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Hot Water not working - 2022 Jayco SLX 95

rphail
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a new Jayco 95RBH last year and took 1 trip before winterizing for the year. When I took it out this year to make the first trip I found I was not getting any hot water. I remembered the bypass valves were turned to avoid the hot water tank, I reset them and the tank began to fill.....then the blue and red connections going into the tank began to leak out water (approximately the time I suspect it filled up, took 5 minutes or more). What did I forget and or perhaps do wrong last time I winterized it? *yes it is under warranty but more than a month out for appointments, uGH! more trips in that time planned

any insight is appreciated, not a very experienced RV'r but I have had to work a bit on a hold pop-up i had for a few years so not completely unskilled.

Robb
8 REPLIES 8

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
rphail wrote:
Thanks for the ideas, I am sure that I drained it but can say I am equally as sure I turned it on without water since at first I had forgotten the bypass valves from winterizing. Seams odd that the lines themselves leak at connection to the tank after about 5 minutes of filling the tank...will try to post a small video or pic.


Hi,


If you did not force antifreeze through the bypass valves in the normal connection position to the tank, as you left them in bypass all winter, (you said that in your first post) the water on the tank side of the bypass valve may not have been flushed out with antifreeze and that can crack the fitting. Then you can have a leak.

Just because you pumped antifreeze through the bypass valves/system and you left it in bypass all winter, that does not flush out the water on the "normal" tank side of the bypass valves.

You said this:

rphail wrote:


When I took it out this year to make the first trip I found I was not getting any hot water. I remembered the bypass valves were turned to avoid the hot water tank, I reset them and the tank began to fill.... then the blue and red connections going into the tank began to leak out water (approximately the time I suspect it filled up, took 5 minutes or more). What did I forget and or perhaps do wrong last time I winterized it?


I know folks are talking about a burnt-out element, and that will happen if you fire the heater on electric with no water in it, but it does not create leaks in the piping going into the heater. The element if it is burnt out, is a separate problem.

Hope this helps

John

PS, Post a few pics of the back side of the water heater so we can see your bypass setup and we can tell better what you may have done wrong.
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.

rphail
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the ideas, I am sure that I drained it but can say I am equally as sure I turned it on without water since at first I had forgotten the bypass valves from winterizing. Seams odd that the lines themselves leak at connection to the tank after about 5 minutes of filling the tank...will try to post a small video or pic.

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
USAFBILL wrote:
The electric element may be toast if the unit was turned on without water in the tank


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midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
sounds like you forgot to drain the tank? froze and I don,t think warrenty will cover it.big bucks to fix but if your handy? can be done in your drive way. takes before you start .

schlep1967
Nomad
Nomad
First,
See if you can tighten the blue and red connections. They may have never been tight from the factory. If that doesn't stop the leak, things are broken from freezing.
I hope it's the first one that solves the problem.
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USAFBILL
Explorer
Explorer
The electric element may be toast if the unit was turned on without water in the tank
2003 Cougar 285EFS
2000 Chev 2500 Ex Cab

StarkNaked
Explorer II
Explorer II
Did you drain the water heater tank when you winterized?

And did temperatures drop below freezing?

JBarca
Nomad II
Nomad II
Not sure what your camper uses for the bypass valve or valves, but it is important to know the low spots in your bypass valve piping and to make sure it is drained or has RV antifreeze in all parts of the valves. Or else they can freeze and crack.

Normally, when I winterize, I make sure the bypass valves are back to normal after pumping the antifreeze through in bypass mode. Then when in the normal valve mode, make sure the valves have bled a little antifreeze back into the tank. This purges any trapped water in the valve body itself and or in a low lying fitting going back into the tank.

Pending which camper I am winterizing, I either use the anti-freeze method or the air blow out method. BUT, on both methods I make darn sure the bypass valves have been purged with antifreeze or air blow out.

Hope this helps,

John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.