Dometic 2608 Freezer trying, fridge not cold

[Toyoda]

1990 Fleetwood Jambo.
Dometic RM2608
Im the second owner, had her for ~10 years. No issues with the fridge until the last trip. Fridge used to freeze food on max thermo and on LP.

We were on LP and the fridge wouldn't cool down, freezer was kinda cold. Motorhome was level.

Got home and cleaned out the burner and boiler, banged on the boiler to get any loose debris out. Great blue flame, but no change on the temperature.

Wired 120V directly to the heater, fridge has been running a little over 24 hours, down to 65*.

I just put a solar fan on the condenser to promote airflow, that should help not hurt.

I just took the fridge vent off so it has maximum airflow (solar fan is also working). I took my leaf blower and blew out from the ground level up, nothing major just a little dust. I can see up through the condenser when looking in from the ground.
Motorhome is level.

Any thoughts?
I may pull the fridge and try laying it on its side/upside down to dislodge a possible restriction. Hoping someone has a good idea that works so I don't have to pull the fridge.

[SidecarFlip]

Toyoda wrote:
I want to be able to use LP to run the fridge when were out. We don't go places with hook ups. The compressor fridge needs constant power, that will kill my battery (we also camp year round so I can't be guaranteed that I will have sun).

I also like the idea of getting more space in my fridge. I have 2 growing boys....

I pulled the fridge out this morning and am trying to burp it. I'm going to see if that can buy me some time.

Not correct. A Waeco or Danfoss compressor fridge is a duty cycle fridge, that is, it only draws power when cooling is graduated which is what makes them so efficient. I have one and it might draw 3 amps when cooling down, but once at temp, it draws about as much as your absorbtion fridge does.

You are mixing a conventional compressor fridge with a Danfoss. 2 different things entirely.

[Toyoda]

It looks like a rebuilt unit would be about 2/3 the price of a new fridge, I also need a new ignitor (thats been out for awhile). The wife would rather go new, and I can get a fridge with 1.5 more cu ft (with a little work to fit it).

I understand burping is just a band aid and if it works, it can fail again at any time ( 5 minutes or 5 years kinda thing).

[dougrainer]

1. Burping CANNOT dislodge the blockage. It is as hard as a weld and attached like a weld. I tell customers, if you had a blockage in your Arteries and you were able to "knock" it loose, would you be happy knowing that debris is now flowing thru your blood system. Where it will eventually block something else? Then you die?:B
2. Rebuilt cooling units, they cut out the top area tubing to remove the blockage, weld a new tube in place and then charge with Ammonia. Rebuilts are the way to go if you do the work yourself. Doug

[Toyoda]

I want to be able to use LP to run the fridge when were out. We don't go places with hook ups. The compressor fridge needs constant power, that will kill my battery (we also camp year round so I can't be guaranteed that I will have sun).

I also like the idea of getting more space in my fridge. I have 2 growing boys....

I pulled the fridge out this morning and am trying to burp it. I'm going to see if that can buy me some time.

[SidecarFlip]

Don';t waste your money Replace it with a Danfoss or Waeco compressor fridge. What I'll do when mine poops out, if it ever does.

You are gonna pay as much or more for a rebuilt or 'Amish' cooling unit as you will for a new Dometic Compressor fridge. West Marine has them in all sizes.

Only way to go.

[Toyoda]

Dometic replacement chart shows the RM3962 should fit.

[Toyoda]

I know it bypasses all controls, I wanted to verify the cooling unit either worked or didn't. I figured it was bad, just looking to cover the bases before buying a new fridge.

I just checked it. Its 100 outside and the fridge is 80.

Is rebuilt as good as new? I have read lots of conflicting info on the rebuilt units.

[midnightsadie]

you could have it rebuilt. about $600. bucks

[Old-Biscuit]

Wired 120V directly to the heater, fridge has been running a little over 24 hours, down to 65*.


That test bypasses all controls and forces cooling unit to continuously cool....UNLESS cooling unit is BAD

YOURS is BAD


1990 vintage......28 yrs. Pretty dang good service
But it is done.
28 yrs of accumulative damage from sodium chromate turning to crystals and plating out on the inside of tubing.
Damage is Permanent.

YES...you can bang on it, roll it around, flip it end to end etc and MAYBE get a bit more circulation of coolant but the crystals only move they do NOT go back into solution.
Band-Aid affect at best