drilling roof for solar ...

[johnm1]

My camper is in winter storage so I can't look at the roof and I have a question on running the wires down to the charge controller.

Our fridge vents through the side wall so I don't have a roof vent to use. Obviously I have holding tank vents but I don't know where they are in relation to where the panels will be vs where the charge controller will be.

My question is ... it seems that everyone is afraid of drilling through the roof to run the wires from the combiner box to the charge controller. I understand water leaks are a campers enemy, but with the sealing tech out there, if done correctly, is this really an issue?

Am I missing something?

[TechWriter]

Colo Native wrote:
Heres what I did. Lots of Dicor

I used a couple of those plastic junction boxes. I found that in a couple of years the sun warps the cover and destroys the rubber gasket.

Try one of these:

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Do it the expert way...

Purchase a through-deck kit from a Marine store or chandlers. UV proof plastic. Decades lifespan. All work done from above. No sandwich both-sides nightmares. Capable of handling swamping.

I've done a dozen and they are incredibly forgiving - easy to install and boy do they ever last. Quicksilver has had one since 1988.

For sure West Marine, has them and they are listed in their online catalog.

[ctilsie242]

I have seen some solar panels using mounts that solely used adhesive. That might be an option as well.

[johnm1]

Those are all great ideas and is what I will be doing when I get to this project (hopefully this year). I especially like the idea of going up (from the inside), vs down (from the outside).

[CA_Traveler]

To me a drill or hole saw is blind drilling but scope out your project.

I used a 3/4" hole saw INSIDE on the ceiling being careful to just cut the ceiling. I then had visibility and probing access to the roof. Checked for wires etc and then drilled up through the roof with a small drill - note you may need a longer drill. After the wiring was completed the ceiling hole was sealed. Removing ceiling fixtures like lights, speakers, etc can also provide insight as to what to expect.

[TechWriter]

As one who has drilled way too many holes in his RV, instead of using a drill, I suggest using a hole saw like this:



A hole saw allows you to drill slowly and watch where you're going -- and avoid hitting wires, etc.

[CA_Traveler]

I drilled lots of holes for the panels and wires. Not a problem - sealed with Dicor. Also a larger hole for a cell antenna.

My main concern was the shortest distance and no visible wires inside. I used a ceiling to floor cabinet. Removed the cabinet inside side panels (brads and glue - came right out) ran the wires and reattached the panels with screws for any future access.

[corvettekent]

I used a 3/4" PVC conduit and elbow to run my wires in sealed with Dicor. Three years and no leaks.

[Colo_Native]

Heres what I did. Lots of Dicor

[hedge]

My fridge was close but I considered drilling a hole and using a cable entry plate, I wouldn't have hesitated.

Of course you have to hope you don't hit some other wiring such as the feed for the a/c but with some looking around you can usually gleem how they ran the wires.

[RJsfishin]

I don't hesitate for a second to drill any hole where needed. Even if mistakes are made, or different sized panels are replaced, a blob of Dicor blobbed in any hole,...that hole will never pass water in a hunerd years,...that hole is history !!
For those that think a few Dicored holes is going to ruin resale value, well, there is no hope for that kind of mentality anyway !

[donn0128]

No. Proper sealing is all about thought. Think about how to stop water intrusion. Plan how to stop water, and do it.