โMay-21-2015 07:13 AM
โJun-26-2016 07:52 AM
westend wrote:How will I know if there's not enough air movement in the back of the fridge?Fridge will not cool down to safe operational temperature.
โJun-25-2016 10:26 AM
How will I know if there's not enough air movement in the back of the fridge?Fridge will not cool down to safe operational temperature.
โJun-25-2016 10:06 AM
โJun-25-2016 10:04 AM
MrWizard wrote:
Buying new?
Why not forget the LP and buy a 12vdc powered compressor fridge
Like solar home and boats use Dan Foss DC powered variable speed compressor about 4 amps aka 48 Watts when running
No external venting required and way less power use, just need air circulation interior of cabinet and Van
โJun-24-2016 09:48 PM
โJun-24-2016 06:32 PM
โMay-22-2015 06:08 AM
โMay-21-2015 08:13 PM
โMay-21-2015 07:59 PM
jrnymn7 wrote:
Venting from the side wall would work fine... mine does, and so do hundreds of thousands of other rv's. And you could, theoretically, end up drawing trapped exhaust pipe heated air up thru the cabinet.
But yes, the fuel filler is a logistics/safety issue, for sure. Any way you can install the fridge away from that area?
โMay-21-2015 12:57 PM
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Do you have the fridge installation manual for your model?
Follow the 'clearances' closely.
If installing lower vent bottom of it should be flush with floor. (Don't need that floor vent)
Then install a upper vent in side wall (just like lower one)
Bottom of top vent should be level with top of fridge.
There should NOT be any clearance between top of fridge and cabinet....Zero clearance otherwise you create a dead air space
HERE is some Ventilation Installation information.
Proper clearances -------better cooling
โMay-21-2015 12:43 PM
โMay-21-2015 09:10 AM
โMay-21-2015 08:59 AM
jrnymn7 wrote:
I hear ya! My conversion is still a work in progress. Spent at least two years planning things, before movinging forward, and even then...
โMay-21-2015 08:50 AM