Hardwiring inverter to converter and redundant charging

[hyfyve]

I am thinking of adding dual 6 volts and a solar charger with inverter system to my open range, I have a question about 12 volt charging.

The inverter I was looking at has a built in switch and also a battery charger.

The converter that's in my RV now has a 12 volt distribution fused block.

I want to wire my inverter with switch to my converter so I can run my whole trailer on the batteries if I do not have shore power. The batteries of course need to be connected, therefore when I do have shore power the inverter will charge my batteries and transfer 120 VAC to my converter.

My converter also has a charger and all the 12 volt is distributed through it, so when the converter is getting 120 VAC it is also charging the batteries.

Therefore when I am connected to shore power my inverter will be charging the batteries and the converter will also be charging.

Is there any issue with this sort of loop? Hope this makes sense I have attached a picture to better explain myself. Thanks.

Edit: just a thought but when I am not plugged into shore power the inverter will be feeding power to my converter therefore would I have power to my 12 volt distribution and if so could I disconnect the cables from my battery to the converter?

[wolfe10]

Yes, like most higher end inverters and inverter chargers, this one has the pass through feature: http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=806-1810&pnumber=XT8061810&mfg=XANTREX&desc=Pr...


Using an inverter with this feature and routing inverter output to a sub-panel for those things you want to be able to run on on the inverter allows a very electrically "correct" installation. Where both hot and neutral for those circuits are on the sub panel.

[hyfyve]

smkettner wrote:
1500 does not seem like low wattage. 1500 is a space heater.

I understand I am going oversized, but say I want to run my coffee maker off the batteries if I was in a bind, I could probably do that, why not go bigger than you need?

Wolfe what you are taking about is something like this?

http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=806-1810&pnumber=XT8061810&mfg=XANTREX&desc=Pro%20Series%201800W%2012V%20Inverter%20w/AC%20Pass%20Through

That would eliminate the need for a switch, correct?

[time2roll]

1500 does not seem like low wattage. 1500 is a space heater.

[wolfe10]

hyfyve wrote:

Wolfe, I am just assuming if I didn't have shore power and had to run on the inverter then if I have the high wattage devices running through the switch the inverter wouldn't handle it, by leaving those items running only when shore power is connected then I should be OK, but please if I am wrong someone let me know, just want to make sure I do this properly.

Both achieve the same goal-- to allow some small draw 120 VAC loads from inverter, but keep high draw loads only powered by shore power.

Just two ways to do the same thing-- tell us whether the inverter you are considering has "pass through" feature. If so, you would supply the inverter with 120 VAC from the main breaker box, then 120 VAC out to the sub panel to those things you want powered by the inverter.

Operation would be seamless-- on shore power, everything would run on shore power. Disconnecting shore power would automatically provide those few low-amp devices with "inverted" 120 VAC.

This is how many RV's are wired from the factory.

[hyfyve]

wolfe10 wrote:
Two questions:

I don't understand the 120 VAC OUT from the converter to A/C, refrig, water heater

Also, what you label a "switch" could be a switch, or if the inverter has a pass through feature, a sub-panel (better).

Wolfe, I am just assuming if I didn't have shore power and had to run on the inverter then if I have the high wattage devices running through the switch the inverter wouldn't handle it, by leaving those items running only when shore power is connected then I should be OK, but please if I am wrong someone let me know, just want to make sure I do this properly.

BFL13 wrote:

Change "converter" to "power centre" The converter is just the part of the power centre that makes 120v into 12v. It has no 120v output.

Fixed thanks

[BFL13]

hyfyve wrote:
Just to be clear as some of you have recommended this is what's meant? Drawing is not very detailed sorry

Change "converter" to "power centre" The converter is just the part of the power centre that makes 120v into 12v. It has no 120v output.

[wolfe10]

Two questions:

I don't understand the 120 VAC OUT from the converter to A/C, refrig, water heater

Also, what you label a "switch" could be a switch, or if the inverter has a pass through feature, a sub-panel (better).

