HELP! Dometic Fridge has power but not cooling

[Newfie2016]

Hey guys i need help here. Im very new to these travel trailers but do have some mechanic skills. I have a 2012 springdale 311 with the dometic auto fridge "propane and electric". I never did have a problem with my fridge while hooked up to a 30amp service but the past 2 months while camping in a remote area with a 1800w honda generator and propane i ran into a issue. We left one day and kept the fridge in auto to run on the propane. Came back and everything melted. Even tried again with the generator and no cooling. I removed the outside panel and when i removed the plug-in from the outlet then plugged it back in i did hear the generator die down so it has to be drawing power. All lights seem to be working fine inside the trailor on the control panel. "No check light". I checked 2 or 3 clear cylinder type fuses i think in the circuit board and they seem fine, but will do a contunity test on it when i get home. Is there anywhere i should test for voltage? I didnt see any leaks of ammonia. The fridge smells but im thinking its from the food. Isnt there a area where i should blow compress air around the flu tank to remove rust from a burner? Im searching what i can and learning as i go. Help will be greatly appreciated before i bring the camper in$$$. Thanks guys.

[Newfie2016]

http://i1238.photobucket.com/albums/ff499/travis881/6E63375C-20DD-497C-97BD-6C99E1DAB63F_zpshdo0rhln.png

[Newfie2016]

It has the panel on top like he pic the below


***Link Removed***

[Newfie2016]

I may be wrong but i think it is the RM2852. Has the on/off and auto button with check light. I know that isnt alot of detal but im away atm haha. So maybe i should keep my generator running MOST of the time and not let my battery die. It have seen my elextronic meter inside on 1/4 power for my battery once. Hardly even powered my LED lights in my living room.
Would you think a 1800w gen is not keeping my battery charged while running all my gear? Im thinking on buying a bigger gen or even talking the park manager into installing power at my lot since we plan on staying. Ever since this non service thing its been a PITA!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Scoozemee but "auto run on propane" selects exclusively LPG?

Every old reefer of mine when set on "Auto" defaulted to AC when present. If the "Otto" control is faulty it might, not be "otto" switching to LPG. If the LPG burner ignites and stays on but over a period of 12 hours does nothing then there is a mechanical not control problem?

Issue # 131 with my former ownership of LPG appliances.

If the burner does not light it is perhaps a control problem. Or that pesky "ultra-lightweight LPG Bottle Syndrome"

[Chris_Bryant]

Newfie2016 wrote:
...
I never did have a problem with my fridge while hooked up to a 30amp service but the past 2 months while camping in a remote area with a 1800w honda generator and propane i ran into a issue. We left one day and kept the fridge in auto to run on the propane. Came back and everything melted. Even tried again with the generator and no cooling. I removed the outside panel and when i removed the plug-in from the outlet then plugged it back in i did hear the generator die down so it has to be drawing power.
...

If I am getting the timeline correct, I think you just have an LP problem- probably simply need to clean the burner. Once you got back and turned the generator on, it would take 8 hours to cool again if it was full of warm food. The flame is so small on these that a 30% reduction in flame size isn't all that easy to see and judge, but it will stop cooling.
Otherwise, if the battery did die, that would of course shut the unit down.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

"AUTO" in this case may be a clue. MANUALLY try to cool the refrigerator on LPG gas. 1st step in troubleshooting.

[dougrainer]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Dometic or Norcold DC Voltage has to be maintained between 10.5V and 15.4V.

Lower or higher the control module (circuit board) will shut down

Drawing battery voltage below 12V will shorten battery life span.


WHICH MODEL of Dometic..........??????

From the Dometic Manual. Doug

A 12 volt DC supply must be available for the electronic
control to function. The refrigerator will work down to 9.6
volt DC.

[Old-Biscuit]

Dometic or Norcold DC Voltage has to be maintained between 10.5V and 15.4V.

Lower or higher the control module (circuit board) will shut down

Drawing battery voltage below 12V will shorten battery life span.


WHICH MODEL of Dometic..........??????

[dougrainer]

midnightsadie wrote:
I RE READ your post couple times, your not keeping your 12v supply constant, that little computer sees less than 12.5 and its off.

Dometics will operate down to 9.6 volts dc. Doug

[midnightsadie]

I RE READ your post couple times, your not keeping your 12v supply constant, that little computer sees less than 12.5 and its off.

[Mandalay_Parr]

Maybe a Mobile tech can help if you can't get it.

[Newfie2016]

Thanks guys. I had to fly to work the day it quit so i did not have alot of time to troubleshoot. The more advice i get the better. Will be home again in 10 days. Thanks again

[eHoefler]

Newfie2016 wrote:
Even when the generator running? I know i do drain my battery at times just by having music on.

Yes!! Needs a charged battery to keep the little computer going.

[westend]

Check the circuit breaker to the battery. Check the battery voltage. Check the converter output to the battery. Check the 12v fuse that powers the fridge. These will confirm that you have voltage to the fridge's circuit board.

Beyond 12V power failing, there can be a host of reasons you are having problems. A Forum member has trouble-shooting charts and schematics available for download at Bryant RV. Thanks again, Chris!