, you may be dealing with iron bacteria or some other kind. Check the temperature of your hot water and replace the thermostat if necessary. It takes 140 degrees or more to kill bacteria.

Anode rods can be sawed to length, so you can buy aluminum/zinc and cut it as long as possible.

[Country_RVer]

OK - so I had a reply ready but then read Old-Biscuit's...

so: it makes sense BB-TX that after 5 years the alum/zinc was barely gone then it wasn't doing what it should be doing.

AND from SoundGuy yeah, I agree - better water in actually = "very expensive" per Old-Biscuit below you so that may be hard to correct.

so Old-Biscuit, just wondering what you think of BB-TX's info that the alum/zinc was barely gone after 5 years.

Yeah, I've read about the vinegar soaks too. I've also read that vinegar soaks after using chlorine bleach is a no-no, so I think I'll just leave it at the bleach and rinse it all a number of times.

and I'll check with the local RV dealers for opinions too, tomorrow morning, and then pop back in here to see if anything further has come in AND relay what's the most common advice I've found from the local suppliers.

Many thanks you all for your info/advice.. will weight it all with what I'll find tomorrow too.

[Old-Biscuit]

Tough to change quality of water source when it is 'well water'
Filtering the water to get Iron out can be very expensive.

If you that zinc anode rod is 3/4" NPT threads and less than 9" in length it will fit in your Suburban water heater.

Use of a zinc rod and routine drain/flushing of water heater will minimize the sulfur smell
You may need to 'treat water heater' with a vinegar soak AFTER you leave that CG

But as long as you are there using that well water.......zinc and drain/flush

[SoundGuy]

Data in = data out. Crappy data in = crappy data out. Crappy water in = crappy water out. Changing the anode rod, switching from magnesium to aluminum or zinc, or not using one at all, is going to make little difference at all when it's the water that's the source of the problem. :R Obviously, it's not the answer you want to hear but just as obvious it is the answer - better water in. :W

[BB_TX]

My original magnesium rod lasted two years with no odor before it was used up. Replaced it with alum/zinc. After 5 there was no odor until this year. Then odor became pretty bad. But barely any of metal rod gone. That makes me believe it was not doing much sacrificing. Replaced it with another magnesium rod and no odor ..... yet.

The rods are not expensive. I would replace it with another magnesium rod and see if the odor returns. If so, then look at other options.

[Country_RVer]

OK I've found a Canadian location that will sell a Zinc anode rod that is universal for Suburbans (answered my own question) - but thanks anyhow - and thought I'd post this reply in case someone comes back and says they've tried them and for --- reason it doesn't work. or don't buy it because --- (please post)

🙂

[Country_RVer]

Hi, Bruce; that first link I provided in my question indicates aluminum anodes will also react with the water,

it says: "aluminum/zinc alloy anode will solve the problem. The zinc is a key ingredient, since pure aluminum anodes will also reek to high heaven."

However it goes on to mention the types of anodes for home water heaters. Does anyone know if Aluminum/zinc alloy anodes are available for RV's or have tried them?