[hyfyve]

Just to be clear as some of you have recommended this is what's meant? Drawing is not very detailed sorry

[BFL13]

Inverter prices are going up at Can Tire so you have to grab the sales when you can. EG, last year the 1000w PSW was about $160 on sale but latest was $199 on sale. The 3000w MSW was $169 last summer on sale but now is $219 on sale this week only until who knows when for how much?

I have been using a 2000w MSW to run the microwave etc. and a smaller inverter for the TV etc. But now need a second big one for another RV. I am likely to grab that 3000w unit this week while I can, even though I only need a 2000w, the way things are going.

Last summer a guy camping nearby had one of those 3000w jobs and I liked it a lot. He was running his MW etc on two 6s, but he also had some solar to get back up to speed with. Without the solar IMO he would have needed four 6s so he could run things when below 75% SOC.

Anyway you have to watch those sales that rotate through their various sized inverters every few months. Never buy one at the "regular" price!

I use the shore cord into the inverter trick so can't suggest anything about transfer switches, etc. Way too complicated for me! This way, I can just grab something on sale and am good to go 🙂

[hyfyve]

Any recommendations on 1500 watt unit with built in switch that can be 120 hardwired?

[ewarnerusa]

I completely agree with the posts about only needing a small inverter for the current usage. But from another angle, the OP is contemplating an upgrade including adding 2x6V batteries and solar. So who knows what they will decide they would like to do with that power once it is available to them. You can afford to be a little less stingy with your 12V power when you are harvesting free power from the sky to recharge. I say go ahead and plan and build around a 1500 watt inverter which is about the max power that 2x6V could run.

[Ron3rd]

smkettner wrote:

hyfyve wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Run the whole RV? Air conditioner? Electric water heater? Microwave? 120v fridge?

And you will need to turn the converter off. The battery will supply the 12v power direct.

No I should have been more clear, just the LED TV and lights and low wattage items.

I can probably go to a 1500 watt system actually, 3000 is overkill.

Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone.

Now we are getting somewhere.

You really need closer to 150 to 300 watts. This can be installed by the breaker/fuse panel. Use the main battery connection for 12v power and a small transfer switch or two to connect to the convenience outlet circuits only. This cuts out all issues with the converter etc.

1500 watts is WAY overkill to charge an iphone. The idle draw alone will be more than goes into the device.

X2, I use a 300w PSW inverter to power my two TVs, DVD, Stereo, and all electronics. The transfer switch is a nice way to go also as noted above.

[time2roll]

hyfyve wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Run the whole RV? Air conditioner? Electric water heater? Microwave? 120v fridge?

And you will need to turn the converter off. The battery will supply the 12v power direct.

No I should have been more clear, just the LED TV and lights and low wattage items.

I can probably go to a 1500 watt system actually, 3000 is overkill.

Thanks for all the replies and advice everyone.

Now we are getting somewhere.

You really need closer to 150 to 300 watts. This can be installed by the breaker/fuse panel. Use the main battery connection for 12v power and a small transfer switch or two to connect to the convenience outlet circuits only. This cuts out all issues with the converter etc.

1500 watts is WAY overkill to charge an iphone. The idle draw alone will be more than goes into the device.

[wa8yxm]

Depending on your RV (What converter you have now) I would most likely disable the existing converter by cutting the 120 volt lead to it (or disconnecting it) and use the charger built into the Inverter.. GENERALLY the converter built into the inverter is, at the worst, equal to the one you have now and often better.

But to be sure I"d need make, models and time to research

I would keep the existing converter in place, won't hurt it or anything else for it to be there and heaven forbid the inverter fail.. BACKUPs are good.

(Been there, done that,,, actually I have a progressive Dynamics Intella power with charge wizard (9180 in my case) which .. Well, recall I said at the worst the inverter's would be as good,, In this case, I would rank the prosine equal but I like the Wizard better for reasons I can not defend. So I choose it.

I will say I have yet to find a better one,, Or a better one than what is in my Prosine,, ((Though I suspect the Prosine may have a slight malfunction,,Works great as a back up unit though)).