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DIY 3 way refrigerator venting (drawing)

evy
Explorer
Explorer
I'm working on my DIY conversion build out of a 2010 Ford extended E250.

I've red a lot of articles here and there about 3 way refrigerator venting, now I can't do the big two gravity vents/access door like they normally do.

But Here's another way that should provide even more air movement behind the fridge.

Using three 80mm PC fans (120cfm/0.54amps total), plugged to the fridge (I don't know how yet but I know there's a circuit especially for that) every time the fridge turns on the fans are activated.

I have never done this before, please tell me if you see anything wrong with this concept, thanks!

_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)
21 REPLIES 21

evy
Explorer
Explorer
westend wrote:
How will I know if there's not enough air movement in the back of the fridge?
Fridge will not cool down to safe operational temperature.


Just to make sure I understand, you mean that I will decide if the inside of the fridge is cold enough to refrigerate the food? Using a thermometer for example.
_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)

westend
Explorer
Explorer
How will I know if there's not enough air movement in the back of the fridge?
Fridge will not cool down to safe operational temperature.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

evy
Explorer
Explorer
How will I know if there's not enough air movement in the back of the fridge?
Is there a high temp warning light in the panel? An error code?
_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)

evy
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
Buying new?
Why not forget the LP and buy a 12vdc powered compressor fridge
Like solar home and boats use Dan Foss DC powered variable speed compressor about 4 amps aka 48 Watts when running
No external venting required and way less power use, just need air circulation interior of cabinet and Van


Actually the pictures you see are from my installation so it's a bit late for going with your proposition ๐Ÿ˜•
Thanks anyway
_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Buying new?
Why not forget the LP and buy a 12vdc powered compressor fridge
Like solar home and boats use Dan Foss DC powered variable speed compressor about 4 amps aka 48 Watts when running
No external venting required and way less power use, just need air circulation interior of cabinet and Van
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

evy
Explorer
Explorer
So here's a quick update.

I have to add some baffles here and there, sheat metal around the lower opening,

The main concern is having my lower inlet 10" away from the fuel filler, the law says that it should be at 36"
So here's my two options :
Option no.1 : seal the lower vent so no air goes through and use it as an access door only, and only use only the bottom openings for the air inlet.
Option no.2 : add some sort of 12v time delay switch, set it to 15minutes, add a magnetic sensor (home alarm system type) to the fuel filler, so when you open the door to pour fuel in the fridge is automatically turned off, and it turns back on by itself 15minutes later or so. this way I could keep the lower inlet open for air movement as well as the bottom ones.
Now I don't know much about magnetic sensor and time delay switchs yet, maybe some one out there can help me out.













_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, with that short of a fridge, the side exhaust vent will work. My fridge is much taller, and a side vent was not possible (due to the curvature of the wall-to-roof area). The important thing is you include that "baffle" at the top to help direct air out. (see page 3 of old-biscuit's link). I'd still consider a roof vent though, if it's a viable option.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I'd try to get the intake air up from the bottom of chassis and as far away from the fuel filler as possible. Any flammable gas will tend to sink and possibly, pool in a confined space. The last thing you want is to pull flammable vapor into the fridge space.

Old-Biscuit probably has the ventilation nailed. If you install a top-mount vent, a fan probably wouldn't be necessary but many do actively push air to increase efficiency.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

nineoaks2004
Explorer
Explorer
jrnymn7 wrote:
Venting from the side wall would work fine... mine does, and so do hundreds of thousands of other rv's. And you could, theoretically, end up drawing trapped exhaust pipe heated air up thru the cabinet.

But yes, the fuel filler is a logistics/safety issue, for sure. Any way you can install the fridge away from that area?




Most Pop Ups vent out the side and mine looks almost like yours, I hook up two 110 v fans that I took out of Traffic signal Cabinets and installed a switch to turn them on,they run when the fridge is on in warmer weather and I have the option to turn them on in cooler weather when I notice the temp climbing in the reefer. Your design seems to look good and should work well
By the time you learn the rules of life
You're to old to play the game

evy
Explorer
Explorer
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Do you have the fridge installation manual for your model?

Follow the 'clearances' closely.

If installing lower vent bottom of it should be flush with floor. (Don't need that floor vent)
Then install a upper vent in side wall (just like lower one)

Bottom of top vent should be level with top of fridge.

There should NOT be any clearance between top of fridge and cabinet....Zero clearance otherwise you create a dead air space


HERE is some Ventilation Installation information.

Proper clearances -------better cooling


Thanks for the info!
_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Do you have the fridge installation manual for your model?

Follow the 'clearances' closely.

If installing lower vent bottom of it should be flush with floor. (Don't need that floor vent)
Then install a upper vent in side wall (just like lower one)

Bottom of top vent should be level with top of fridge.

There should NOT be any clearance between top of fridge and cabinet....Zero clearance otherwise you create a dead air space


HERE is some Ventilation Installation information.

Proper clearances -------better cooling
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
No problem, I'm the same way. Once I've done something, then I'm more confident. Until then, I question and re-question (if that's a word) pretty much every decision.

Some surprises were happy ones, others not so much :(. For me it was all about functionality and comfort. I live in mine 6-7 months a year, so it had to meet my everyday needs. Now I'm working on extending it's usability to 8-9 months... Heating and Power being the two major challenges.

evy
Explorer
Explorer
jrnymn7 wrote:
I hear ya! My conversion is still a work in progress. Spent at least two years planning things, before movinging forward, and even then...


This is all new to me, I have never even owned a camper, but I like projects and challenges. But in this case I lack confidence, before cutting anything it takes for ever!! lol
I have to think and re-think + measure and re-measure then ask for approval on forums like this one. lol
But hey things are finally starting to take shape.

Thanks for the advice!
_______________________________________________
DIY conversion build, extended 2010 Ford 5.4L E250 + high top, from Montreal Canada, new to all this so please be patient and clear with me (never built or camped in a van yet)

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
I hear ya! My conversion is still a work in progress. Spent at least two years planning things, before movinging forward, and even then...