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electrical problems

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
Having electrical issues after loaning out trailer for a week. AC doesn't work, refridgerater works only on gas, sparks blowing out of converter. Opened converter because I could see debris behind the fan. Both capaciters were split open with the contents laying all over. While checking things out I got a scare when I was checking the neutral bar. I'm no electrician but I don't believe the white wire going to the neutral bar should read 120v. Red wire going to breaker is 120v. Black wire going to next breaker is 120v. Ground wire to grounding bar is fine. If I just plug in with 120v cable its fine. It's when I plug in with the 220v 30 amp cable that things get ugly. How can the neutral wire get hot when plugged in with 220v?
33 REPLIES 33

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Simple:

30 amp RV: one hot, one neutral, one ground

50 amp RV: two hots (240 VAC between hots), one neutral, one ground
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

red31
Explorer
Explorer
While electrician was counting breakers for my new panel with added TT30, he added 2 for the TT30! I piped up and show him the 125v markings etal. They see the big ole outlet/plug and assume wrong.

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
scout3351 wrote:
not feeling real positive about this. New converter on the way. Electrician called.

Even electricians who should know better have wired 30 amp RV outlets wrong. Make sure he knows what he is doing.

All you need to know about RV electric, 30 and 50 amp.

ajriding
Explorer II
Explorer II
ouch. I did not think it was possible to use adapters and have it wired wrong...

With 120 (30 amp) you have 120 on the HOT side and noting on the NEUTRAL side.
With 240 (50 amp) you have 120 on the HOT side and an opposite 120 on the NEUTRAL side; together they double the voltage.

This is why the plugs look different, so you do not plug a 120 device into a 240 outlet.
The adapters are meant to isolate the 120 opposite voltage so it is not used in a 120 application.
In a 50 amp camper you have an A and a B circuit, so almost like two separate electrical systems in the camper to allow you to power up multiple electrical hog devices. One circuit, A , is the 120 voltage, and the other, B, is the opposite voltage. So, from the circuit breaker all the voltage goes out as 120, never 240. I guess you could have a 240 outlet but that would be wired specially and have a special 240 plug like you house clothes drier.

If this is confusing, then think of it as water. With 120 you have a garden hose blowing 120 gallons per minute into an empty pipe so the water flows at 120 gpm. With 240 you have a hose blowing 120 into a pipe that has a vacuum sucking at 120gpm, so you are pushing and pulling at the same time. The analogy breaks down a little here, but imagine that together they make the water flow out at 240 gpm together- where with just the one it only flows at 120gpm.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
scout3351 wrote:
not feeling real positive about this. New converter on the way. Electrician called.

1. Converter Capacitors BLOWN===== 220 to your RV which is a NO NO
2. ASK your electrician IF he is familiar with RV 120 voltage and wiring. IF NOT, do NOT hire him. Find a qualified Electrician that knows RV 120 wiring.
3. ASK your electrician a few questions to determine his qualification
1. ON RV 50 amp service what should the LINE voltage be between the 2 HOT legs? Answer---DOUBLE the line voltage---240 volts
2. IF ON 50 amp service what should the LINE voltage be between EACH HOT leg and the White Neutral? Answer--- 120 volts.
4. If he answers WRONG, do not expect good results from his work. Hopefully he is BONDED to pay for any other damage he causes. Doug

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
thanks for the responses.

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
not feeling real positive about this. New converter on the way. Electrician called.

jkwilson
Explorer II
Explorer II
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
So you have a 50 amp RV and you are using a 50/30 RV adapter and plugging into a NEMA 10-30 outlet? Yea.... DON'T DO THAT.

Many things have now been burned up starting with the converter. The supply is 240v and the adapter is 120v.


Using a dog bone to plug 50 into 30 is done all the time.No problem.


Not into a 10-30.
John & Kathy
2014 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2014 F250 SBCC 6.2L 3.73

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
Sounds like a joke.


My opinion exactly, he must be bored.

naturist
Nomad
Nomad
Good luck.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Once the magic smoke leaves the machine...you need strong wizardry (ie: electrician) to put it back in.

I'm assuming you somehow managed to get a 30amp-120v RV plug to connect to a 30amp-240v outlet...the electrical systems don't like that.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
To answer the question "How can neutral get hot"
IF you have a 30 amp rig the neutral carries ALL the current. does not matter if you are plugged into a 50 amp 120/240 volt outlet with a dogbone or a 30 amp 120 volt it carries ALL the current. So I might add does the hot wire.

When a 50 amp rig is plugged into a properly wired park outlet and if is is PERFETLY balanced the neutral carries nothing. else it carries the difference between L-1 and L-2 But if the park cheated and wired the 50 amp outlet with one leg only then the neutral carries the full load of BOTH legs and WILL get hot

If you plug a 30 amp rig into a 240 volt outlet meant for things like welders, dryers or air compressors.

Bad things will nappen and you did a fairly good job of describing them
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

cavie
Explorer
Explorer
scout3351 wrote:
Having electrical issues after loaning out trailer for a week. AC doesn't work, refridgerater works only on gas, sparks blowing out of converter. Opened converter because I could see debris behind the fan. Both capaciters were split open with the contents laying all over. While checking things out I got a scare when I was checking the neutral bar. I'm no electrician but I don't believe the white wire going to the neutral bar should read 120v. Red wire going to breaker is 120v. Black wire going to next breaker is 120v. Ground wire to grounding bar is fine. If I just plug in with 120v cable its fine. It's when I plug in with the 220v 30 amp cable that things get ugly. How can the neutral wire get hot when plugged in with 220v?


call an electrician and do NOT plug in until you do. Sparks means failure of the system.
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

cavie
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
So you have a 50 amp RV and you are using a 50/30 RV adapter and plugging into a NEMA 10-30 outlet? Yea.... DON'T DO THAT.

Many things have now been burned up starting with the converter. The supply is 240v and the adapter is 120v.


Using a dog bone to plug 50 into 30 is done all the time.No problem.
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sounds like a joke.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman