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Fresh water tank back filling thru pump

geneeich
Explorer
Explorer
I am having a problem where the fresh water tank is filling while hooked up to city water. I think is must be coming thru the check valve in the pump. Does anyone know if the hole pump has to be replaced or can only the valve be replaced. I have not researched the pump on line, just looking for some general info.

Thanks for any help and guidance.
2015 F-250 Crew Cab Long Bed Diesel
2016 Rockwood 2906WS Travel Trailer
19 REPLIES 19

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
geneeich wrote:
Water pressure in is regulated at 44# and regulator has gauge showing out side pressure. If the new pump doesn't fix the problem I'll have to install a check valve as suggested.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.


1. IF leaking thru the Pump, replacing the pump will FIX the problem. ALWAYS will.
2. ALL you have to do is remove the Intake fitting from the pump. IF leaking thru the pump, you will see water flowing out.
3. NO RV IS DESIGNED TO FILL THE FRESH TANK THRU THE WATER PUMP.
4. PSI has nothing to do with failure of the pump to stop backfilling.
5. Adding a check valve is NOT a hack if you intend to get the pump replaced. It is a good thing to do until you get the pump replaced. Doug

geneeich
Explorer
Explorer
Water pressure in is regulated at 44# and regulator has gauge showing out side pressure. If the new pump doesn't fix the problem I'll have to install a check valve as suggested.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
2015 F-250 Crew Cab Long Bed Diesel
2016 Rockwood 2906WS Travel Trailer

SaltiDawg
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the info on the pump. Non RVer here.

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
SaltiDawg wrote:
wnjj wrote:
...It uses check valves to push the water toward the outlet.

How does that work?

RV water pumps like the Shurflo models are positive displacement diaphragm pumps:

"A diaphragm pump (also known as a Membrane pump) is a positive displacement pump that uses a combination of the reciprocating action of a rubber, thermoplastic or teflon diaphragm and suitable valves on either side of the diaphragm (check valve, butterfly valves, flap valves, or any other form of shut-off valves) to pump a fluid."

Diaphragm pump

The graphic shows a 2-chamber pump, while the Shurflo and others have 3 or more chambers, but the concept for each chamber is the same.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

SaltiDawg
Explorer
Explorer
wnjj wrote:
...It uses check valves to push the water toward the outlet.

How does that work?

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Have you checked water pressure? s/b about 45 to 65 psi.

Fulltimer50
Explorer
Explorer
Dont count to much on a new pump fixing your problem. I had that same problem even after a new pump was installed. I put in the check valve between the pump and the tank and no more problem.
George

2011 F350 PSD CC LB 4X4 DRW Lariate
2015 Mobile Suites 41RSSB4 5th Wheel

geneeich
Explorer
Explorer
I thought it was OK, but seems to be doing it again. Very slow back flow, couple days to fill fresh water tank. The trailer is still under warranty, so when I get back from trip in October I'll have him fix it. Until then I'll do as you say and may be it fixes it self.

Thanks for the info.
2015 F-250 Crew Cab Long Bed Diesel
2016 Rockwood 2906WS Travel Trailer

ghorn
Explorer
Explorer
Sand, grit, or calcium (from some sources of hard-water) can cause the check-valve built into the exit-side of your water pump to stick slightly open. Then when hooked up to city/camp water it will back-flow thru the open check-valve and eventually overfill your fresh water tank.
First, turn the city water off at the faucet. Then turn your pump ON, then open a faucet in the lavatory or galley, etc. to allow the pump to push the debris out/thru the check valve. Operate the pump on/off/on/off a could times with the faucet open. Then with the pump flowing water close the faucet and turn OFF the pump.
Open the city/camp water and observe if that hasn't cleared the problem.

I've demonstrated this to several owners and it solved the problem for all but one of them. We had to disassemble the checkvalve for his pump and clean it out with vinegar, then reassembled it at it was fixed.

Hope this helps.

geneeich
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks to everyone, I've use the pump to drain the tank and all seems ok for now.
2015 F-250 Crew Cab Long Bed Diesel
2016 Rockwood 2906WS Travel Trailer

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Adding a check valve seems like a hack to me. If the internal pump check valve is leaking, that means the pump isn't working to its full potential. It uses check valves to push the water toward the outlet.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
beemerphile1 wrote:
Simply turning the pump on may dislodge the particle that is causing the check valve to leak.


Exactly.....

2016 RV so most likely plastic debris from fresh water tank/pump installation

Use pump for water needs instead of city water and use up the WHOLE fresh water tank.
Then swap back to city water-----disconnect suction line on pump and see if it still is back-flowing thru pump

If it still is.......warranty/replace pump

OR

buy a $15 in-line check valve and install it in suction line.
(Shuflo makes an in-line)

Cheaper/easier then pump rebuild
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Simply turning the pump on may dislodge the particle that is causing the check valve to leak.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad