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electrical problems

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
Having electrical issues after loaning out trailer for a week. AC doesn't work, refridgerater works only on gas, sparks blowing out of converter. Opened converter because I could see debris behind the fan. Both capaciters were split open with the contents laying all over. While checking things out I got a scare when I was checking the neutral bar. I'm no electrician but I don't believe the white wire going to the neutral bar should read 120v. Red wire going to breaker is 120v. Black wire going to next breaker is 120v. Ground wire to grounding bar is fine. If I just plug in with 120v cable its fine. It's when I plug in with the 220v 30 amp cable that things get ugly. How can the neutral wire get hot when plugged in with 220v?
33 REPLIES 33

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
I put the 2 new capacitors in the converter and it is working again. Put a new AC unit on the roof and that is working again. I replaced a 5 amp fuse on the circuit board on the fridge and replaced the heat tube and that is working again. Got out of this mess for less than $800. Thanks You Tube videos and thanks to you guys. No one but me will ever pull this trailer out of the yard again.

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
I always keep the trailer plugged in to 110v when its at home to keep the batteries up. Thats how I found the converter was blown up. Had him bring the adapter he used. That's when I found out about the hot neutral wire. I visualize giving him 20 lashes with the his adapter. Still waiting on the new converter and ordered 2 new capaciters to see if I can bring the old one back to life.

bob213
Explorer
Explorer
I think I'd be having a conversation with whomever he lent this thing to.

The way I read the OP is was not the person he lent it to that plugged in to 220V it was the OP himself. Either way I'm sure he has an expensive mess to clean up. ๐Ÿ˜ž
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality โ€“ Ayn Rand

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
bikerdan,

Make that ESPECIALLY family.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

bikendan
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
Lynnmor wrote:
2oldman wrote:
Sounds like a joke.
My opinion exactly, he must be bored.
I think I'd be having a conversation with whomever he lent this thing to.


This is an example why the vast majority of us would NEVER lend our RV to anyone, not even family.
Dan- Firefighter, Retired:C, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur:W, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP:(), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
scout3351,


120 volt AC
Any device that was on, or in standby (microwave) is at risk of being damaged. The best thing to do is to test them one by one.

Test the 120 volt element in the Fridge.

12 volt DC

Any device with computer boards that was being "fed" by the now blown up converter may have failed. You can test those more or less immediately if the 12 volt battery still works.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

scout3351
Explorer
Explorer
oh, we've had conversations. Believe me. And we're not done yet. What else may have been fried? Fridge now only works on gas. Are there any fuses in the circuit boards? Anything else? I will definitely "test" the electrician when he comes Friday.
I am amazed at the amount of knowledge that is here and the willingness to share it. Thank you.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Huh ? He did it himself, not right to blame it on the lentee !!
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Lynnmor wrote:
2oldman wrote:
Sounds like a joke.
My opinion exactly, he must be bored.
I think I'd be having a conversation with whomever he lent this thing to.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Alan_Hepburn
Explorer
Explorer
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
So you have a 50 amp RV and you are using a 50/30 RV adapter and plugging into a NEMA 10-30 outlet? Yea.... DON'T DO THAT.

Many things have now been burned up starting with the converter. The supply is 240v and the adapter is 120v.


Using a dog bone to plug 50 into 30 is done all the time.No problem.


Nope - plugging an RV into a NEMA 10-30 outlet causes problems; plugging an RV into a NEMA TT30 outlet is what is done all the time...
----------------------------------------------
Alan & Sandy Hepburn driving a 2007 Fleetwood Bounder 35E on a Workhorse chassis - Proud to be a Blue Star Family!
Good Sam Member #566004

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
dougrainer wrote:
Ed_Gee wrote:
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
So you have a 50 amp RV and you are using a 50/30 RV adapter and plugging into a NEMA 10-30 outlet? Yea.... DON'T DO THAT.

Many things have now been burned up starting with the converter. The supply is 240v and the adapter is 120v.


Using a dog bone to plug 50 into 30 is done all the time.No problem.


A NEMA 10-30 outlet is NOT the same as an RV 30A outlet....they just look the same.

Very dangerous for an RV !


One other thing. A 30 amp 120 RV outlet has 2 spades and the Ground is round. The Home/industrial type has 3 Spades. I have yet to see a 220 dryer or welder have that round spade for ground. HENCE, I am always amazed how some then MAKE that 220 plug fit their 30 amp RV Male plug:h Doug

Even though a 10-30R receptacle doesnโ€™t have a round hole (L shaped slot instead), it is otherwise configured the very similar. A little pressure would probably push the round pin on the plug into the L on the outlet.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Ed_Gee wrote:
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
So you have a 50 amp RV and you are using a 50/30 RV adapter and plugging into a NEMA 10-30 outlet? Yea.... DON'T DO THAT.

Many things have now been burned up starting with the converter. The supply is 240v and the adapter is 120v.


Using a dog bone to plug 50 into 30 is done all the time.No problem.


A NEMA 10-30 outlet is NOT the same as an RV 30A outlet....they just look the same.

Very dangerous for an RV !


One other thing. A 30 amp 120 RV outlet has 2 spades and the Ground is round. The Home/industrial type has 3 Spades. I have yet to see a 220 dryer or welder have that round spade for ground. HENCE, I am always amazed how some then MAKE that 220 plug fit their 30 amp RV Male plug:h Doug

Ed_Gee
Explorer II
Explorer II
cavie wrote:
time2roll wrote:
So you have a 50 amp RV and you are using a 50/30 RV adapter and plugging into a NEMA 10-30 outlet? Yea.... DON'T DO THAT.

Many things have now been burned up starting with the converter. The supply is 240v and the adapter is 120v.


Using a dog bone to plug 50 into 30 is done all the time.No problem.


A NEMA 10-30 outlet is NOT the same as an RV 30A outlet....they just look the same.

Very dangerous for an RV !
Ed - on the Central Oregon coast
2018 Winnebago Fuse 23A
Scion xA toad