โFeb-26-2018 01:36 PM
โFeb-27-2018 03:41 PM
โFeb-27-2018 03:28 PM
tommymsw wrote:
AH HA!!! So....
I DO see some DC wires running a few feet under the light switch (going to the LP sensor). If I wire into THAT ground wire, should it work? Or do I need the EXACT ground wire that runs to the lights?
And I have 2 wires for (ground) on the switch. Should I put them BOTH to the ground? Or only one? and what one? IN or OUT? ๐
โFeb-27-2018 02:38 PM
โFeb-27-2018 02:34 PM
Otherwise if you wanted to dim slightly it is possible to add a resistor in series but you will need to know how much voltage the resistor will drop and how much current will be flowing through the resistor
โFeb-27-2018 02:22 PM
Gdetrailer wrote:tommymsw wrote:
So I have LITTLE chance of running a new wire. I have a class A Winnebago and all the wires I see seem to have been run in the walls and then had foam sprayed into the walls. It is REALLY nice for sound and insulation, but not so nice for running new wires!
The LED light I put in are "strip lights". They work GREAT and are dimmable. But looks like I am stuck just using them normal. It is a bummer that they don't have anything with a few (resistors?) in them to lower the voltage. Even if there were just a few levels... Like 3v, 6v, 9v, 12v.
Can you mount the dimmers in the light fixtures?
Might be a bit inconvenient to do so but this way you can dim then when full brightness is not needed and turn them up to daylight levels when needed..
Leave regular switch in place and it will turn the light on/off.
Otherwise if you wanted to dim slightly it is possible to add a resistor in series but you will need to know how much voltage the resistor will drop and how much current will be flowing through the resistor to make sure you use a resistor wattage high enough for the heat dissipated..
If you do the resistor route, don't tell, the anti resistor police on the forum will be whining about all the energy you are wasting and will beat you over the head about it until you change your mind :E
โFeb-27-2018 02:03 PM
tommymsw wrote:
So I have LITTLE chance of running a new wire. I have a class A Winnebago and all the wires I see seem to have been run in the walls and then had foam sprayed into the walls. It is REALLY nice for sound and insulation, but not so nice for running new wires!
The LED light I put in are "strip lights". They work GREAT and are dimmable. But looks like I am stuck just using them normal. It is a bummer that they don't have anything with a few (resistors?) in them to lower the voltage. Even if there were just a few levels... Like 3v, 6v, 9v, 12v.
โFeb-27-2018 10:54 AM
tommymsw wrote:
So I have LITTLE chance of running a new wire. I have a class A Winnebago and all the wires I see seem to have been run in the walls and then had foam sprayed into the walls. It is REALLY nice for sound and insulation, but not so nice for running new wires!
The LED light I put in are "strip lights". They work GREAT and are dimmable. But looks like I am stuck just using them normal. It is a bummer that they don't have anything with a few (resistors?) in them to lower the voltage. Even if there were just a few levels... Like 3v, 6v, 9v, 12v.
โFeb-27-2018 10:21 AM
โFeb-27-2018 05:35 AM
โFeb-27-2018 03:25 AM
โFeb-26-2018 06:20 PM
Gdetrailer wrote:ScottG wrote:Gdetrailer wrote:ScottG wrote:
There are a bunch of them on eBay. Just search for RV led dimmer.
2 Wires?
Not so sure about that unless they are nothing more than a variable resistor.
DC electronics will need at least THREE WIRES in order to work.
Input + from battery
Battery "ground" (-)
Output + (variable 12V DC) to lights
Since OP has only 2 wires to work with they will most likely have to run a battery "ground" (-) to the switch location.
I suspect that the OPs wiring is only Battery + and the switched + that returns to the light fixture and no battery (-) to be had...
They're not just pots and they don't need three wires if they have full 12v coming in because they use that to power an appropriate circuit.
Here are examples:
Simple surface mount
Wall mount led dimmer
I have both of these.
OP said they only have TWO wires.
That means they do not have 12V NEGATIVE GROUND where their switch is.
The item you selected NEEDS the 12V NEGATIVE GROUND in order to work.
Please note, the two terminals marked (V-) in the picture from your link. Those ARE for the 12V NEGATIVE GROUND CONNECTION.
That device WILL NOT WORK without a connection from the 12V NEGATIVE GROUND.
The OP WILL have to run a separate 12V NEGATIVE GROUND to make that or any other dimmer work.
This can be tricky to impossible in a typical trailer wall to fish wires.
โFeb-26-2018 06:10 PM
ScottG wrote:Gdetrailer wrote:ScottG wrote:
There are a bunch of them on eBay. Just search for RV led dimmer.
2 Wires?
Not so sure about that unless they are nothing more than a variable resistor.
DC electronics will need at least THREE WIRES in order to work.
Input + from battery
Battery "ground" (-)
Output + (variable 12V DC) to lights
Since OP has only 2 wires to work with they will most likely have to run a battery "ground" (-) to the switch location.
I suspect that the OPs wiring is only Battery + and the switched + that returns to the light fixture and no battery (-) to be had...
They're not just pots and they don't need three wires if they have full 12v coming in because they use that to power an appropriate circuit.
Here are examples:
Simple surface mount
Wall mount led dimmer
I have both of these.
โFeb-26-2018 05:32 PM
Gdetrailer wrote:ScottG wrote:
There are a bunch of them on eBay. Just search for RV led dimmer.
2 Wires?
Not so sure about that unless they are nothing more than a variable resistor.
DC electronics will need at least THREE WIRES in order to work.
Input + from battery
Battery "ground" (-)
Output + (variable 12V DC) to lights
Since OP has only 2 wires to work with they will most likely have to run a battery "ground" (-) to the switch location.
I suspect that the OPs wiring is only Battery + and the switched + that returns to the light fixture and no battery (-) to be had...
โFeb-26-2018 03:32 PM