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FW 120v ac wiring guidance

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
I just finished the install of a Progressive Industries EMS unit (EMS-HW50C) for our 50 Amp service FW. I also added a transfer switch for the 7KW Onan generator I am installing in the front bay.

all works great.. the EMS unit also tells you the amp draw per leg.. nice info..

well, I just discovered that they wired it so that I have both A/C units AND the microwave on one leg.. the vac/clothes washer (not installed) and converter are on the other leg.
(had 'expected' to have the circuit layout like a normal breaker panel where the breaker slots toggle which source they are on.. WF8930/50 )

course they didn't leave enough wire in the fuse panel for me to just MOVE the hot wire around, so I will have to pull the thing out again, release the wire clamps and move the circuits around..

is there any guidance on what to put on what leg? What happens when you go to a 30amp service location.. I would use the dogbone, so I think both sides are still powered..just with less amp available..

the one leg ws pulling 16amp with the main A/C on. 28 with both.

thanks for any advice

2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB
22 REPLIES 22

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Yes and I have removed and reinserted a few multiple times on my WFCO panel without issue.
With reasonable caution you should have no problems. Strain relief is not a huge issue at this point. No one is moving, bumping, twisting, pushing on those wires once the panel is back in place.

If you are not comfortable with the adjustment then by all means just pigtail it.


I did break the strain reliefs and need to get a couple breakers with proper amp ratings 15/20 vs 15/15 and 20/20, cause these are dual circuit breakers

but now on the EMS it shows 17amp on one leg and 15 amp on the other..
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
This is one style. Not ends are curved and sides have plastic barb to retain in box.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-3-8-in-Non-Metallic-NM-Cable-Connectors-5-Pack-27515/100197570
http://www.lowes.com/pd_1440-15527-43840_4294653948__?productId=1017311&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
Even if you break the strain relief they are available at most hardware stores.
They are used in some service panels that have flat sides and rounded ends in the panel opening


never seen one.. link would be helpful..
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Even if you break the strain relief they are available at most hardware stores.
They are used in some service panels that have flat sides and rounded ends in the panel opening

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Yes and I have removed and reinserted a few multiple times on my WFCO panel without issue.
With reasonable caution you should have no problems. Strain relief is not a huge issue at this point. No one is moving, bumping, twisting, pushing on those wires once the panel is back in place.

If you are not comfortable with the adjustment then by all means just pigtail it.


great info, thanks!.. that was what I was hoping was possible.
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Yes and I have removed and reinserted a few multiple times on my WFCO panel without issue.
With reasonable caution you should have no problems. Strain relief is not a huge issue at this point. No one is moving, bumping, twisting, pushing on those wires once the panel is back in place.

If you are not comfortable with the adjustment then by all means just pigtail it.

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
Yes a bit tedious but I would move the wires and strain reliefs around if at all possible vs adding a wirenut connection and pigtail.


the strain reliefs on this panel are square openings in the back plastic panel, with 1/2 each of the hole as arms. when you push the wire in, the arms move a little, allowing the wire thru. when you stop, the outside edge of the arms clamp the wire so it cannot be pulled back out. I'll take a picture..

I talked to WFCO tech support earlier.. these are one way. not tested to expand them manually from the other side and remove the wire.
they said the arms only move so far, and 'probably might break', leaving NO strain relief. these square holes are only tall enough for 12-2 wire, the red box below. sadly there is no room to add a normal box strain relief
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Yes a bit tedious but I would move the wires and strain reliefs around if at all possible vs adding a wirenut connection and pigtail.

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:
The NEC allows the use of wire nuts inside a distro panel, it's considered a junction box. Rather than go through all that work you can add a short pigtail on the wire(s) that needs to be moved to make it long enough, assuming there is adequate room in the box for one or more wirenuts.


ok, now THAT is a solution.. WFCO says the pinch strain reliefs are not intended to be opened, and are one way.
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
The NEC allows the use of wire nuts inside a distro panel, it's considered a junction box. Rather than go through all that work you can add a short pigtail on the wire(s) that needs to be moved to make it long enough, assuming there is adequate room in the box for one or more wirenuts.

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
Golden_HVAC wrote:
If you just remove the cover for the 120 volt circuit breakers, and determine what CB feeds each of the loads, and what you want to move, it will be easy to move one load from CB #1 to CB #2 leg.

Fred.


easy is a relative term. they didn't leave enough hot wire to just move the wire to another breaker. This distro center uses the plastic pinch retainers on the wire insulation.. so not only do I have to remove the breaker (swap sides with the 20 and 15 amp breakers) I have to remove all three wires and pry open the retainer to be able to pull the wire back out. times 2.
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
With only 30 amps per side using generator the balance becomes more important.

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
If you just remove the cover for the 120 volt circuit breakers, and determine what CB feeds each of the loads, and what you want to move, it will be easy to move one load from CB #1 to CB #2 leg.

Fred.
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Porsche or Country Coach!



If there's a WILL, I want to be in it!



I havn't been everywhere, but it's on my list.

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Escapees.com

sdetweil
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

If you boondock and use an inverter there is a case to be made for having all the items you do NOT wish to run via the inverter on one leg.

You could still have each air conditioner on separate legs--just don't turn it on when using the inverter.


good point. you could even go so far as to turn off that other leg breaker.

I will have a 7kw propane generator, so no shortage of power really, but only 30 amps per leg.
2012 Ford F350 DRW, 6.7 diesel.
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB