Hi
This one is driving me nuts and that's not a long drive these days!!!
We bought a new to us DP a few months ago. Not long after an outlet shorted violently and took out many of the electronics including inverter jacks and the fridge. The Dometic RM1350 4 door did work when we got it except for the auto door locks which had been disabled. After the meltdown the fridge did not work at all.
We had the mobile tech that fixed the electrical problem check the fridge. He said it needed a board and since we were leaving on vacation he suggested we should replace the board. No improvement
When we got to our destination we got a tech to come and look at it. He said he would come back with and a igniter and he showed me that it was not sparking. He would bring a new board too just in case.His office then called and said that the parts weren't available and they would not be returning.
I ordered an igniter and a spare board and replacing the igniter made the gas work.
I replaced the switch board up top and the LED board because I wasn't sure I was getting the tests right. That did not do it.
I tested the wire harness between the boards.
I checked the DC input to the lower board.
I checked for AC at the outlets and at the lugs supplying the lower board.
I checked the thermistor in the stack.
I checked the heating element for correct resistance.
I checked the 3a, 5a and AC fuse.I checked the ends of the cables for bent pins of bad connections.
The service manual says that if there is DC coming from the upper board on the orange, green and black wires and there is AC at terminals J5 and J6 but no AC going to the heaters on J6 and J7 the board must be replaced because it is not seeing AV coming in. I replaced the board again. Still no change.
I am in the process of checking every item and connections for continuity or power and am trying to learn enough about the electronics to understand it. I am certain that either there is something that causes the lower board to shut down the AC, perhaps a safety or there is something that damages every board that I put in.
Has anyone had experience with this situation or know of anything that would cause it? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
These parts are not necessary but might be interesting. Stop here if bored.
I have just now made jumpers to connect the AC directly to the heaters. If I shut off the gas and the igniter it will work on AC. The cooling in this fridge is very weak to begin with and, here in the Keys it cannot get the temps below 38f fridge/5f freezer overnight with an outdoor low of 80f. I can't use this up North because it might get too cold though and damage something.I still have to get it fixed. This is just temporary.
I had removed this fridge from the slide to do an annual maintenance including cleaning the flue and replacing the baffle. The burner was cleaned and better fans installed on the back. The fan thermostat was changed and the thermistor above the burner was tested. I corrected a terrible install by adding rigid insulation where the gaps had allowed heat around and above the fridge. I taped large gaps in the outer shell of the fridge.
Kahoona
Just think of it as a boat except that it is the top that needs to be waterproof.
