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Disconnecting front axle disc brakes

Texas_Two_Stepp
Explorer
Explorer
My 17.5" Michelin tires are experiencing wear on the front axle that indicates skidding or brake lock-up. I have a disc brakes and am wondering how to and how difficult it would be to disconnect the brakes on the front axle. I have about 1,000 miles to home and can deal with the issue much better there.
2015 Duramax 3500 dually 4x4
2013 Excel Winslow 31RSE
TST tire monitor
Magnum MS 2012 inverter/charger
3-135w solar panels
Tristar controller
Trimetric monitor
4-6v Trojan t105 batteries
B & W companion 3000 hitch
17 REPLIES 17

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
Charlie D. wrote:
RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
When I jack up one wheel the other wheel now stays on the ground.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
That is normal in every tandem w/ equalizer,.....providing the equalizer is free, not froze/rusted soild.


X2


No rust - maybe I mis-spoke - some equalizers provide more travel then others - that has been my observation. Yes, the equalizers job includes (trying to) keep both wheels on the ground - hence the name "equalizer".
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.

Charlie_D_
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
Quote:
When I jack up one wheel the other wheel now stays on the ground.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
That is normal in every tandem w/ equalizer,.....providing the equalizer is free, not froze/rusted soild.


X2
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RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Quote:
When I jack up one wheel the other wheel now stays on the ground.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
That is normal in every tandem w/ equalizer,.....providing the equalizer is free, not froze/rusted soild.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
RJsfishin wrote:
Wow, learned something new,..... I always thought that the tandem equalizer keeps the total weight equal on both axles, even when the trailer is unlevel front to rear.

It varies by what you have. My MORRyde IS in my Cougar works significantly better then the standard stuff in my old Cougar. When I jack up one wheel the other wheel now stays on the ground.
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Wow, learned something new,..... I always thought that the tandem equalizer keeps the total weight equal on both axles, even when the trailer is unlevel front to rear.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

randallb
Explorer
Explorer
What is the attitude of the trailer when hooked up and loaded? I am guessing it is nose high which unweights the front axle and places most of the braking responsibility on the rear axle. When you set your controller so you are comfortable with the boost the rear tires are doing most of the work and the fronts are skidding during harder stops. Even weight distribution on the axles is very important for tire wear and stopping efficiency.
Randy

Roger10378
Explorer II
Explorer II
Chris Bryant wrote:
The OP was just trying to get home, not run forever like this.
I would replace the hoses that have been clamped, but I bet you already figured that.


X2 on replacing the hoses. You have probably done damage on the inside of the hose. Replace them and bleed the brakes once you fix the original problem.
2005 Cardinal 30TS
2007 Chevy 2500HD D/A

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Fact,....
If you are paying premiums to an insurance company, they will be forced by law to pay your claim, except in a known case of insurance fraud.
A case of a mistake, poor judgment, or even negligence, can be a good enuff reason for cancellation,....after they pay off.

And if someone rear ends you, I don't think lacking brakes would have anything to do w/ the case.

Many moons ago, I watched a guy that had a rear wheel cyl leaking brake fluid all over, crawl under there, broke the steel line off at the wheel cyl, borrowed a hammer from the filling station there, and smashed the end of the line completely flat against the differential housing, crawled out, and said, "there, that one will never leak again !:)
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
The OP was just trying to get home, not run forever like this.
I would replace the hoses that have been clamped, but I bet you already figured that.
-- Chris Bryant

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I did not install front (S-cam) air brakes on Quicksilver due to absurd cost. Most 10-wheel tractors do not have front brakes either.

But what is being proposed in this post gives me the willies. First of all, if someone rear-ends you and their underwriter finds out you disconnected your front brakes, you is screwed. if your underwriter discovers it, they will most likely deny a claim then deny coverage. Goodbye everything you own. A lawyer would have a heart attack due to ecstasy in a courtroom litigating a case against you. I went through hell with Quicksilver over this with my underwriter. I had to PROVE that chassis was available from the manufacturer with the same type, brand and configuration of brakes I had retrofitted.

If authorities find altered or modified or disabled brakes you in a heap o trouble boy. Please keep it in mind. I exaggerate not...

Texas_Two_Stepp
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the suggestions. I wound up using small pair vice grips and clamping the rubber hoses leading to the front axle brakes.
2015 Duramax 3500 dually 4x4
2013 Excel Winslow 31RSE
TST tire monitor
Magnum MS 2012 inverter/charger
3-135w solar panels
Tristar controller
Trimetric monitor
4-6v Trojan t105 batteries
B & W companion 3000 hitch

Randu
Explorer
Explorer
I would start by having brakes bled really well. Maybe air in lines or caliper to rear axle but none in front. This could cause delay on rear calipers. Randu
2017 Chevy 3500HD SRW Crew LTZ
4x4,Duramax, Allison.
2017 Jayco North Point 381DLQS
Previous: 2000 Travel Supreme
2005 Newmar Kountry Star
2008 Mobile Suites 36TK3

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
I would just turn the controller down a bit. Brake more gradually.
This is the safest way to get home. JMHO.

X2, and you can still lock up all four manually if you need an emergency stop.
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.

drcook
Explorer
Explorer
It seems the OP has it handled as posted on another forum

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f116/shocks-266051.html
2004.5 2500HD CCSB Duramax/Allison - was an Overheater fixed it!!! Bilsteins, Banks stuff, Hellwig Sway bars front and back
2010 Crossroads Cruiser 30QBX

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