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How to measure how much solar we need?

path1
Explorer
Explorer
(hope this is right section) Brought home TT last month and now have basics taken care of and RV is road ready. Now starting to think about bigger long term projects.

One project is, we would like to get some solar. Which I know nothing about. I suspect the first step is figuring out a starting place for this project. So I'm assuming that finding how much we actually need might be a good starting spot.

Is there any meter or way to measure to figure out what we need? I'm thinking, if we know how much we use, we could determine how big or small of solar project would be. Thinking in my mind about some type of elec meter that we see how much we use in a week.

Or maybe better yet; how did you figure out how much solar you needed?

Anybody care to pass on any good links or info on RV solar?


Thanks
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"
92 REPLIES 92

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
jrnymn7 wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=euYpZ_VxvWk


Why not. On a long-term stay you can have all kinds of add-ons. Not really a "green" solution, but at least it's silent. Need to show this to snowbirds on my camp, hopefully it will help them to run generators less. Though, this is probably still too complicated for most of them, generator is easier.

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
path1 wrote:

Stopped in at our regular RV guy after picking up TT at another RV dealer and bought what was on the shelf "green long life" 250 lum at over $20.00 each. Adds up quick,

You don't shop at "regular RV guy" for anything having to do with solar or energy conservation. They either have no clue or prices are unrealistic. As much as I'm trying not to contribute in China's growing consumption of limited resources of the planet (due to growing population and income), Ebay is the place to go for LED. 99% of LEDs in "regular" RV shops are from China anyway. SMD boards in the links above cost average $2 a piece, cobs are more expensive ($5 or so on Ebay, don't remember).

I wasn't kidding earlier about wood burning stove. Not 100% kidding, anyway. If you want to live without a generator, in coastal WA, in winter, this is still possible but you need to think outside the box. Your energy needs are modest, mostly it's heating and lights. Convert your lights to LED, this is a no-brainer.

Heating is more difficult, but luckily it's not THAT cold in your area. You can install a catalytic heater, preferably a vented type. Unfortunately I know of only one suitable for RV - Platinum Cat - and this outfit is a pain to deal with. Small company in OR, nice people, but as many US businesses they are struggling now and production delays are a norm. Some members here installed a residential type propane heater in RV, but those were bigger 5-ers or trailers as I recall.

Forget what BFL said about needing 200 AH a day at 35F, in this area it doesn't drop below 40F too often. Besides, energy conservation has never been on his agenda. If the goal is not to use a generator, you can achieve this, and still have warm room and hot meals. With increased battery bank and limited use of 110V devices other than non-satellite TV (and TV would have to be a LCD/LED type). You can live then on 40-60 AH a day, and 225 Ah bank will give you 2 full days without any means of charging. Installing a big solar still makes sense, you will have more energy on sunny days then.

jrnymn7
Explorer
Explorer
Good to know, thanks!

ewarnerusa
Nomad
Nomad
If you end up with a programmable controller, definitely go with circuit breakers all around rather than fuses. You typically have to cut input from the panels and cycle power to the controller to update the program and circuit breakers are way more convenient than pulling a fuse. The kind that snowman linked to work great.
Aspen Trail 2710BH | 470 watts of solar | 2x 6V GC batteries | 100% LED lighting | 1500W PSW inverter | MicroAir on air con | Yamaha 2400 gen

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
bukzin wrote:
Snowman9000 wrote:
Agree with Rjsfishin's first post. In earlier times, solar was very expensive, it made sense to do an audit and a lot of figuring. Now, you can install a pair of 100w 12v panels, mounts and hardware, 8 AWG wires, fuse or better yet an audio supply breaker you can trip for service, a cheap PWM controller (read and or ask here), some terminal ends for wiring, and a cheap meter, all for less than $400 DIY.

If down the road you feel the need to go big, the 8 AWG wire, breaker, and controller will be replaced. You'd be out say $50. IF.

That's my generic recommendation.



Which 'audio supply breaker' do you like.

Do you have any photos or suppliers links?

Thx!


I've bought and installed them, but have not gotten the RV out of the building yet to be able to comment on how well they work.

Here's what I bought
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I would buy some "Cob" type for the compartment bay lights
If I could get them cheap enough
They don't get used much
Most area burned out and have not been replaced

Only need six of them
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

I prefer the flat panel style with adapters because more light is delivered to the RV vs the cob style.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

JiminDenver
Explorer
Explorer
My LEDs were bought off of ebay for $3.29 each a few years back. The same panels can be had for under $2 now. Were I to do it again I would use all cob style because they go in and out like a regular bulb. Change your mind with a panel and it can be a bear getting it out without trashing it or the fixture.

This was my thread click

A much larger thread click

A search here or in the do it yourself forum will yield many results.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
bukzin wrote:


Tell us more about the LED's you installed.

Cost and supplier?

Thx!


10 led bulbs for your 921 fixture lights on ebay

The search function is very useful, try it.

path1
Explorer
Explorer
bukzin wrote:
path1 wrote:
ewarnerusa wrote:
Sounds like the OP hasn't even taken their camper out camping yet.


Absolutely true. Got in home and took care of big stuff... changed out tires, pulled hubs and bearings, load up wives stuff and about ready to use first time.

My posting was an interest in solar because wife runs down batteries in our little Majestic when it's cold out. It is like 1 night 1 battery. This newer TT (her RV) is going to need something because our generator (older Honda) runs on gas and our tow vehicle is diesel. So now I'll have to carry along gas and if we stay longer (1 week is about our camping time at one place) I'll be bringing lots of gas and cans. Solar would solve some of that situation.

NinerBikes said... if your unit does not have all LED lights inside, change those all out first from incandescents."

Yep, bank account shows I did that. But those LED's must be one of the best things that happened to RV's, after installing them.

I did not know solar was as cheap as people commented here, that's a good thing IMO.

Thanks



Tell us more about the LED's you installed.

Cost and supplier?

Thx!


Stopped in at our regular RV guy after picking up TT at another RV dealer and bought what was on the shelf "green long life" 250 lum at over $20.00 each. Adds up quick, That's what I meant by "bank account shows I did that". They replaced the 921 and never had a problem and like them in our Majestic, so we went with Green ling life again.

Thanks for all the response's. I've leaned a lot.
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"

JiminDenver
Explorer
Explorer
That's why one of my concepts is cover the roof and fill the battery bay from the start. As long as there is room, some of us will always wonder just how much more we could do if we filled it.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Solar is addictive. The amount of solar you will grow to use is enough to almost completely cover the roof.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

bukzin
Explorer
Explorer
path1 wrote:
ewarnerusa wrote:
Sounds like the OP hasn't even taken their camper out camping yet.


Absolutely true. Got in home and took care of big stuff... changed out tires, pulled hubs and bearings, load up wives stuff and about ready to use first time.

My posting was an interest in solar because wife runs down batteries in our little Majestic when it's cold out. It is like 1 night 1 battery. This newer TT (her RV) is going to need something because our generator (older Honda) runs on gas and our tow vehicle is diesel. So now I'll have to carry along gas and if we stay longer (1 week is about our camping time at one place) I'll be bringing lots of gas and cans. Solar would solve some of that situation.

NinerBikes said... if your unit does not have all LED lights inside, change those all out first from incandescents."

Yep, bank account shows I did that. But those LED's must be one of the best things that happened to RV's, after installing them.

I did not know solar was as cheap as people commented here, that's a good thing IMO.

Thanks



Tell us more about the LED's you installed.

Cost and supplier?

Thx!
2006 Monaco Diplomat 41'
Cummins 400hp ISL CM850