DSI Fault

[rockcandymounta]

While trying to figure out what is wrong with my furnace not wanting to come on. I noticed a red light in the DSI panel that says DSI fault. Would that make it so that the furnace or hot water would not come on? If there is a fault how can it be corrected?

[enblethen]

If you can post the make and exact model of water heater

[wa8yxm]

I had that problem on my Attwwood heater if cold it took multiple re-tries before it would light.. Finally it refused to light at all. new control board fixed it.

[road-runner]

enblethen wrote:
It may take 5 or 6 times igniting water heater before sufficient gas gets there.

That's exactly how my Atwood water heater behaves. I almost always have to recycle the switch after the 3rd automatic try, and it's usually lit before having to recycle the switch a 2nd time. It does actually light on the 1st or 2nd try, but the flame isn't sensed and it shuts down. If I haven't used any propane at all for more than a couple of days, I always run the cooktop burners for a little bit first.

[enblethen]

It may take 5 or 6 times igniting water heater before sufficient gas gets there.
You might check the gap on the ignitor.

[rockcandymounta]

I replaced the batteries which showed bad when tested. I now have heat. No hot water on gas though. I turned on the gas at the panel and went outside. I could hear the solenoid activate, then no spark. So, I suspect that the control module may be bad. Not sure if there's any way to test. Hot water does work on the electric side. So, we will continue to our destination and do some more work on it when there.

Thanks for all the ideas

[enblethen]

TV is tow vehicle. You should get a similar increase in voltage at trailer batteries when vehicle is running.
Some GM vehicles need to have a dummy relay replaced with a real one. Some GM vehicles must have wire connected under the hood. Most Fords are good to go.

[wa8yxm]

rockcandymountain wrote:
While trying to figure out what is wrong with my furnace not wanting to come on. I noticed a red light in the DSI panel that says DSI fault. Would that make it so that the furnace or hot water would not come on? If there is a fault how can it be corrected?

That is one of the easier questions to answer (What triggers the light)

The furnace has a flame sensor (A thermocouple) it may also be igniter spark rod. IF the furnace lights and works normally this rod gets quite hot and starts sending current.. or generating about 0.48 volts (And the current that results from that voltage sent to the control board)

IF the control board does not sense that voltage and current then FAULT (it tries 3 times then goes to fault)

NOW what could cause that to happen. that's a much harder question.. For this you need to step out and remove the outside panel. turn the circuit breaker/switch atop the blower housing OFF and have then set the T-Stat high enough to call for heat.

Outside turn switch on.. You should hear the blower start up and then you may hear the gas valve click, there will be a change in the WOOSH sound as gas flows. And you should hear the snap shap of the ignighter followed by FLAME ON.. If this does not happen.. Post what does and we will continue.

If it does happen. then it will flame off, on off on off and the fault light comes on

Step one is clean the sensor rod. also make sure the burner is coming on strong. If this does work pull the control board to an RV dealer who can test it. I recommend replacement with Dinosaur Board boards.

Way better built.

[rockcandymounta]

So, we got to our next stop. I did two voltage tests. 1 was to check the battery voltage without shore power..13.1 then I plugged shore power in and it said 13.7. That should tell me that the charging system of the rig is working. TV? I guess that's short for tow vehicle.

I have taken the batteries out, will have them tested. If they show good, then its back to the drawing board. If the are bad, I'll buy new ones.

Stay tuned

[Old-Biscuit]

YES...Low DC Voltage could be issue if on battery Only

If connected to Shore Power then Converter would supply DC System Demands and charge/maintain battery

Easy enough to check......Voltmeter

[enblethen]

I did not see what your TV is. Have you verified that the trailer battery system is getting charged from the TV?
Should have asked in my previous post!

[enblethen]

Yes, However if your TV is running that should give enough boost to get them working. Don't kill your TV battery! Use this to insure it is not something else. Don't rely on it for solution.

[rockcandymounta]

I am currently on the road between nightly stops. A thought came to mind. Battery condition. I am pretty sure the batteries in the RV are close to being shot. I am replacing them as soon as I get to Barstow. I know that if I try to use the auto leveling feature without being connected to shore power, i get a low voltage error soon after the levelers have started working.

If my batteries are not providing enough volts, could that make the ignitors not function properly? Also, if the fan in the furnace isn't spinning at the proper speed (due to low battery) then the furnace will not light?

Im thinking that could be the case. However I am going to replace the batteries first since the rig is a 2016 ands I haven't replaced the before.

[Old-Biscuit]

DSI Fault......
That has nothing to do with furnace --- it is a Fault Indicator for the Water Heater
Water Heater makes 3x to light off/PROVE it lit. After 3rd failed attempt to establish a flame it locks out and throws the DSI Fault Light so Owner has a visual indication that water heater failed

Furnace not firing up and running..simialr
3X to light flame/prove it light and then lockout with a ERROR code on the furnace CIRCUIT Board
RED Solid....Internal board failure
1X Flashing .....Limit switch/Airflow (fan not running/sail switch not closing/overheating)
2X Flashing .....Flame Sensing Fault (flame lit but failed to PROVE -electrode/ground issue)
3X Flashing .....Ignition Lockout (flame didn't light...gas valve/DC power)



Stove top burners......turn all on HIGH
Are Flames BLUE and same height...stay same height as you light others burners?

Let run.........
LP Reg has to have demand and establish flow when turning system on after period of non use
Cylinders OPD valves should be SLOWLY opened when first valving in for service
*Crack OPD open and listen for CLICK...then shortly afterwards should hear 2nd CLICK (That is the Excess Flow Device Inside the ACME Nut tripping and then resetting)
After second CLICK fully open the OPD

Water heater/furnace/fridge all have flame proving circuits and WILL require several start attempts to fully establish propane flow to each one of them
Stove top burners is easy due to NO flame proving used...open burner knop and light the flame.....piezo/lighter/electronic spark

[dedmiston]

For me, the DSI fault always points to a supply problem. My fridge alarm is usually my canary in the coal mine, but sometimes the water heater won't ignite even when fridge & stove are functioning fine.

My personal solution is to reboot the gas lines. I'll light a stove burner and then shut off the propane valve. After the burner burns all the LP, I shut off the burner, turn off the fridge, turn the fridge back on, quickly go back outside to the propane tank and slowly reopen the valve.

The fridge usually reignites by the time I get back inside, and I light the stove again for proof of fuel. With those two established, I turn off the stove and then turn the water heater back on.

It always works for me. And then my wife asks me what the heck I'm doing, and I just tell her "nothing" and "everything's fine".