Frame Flex???

[Jcs1382]

I have a 2013 3300CK Heartland Sundance fifth wheel. The caulk along one side of the upper deck just will not stay 'together'. I touched base with Heartland and followed instructions to measure deflection. 3/4" on the door side and 1/4" on the other side. Next step from Lippert... have service shop pull the filon and inspect the upper deck... take photos of all of the welds.

So - I take it in to an independent service center (San Antonio) and give them the information. Theoretically, they check the welds. Call me and tell me... there are no weld problems. Then, they call and tell me they found the problem and are reinforcing it. They took NO photos of the exposed upper deck. The only 'proof' of the problem are a couple of videos. From the wrong side of the RV. They would start from wt on the landing legs & 'lift' the pin box and you can see a 3/8-ish board start from 3/4" below the sidewall and as they lift the pinbox, the board rises behind the sidewall.

They decided to reinforce the framing of the sidewall with a vertical piece of plywood at the very front pocket of the front cap... and to add more and longer screws up through the bottom to better anchor it.

They said... fixed & good to go. I go in and check - NO. Unfortunately, I already paid them $2K. Same problem, same area. Duh! :S I see no way their 'fix' would deal with the measured deflection from pin box to landing legs. I have an engineering background and would like to think I'm a reasonably logical and handy person. I should also mention... I'm a single woman and RVing solo. Am I missing something (aside from the typical mechanic's 'no need to listen to female')??

Suggestions welcome - I've only been RVing for a year & I'm still learning the 'lingo'.

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The RV is still at the repair shop & they have promised to get it fixed right. My problem is whether or not they can find and fix the issue.

[1382jcs]

New info... I've closely examined all frame parts for the upper deck... no visible breaks in the weld, irregularities (crack/bowing) in the tubes. More thinking needed!

[N-Trouble]

dougrainer wrote:
Whenever we have had a problem with LCI frames(warranty or non warranty), we have the Mobile LCI team come and fix the steel frame. WE are responsible for removing for steel access, but LCI trained employees do the work. THAT is the only people we would have work on the LCI frame. These guys KNOW what they are doing. Doug

So your theory here is that the guys who work for the SAME company who did the original crummy build work are the only ones who know how to fix it??? Your kidding right?

I've seen enough Lippert welds to know these guys are not experts in their trade...

IMO go to a reputable 3rd party shop known for fixing Lippert's ****

[Jcs1382]

ChuckV1 wrote:
Jcs1382

Read the link below, it sounds allot like what your are experiencing only in a Montana where the caulk along one side was moving.

As you will read they had to remove the front cap to get at the problem but at the factory not a repair shop ...

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69100

Safe travels

That's it. Mine is a bit further away from the pin box. My gap in the side-seal is 'only' 2mm. Close enough in any case. Many thanks for that link!

Joann

[ChuckV1]

Jcs1382

Read the link below, it sounds allot like what your are experiencing only in a Montana where the caulk along one side was moving.

As you will read they had to remove the front cap to get at the problem but at the factory not a repair shop ...

http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69100

Safe travels

[Jcs1382]

dougrainer wrote:
Whenever we have had a problem with LCI frames(warranty or non warranty), we have the Mobile LCI team come and fix the steel frame. WE are responsible for removing for steel access, but LCI trained employees do the work. THAT is the only people we would have work on the LCI frame. These guys KNOW what they are doing. Doug

That makes sense... as long as I'm right in my assumption that there is a frame issue. I don't know enough about fifth wheels to say it isn't something else.

I'd hoped it was just a matter of taking the bottom flex-layer off and pulling up the inside floor. TX RV Supply (mainly repair shop) insists the front cap also has to come off. I don't see taking the front cap off by myself. So - does the front cap have to come off?

I was leaning towards driving the rig someplace, possibly even all the way up to Elkhart. I planned on a trip up to Kansas City to visit some friends, so it isn't that much further out of my way. On the down side... that's a long way to go.

[dougrainer]

Whenever we have had a problem with LCI frames(warranty or non warranty), we have the Mobile LCI team come and fix the steel frame. WE are responsible for removing for steel access, but LCI trained employees do the work. THAT is the only people we would have work on the LCI frame. These guys KNOW what they are doing. Doug

[Jay_Pat]

There is probably more deflection when you are driving down the road and you hit a dip in the pavement and traveling 65 mph. And, you hit "dips" many times traveling around.
I would consider looking for a rv repair shop with a reputation for fixing weak 5th wheel trailer frames. Call around and and ask.
San Antonio is a big town and should have one.
Tell them you are an steel structural engineer and you need to see what is going on and you need to verify any suggested repairs.
You can offer to sign a liability release so you can get into the shop area. Tell them you have a safety vest and hard hat if needed.
I hope this is helpful for you to figure out the problem.
Pat