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Dometic Fridge Tech Question

Sandrider2
Explorer
Explorer
Last year I added a couple computer fans to help ventilate the fridge compartment. Over the last year I have learned more about these fridges, and have come to realize that the location of these fans may be doing more harm than good. Parts of the fridge are heated, by burning propane or electric elements.
I am wondering if someone who knows how they work on a tech level could look at a couple pictures of the fans and tell me if the location is actually helping me, or perhaps if I should move them to a more effective location.
The first image shows everything, each image after that is the same perspective, just closer in, from the large fan on the door, to inside where there is a smaller fan pointing up to help air flow in that direction. The door fan is directing outside air in. The small fan is on the right side, the combustion tube is on the opposite left side (viewed from the outside looking in).





11 REPLIES 11

jerryjay11
Explorer
Explorer
If you can hear a gurgle noise when turned on and no cooling is taking place then you'll need to replace the ref or just the cooling unit. You shouldn't hear any gurgling at all.

Hamrgh9571
Explorer
Explorer
I have a dometic rm2652 fridge. I bought this camper thinking the fridge worked.. 1 week befor we left i turned it on.. Lights work but not cooling on electric or gas. Checked all fuses. Good. Checked volts on 110 and 12 volt. All good. I buped it. Can hear the fluid inside. Burped about 5 times.. Waited 2 hours and started it up.. Still nothing. Changed the thermister. Back gets hot. Help. Is my fridge shot? Thanks Bobby

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Hamrgh9571:
Does the stack get warm?
Check for voltage to the 120 volt element coiming out of circuit board.
Try connecting the 120 volt element straight to an extension cord to see if stack and cooling unit heats up.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Hamrgh9571
Explorer
Explorer
I have a dometic rm2652 fridge. I bought this camper thinking the fridge worked.. 1 week befor we left i turned it on.. Lights work but not cooling on electric or gas. Checked all fuses. Good. Checked volts on 110 and 12 volt. All good. I buped it. Can hear the fluid inside. Burped about 5 times.. Waited 2 hours and started it up.. Still nothing. Changed the thermister. Back gets hot. Help. Is my fridge shot? Thanks Bobby

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Mandalay Parr wrote:
Mine has worked great for 12 years without any fans.



Here is a general tip. An example...

Samsung Electric stick and brick refrigerator. Yes, Freon.

3 years of running without a fan

3 years of running with a fan

One person. Ambient temp a few degrees warmer with the fan.

12.11 kWh without the fan monthly

11.08 kWH with the fan

I figure you can do your own math and arrive at your own conclusion.

Gimme a break. The fan was measured too. 6 watts 24/7

The fan was placed beneath the condenser blowing upward.

Ambient averages 24.8 day
20.5 night.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

I added a mask and twin computer fans that are thermostatically controlled just under the vent cap. This brought time to first cycle down to 6 hours.

It had the side benefit of restricting air flow in the winter time to help the fridge from freezing.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
You do NOT need air blowing up thru the Cooling unit coils. What you need is cooler fresh air THRU the upper Condenser FINS. As another poster stated, the GAP between the upper fins and the sidewall needs to be ZERO to 1 inch. You want to force all air THRU the condenser fins to remove the heat. So, just blowing UP from the bottom may not be the best way. I cannot see your pics. What the Refer makers do, is install the additional fans right below the upper condenser and that forces the air thru the fins and up and out the upper vent. Doug

rejesterd
Explorer
Explorer
What makes you think you need extra fans in the first place? You said you wanted to help ventilate the fridge compartment, but why? The vent on the side of your RV should be all that's needed.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Check the distance between the cooling unit and the exterior wall. This should be closed up to less then an inch.
Check the top of the refer above the cooling unit. Many have a void that needs to be closed up. I used a piece of metal duct. The curved portion forces the hot air out the top vent as the vent is located toward the outer wall.
I tried fans blowing through the cooling unit but did not achieve good results. Closing air space worked far better.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Mandalay_Parr
Explorer
Explorer
Mine has worked great for 12 years without any fans.
Jerry Parr
Full-time
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horton333
Explorer
Explorer
Sandrider2 wrote:
Last year I added a couple computer fans to help ventilate the fridge compartment. Over the last year I have learned more about these fridges, and have come to realize that the location of these fans may be doing more harm than good. Parts of the fridge are heated, by burning propane or electric elements.
I am wondering if someone who knows how they work on a tech level could look at a couple pictures of the fans and tell me if the location is actually helping me, or perhaps if I should move them to a more effective location.
The first image shows everything, each image after that is the same perspective, just closer in, from the large fan on the door, to inside where there is a smaller fan pointing up to help air flow in that direction. The door fan is directing outside air in. The small fan is on the right side, the combustion tube is on the opposite left side (viewed from the outside looking in).






I can't tell from the pictures which way the fans are blowing, and it appears the large fan is at the bottom. There needs to be a chimney, with cold air coming in the bottom and the hot air exiting the top. Most people place fans in the top vent blowing out to aid the natural effect and that is likely more effective than trying to force from the bottom. Holding you hand over the vent at the top and feeling how much hot air is exiting will tell you a lot. It should be noticeably warm air moving.
My OEM install has a single 4" muffin fan at the top, I thought it would not help much especially as the fridge is in a slide and there is no baffle but it seems to move a fair bit of hot air. The one fan you have on the door looks large, it should be helping a fair bit. Even a small fan with no baffle moves a fair bit of hot air as opposed to it rising of it's own accord.

As another hint, most people find as much or even more benefit to increasing the air flow inside the fridge. This one is a higher end unit. There are cheaper ones, and it only takes a very small amount of air movement over the fins at the top of the fridge to make a significant difference. I made my own from 3 5 volt fans out of a laptop cooler, in series they work well and draw a tiny amount off the 12 volt and you don't have the worry about turning the battery operated one off in the self contained ones.
......................................

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