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Generator question - let carb run dry or keep it wet?

alank2
Explorer
Explorer
I was helping my father in law get his genset running yesterday and ran into the same issue we ran into about 6 months ago. It wouldn't start, was difficult to pull the cord. It would finally start up and then stop shortly thereafter and gas would burst out of the air filter box. Checking the oil area reveals that it is full of fuel! Dump the fuel and put oil back in and it will start back up and run.

Doing some reading and talking to my dad, the thinking was that something in the carb is stuck allowing fuel to slowly work its way into the engine because we are leaving the fuel switch on.

I've done this for probably 8 years with my Yamaha 3000 and had no ill effect, but am a bit concerned that perhaps that isn't the best practice. I double treat my fuel with stabil the first day I get it and it is pure gas (no ethanol).

So my question is - should the carb be left wet with treated fuel, or should I shut off the fuel switch and let it run dry. I've always thought letting it run dry might leave a little residual fuel in there that could dry up, gum up, varnish, etc.
44 REPLIES 44

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
alank2 wrote:
I'll try my Yamaha dry then - I started it up and turned off the fuel switch and waited for it to run out. It does indeed take a few minutes...

On my lawnmower that I use for 2 lawns, I am turning fuel off while STARTING the last lawn. The fuel in the bowl will run the engine for about 3 minutes under the load.
Also on restart, the small fuel line need couple of minutes to fill the bowl, so don't pull the rope without giving it some time.
And again, several Honda small engines I have all start on 1st pull 98 out of 100 times.
The cheap 2-cycle generator is more tricky.

alank2
Explorer
Explorer
Sam Spade wrote:
Answer #2: There will be a little left but it isn't a little that you are worried about. The problem occurs when some evaporates and is replaced by more which then evaporates and is replaced........


Thanks Sam - what environment causes this?

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
alank2 wrote:

Question #1 is - if you leave it wet and turn off the switch, will it dry up?

Question #2 is - if you turn off the fuel and run it until it stops, will the carb be completely dry? Or will there be gas left that could dry out and get gummy?


Answer #1: Yes very likely, depending on how long it sits.

Answer #2: There will be a little left but it isn't a little that you are worried about. The problem occurs when some evaporates and is replaced by more which then evaporates and is replaced........
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

alank2
Explorer
Explorer
I'll try my Yamaha dry then - I started it up and turned off the fuel switch and waited for it to run out. It does indeed take a few minutes...

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have the Onan 5500 in our toyhauler and while I can't run the carb dry, I do drain the carb after I shut the generator off. We use it once a year maybe, and have had no issues with it starting back up. I usually throw some Stabil in the fuel tank if I can remember. Seems like the same fuel has been in the tank for a couple years, but I use it so infrequently I don't remember exactly.

I do the same with my carburetted bike that is going to be sitting for an extended time. An extended time is anything over a month or two.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

HuckFinn410
Explorer
Explorer
Here is what I have done for many years with all of my small engines...i.e. snowblower, mower, generator, outboard, etc.

Take off the air cleaner, remove all fuel but just a tiny bit, run the engine until it sputters, squirt in a healthy dose of engine fogging spray to coat the carb and cylinders(stabil engine fogging oil). Run until motor dies out. Remove spark plug /s and shoot a spray of fogging oil in the cylinders. Has worked flawlessly for years.

It's basically winterizing the engine Works no matter where you live.
Homesick for a place that I've never been

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Do not ask for advice on this subject: Because the answer will be "No" and "Yes"

Reminds me to get a gallon of Coleman fuel. Sealed, to carry with me. Pure naphtha cannot foul, go bad, or gum, in a hundred years. I learned this trick from Pacific loggers, who sneer at the idea of using storage additives or "draining the fuel". Jesรบs, cannot believe his dive compressor starts on the first pull after storage for nearly a year in the tropics. No, the engine does not run under load with naphtha - after starting regular gasoline takes over. "Sta-Bil" in the tropics helps gasoline, but after three months even with triple strength dosing, the stored fuel is a lost cause.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gasoline when evaporating in carburetor will leave varnishes and other nasty stuff that can prevent the float from closing - therefore problems on the restart.
I always run carburetors dry and my 20 years old pressure washer starts on 1st pull 98 out of 100 times.
Never used stabil and even 2 years old gasoline seems to run fine on machine stored under the cover.

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
I RTFM, then I do what it says in there, following the procedure to a "T". I've had no problems since then.

wilanddij
Explorer
Explorer
After having to pull the carb on my Onan 5500 apart due to it being left too long between runs, I put a cut-off valve in the fuel line and run it dry after each use when I don't expect to need it again the next day.
Will & Di
2004 Southwind 32VS
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"We have met the enemy, and he is us" Pogo

skiles
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Champion and my Owners manual says to always cut the fuel off and let it run dry when your done. I always use premium gas treated with Stabil as well. Just my 2 cents.
2009 Outback 268rl
2015 F250 Lariat 6.7 Powerstroke

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
FWIW, I used to have carb problems. A couple of years ago, my mechanic told me what to do. Now I run my Honda 2000 every month for a half hour under a 1500 watt load (I attach a heat gun), and then I drain the carb (very easy to do). I add an ounce of Sea Foam, too. No more problems.

I would not store it wet - the gas in Calif is terrible. And running it dry takes too long -- just drain the carb.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
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llr
Explorer
Explorer
since fuel is getting into the oil it must have a diaphram fuel pump and the diaphram needs to be replaced. you may need to follow the fuel line to find it as it could be on the carb or separate.

As for storing dry I normally do this if it has a shutoff and will be a long time, I also treat all my gas cans with sea-foam so it probably doesn't matter.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have done both. Running the carb dry means a much easier start a month later than leaving fuel in it.

Much easier.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I leave my Honda 2KW EU2000i as is... I got this in 2007 I think it was from MAYBERRYs... My savings grace is it sets secured in the rear tailgate corner of my covered and locked truck bed... I'm always firing it up for something at least once a week...

It has been sitting in my truck bed for over three years now and still starts with first or second yank on the rope... I use regular gasoline in it and usually run some sta-bil through it a couple of time each year...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
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