Dometic RM2682 won't come on

[fowlthing]

Can't get the lights on the control panel to come on, or for the refrig to work.

All three fuses on the back are in good shape and test continuity.

I removed the control panel and do not show any power to it.

Could the heating element be the issue is it more likely the control panel or something else? Any help would be appreciated. I did touch the fuse on the control board and got zapped so there is juice there

Thanks in advance

Grant

[DiskDoctr]

Doug helped me when we were disconnecting from shore power to leave for a long planned trip earlier this yeaer and couldn't get my fridge to light. An appreciation I cannot fully express 😉

While you're in the back there, check to see if you have ANY yellow residue on the back of the fridge, in the vertical pipe or burner, etc.

If you do, STOP. The cooling units can fail and if they overheat while leaking, it can catch fire.

If not...probably not a big deal. Check it occasionally for this yellow residue.

Happy Camping!

[D_E_Bishop]

Doug is a godsend for a lot more than just you, myself included.

[56Jeff]

I agree with checking the 12 volt inlet power. during some repairs, that had zero to do with electrical, nor the fridgeator, Some Jackleg at my dealer removed the plastic grate on the outside, and pulled 1 of the 2 leads off the control board. If there is no 12v supply, the fridge is totally dead.

[fowlthing]

Rest the switch, it works great.

dougrainer is my hero.

Thanks, I really appreciate people like you

[SidecarFlip]

SidecarFlip wrote:
Check your 12 volt incoming power before anything else.

Flat house battery = no work.

[SidecarFlip]

Check your 12 volt incoming power before anything else.

[dougrainer]

1. It takes 12 volt power to operate the controls
2. You got "zapped" because you touched the 120 volt fuse
3. NO power usually means the tstat(Limit) switch on the burner flue cover has tripped. If it trips, there is NO 12 volt power to the Main control board.
4. Check for 12 volt power there. Doug