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Furnace Cycles

chinook507
Explorer
Explorer
Have a 2013 Cougar 32RBK Xlite and the furnace burner cycles on and off while the blower continues to run until the set thermostat temperature is reached. Was wondering if this is normal?
2001 Excursion V10
2013 Keystone Cougar
1997 Kawasaki 1100STX Jet Ski
1991 Kawasaki Bayou 300 4X4
1989 Kawasaki Bayou 220
1989 Kawasaki Bayou 220 2X4
14 REPLIES 14

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
The Atwood manual says: fix the ducting, replace the limit switch, adjust LP pressure.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Wild Bill 888 wrote:
“Normal. Ours does that so that it doesn't overheat when running for longer periods of time. Safety feature of the furnace.”

Circuit breakers are a safety feature, but if you are relying on a breaker to pop every five minutes you are relying on the last layer of protection, and are not safe. What happens when the contacts of the over temperature switch weld themselves together from excessive cycling?


I have never seen that(40years). What usually happens on a Hi Limit that has too much duty, is, it stays OPEN and the furnace will not heat. The Bi Metal inside finally gives up and the default is to NOT make a closed circuit. Doug

Wild_Bill_888
Explorer
Explorer
“Normal. Ours does that so that it doesn't overheat when running for longer periods of time. Safety feature of the furnace.”

Circuit breakers are a safety feature, but if you are relying on a breaker to pop every five minutes you are relying on the last layer of protection, and are not safe. What happens when the contacts of the over temperature switch weld themselves together from excessive cycling?

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
Yes, there is a safety feature called a high limit switch that shuts the burner down if the heat exchanger gets too hot. But cycling on and off continually is not a normal operation for the furnace.
There are a variety of reasons for cycling, but the two most common reasons are restricted ducts and faulty limit switch.

doxiemom11
Explorer II
Explorer II
Normal. Ours does that so that it doesn't overheat when running for longer periods of time. Safety feature of the furnace. Now I don't mean it goes on and off every 15 seconds, but runs for 4-5 minutes, then off, cools a couple minutes all the while the fan is blowing warm air yet, then burner re-lights and heats for a few more minutes etc.

Wild_Bill_888
Explorer
Explorer
If the air flow is vigorous and unobstructed, and the discharge temperature is high, consider lowering the gas pressure to reduce the heat rate to the point where the burner does not cycle.

Thermal cycling at high temperature accelerates heat exchanger aging and promotes cracking.

High altitude reduces heat transfer, increasing heat exchanger temperature, another reason to reduce heat rate.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
garym114 wrote:
chinook507 wrote:
Have a 2013 Cougar 32RBK Xlite and the furnace burner cycles on and off while the blower continues to run until the set thermostat temperature is reached. Was wondering if this is normal?
This is the way my Atwood heater has operated for the 13 years that I have owned it.
Mine also for a decade before I fixed it.

garym114
Explorer II
Explorer II
chinook507 wrote:
Have a 2013 Cougar 32RBK Xlite and the furnace burner cycles on and off while the blower continues to run until the set thermostat temperature is reached. Was wondering if this is normal?


This is the way my Atwood heater has operated for the 13 years that I have owned it.
2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
Some RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
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imgoin4it
Explorer
Explorer
I always thought that not to be normal, but mine does the same.. Dealer tech says normal. Had a friend with different brand of coach. His did same. Not sure what is right but mine has been working that way for 11 years. I just don’t worry about it anymore.
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chinook507
Explorer
Explorer
I scoped my floor ducts and did not see any blockages, furnace has 4 ducts, 1 in the forward area, 1 in the living area, 1 in the rear bunk area, and 1 in the bathroom. All ducts are wide open, nothing restricted from what I can see.
2001 Excursion V10
2013 Keystone Cougar
1997 Kawasaki 1100STX Jet Ski
1991 Kawasaki Bayou 300 4X4
1989 Kawasaki Bayou 220
1989 Kawasaki Bayou 220 2X4

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Not normal. The existing ducts are either inadequate or blocked from debris or poor installation.

Mine was poorly installed to minimum spec with joints blocking air flow and floor insulation collapsing the duct. I ended up adding two additional ducts using the 4" knockouts. Tons of heat now and burner runs until the thermostat is happy.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Chris Bryant wrote:
No, it isn’t. Check the ducting for blockages or recirculating hot air. It is never good for it to cycle on the limit switch.


Also, you need the install specs for your model furnace. RV furnaces require the correct amount of duct tube knock out plates in use to prevent overheating. Your furnace is overheating and that is what is causing the burner to short cycle. There are 2 ways a furnace is ducted and BOTH may be utilized at the same time.
1. 4 inch round knock outs with 4 inch duct tubes
2. THRU the floor ducting which the output of the furnace on the BOTTOM is forcing air thru a in the floor duct system.
Last, it is not a good idea to cut off or restrict a duct to stop heated air from causing an area to get too hot. THAT will restrict and cause burner short cycling also. Doug

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
No, it isn’t. Check the ducting for blockages or recirculating hot air. It is never good for it to cycle on the limit switch.
-- Chris Bryant

JimK-NY
Explorer II
Explorer II
yes