HWH 325A Circuit Board

[eric1514]

Hi all,

Has anyone removed the circuit board from the control box on an HWH leveling system? Mine is a 325a system and I can see, and have removed, 2 screws from the bottom edge of the board but it is still attached very tightly to the inside of the metal control box. There are 4 or 5 large multi-pin connectors coming in the back of the metal box and I imagine the connectors attach to pins on the board, but I'm not sure. As it has proven difficult (impossible) to undo these connectors, I would like someone who has done this to let me know if that is the way to proceed. I don't want to break anything and make a bad situation worse.

Thanks,
Eric

[eric1514]

Also, I found a large capacitor with a broken leg. I might have broken it. Took the board and the capacitor down to my local electronics supply place and he soldered a new one on for me. I described what the board is and he doubted that the capacitor was the problem. He touched up some solder joints and removed a large relay that aligned with the non functioning jack and put it back.

At home, I touched up some more solder connections and removed the relay that runs the bad jack and the one next to it. I was going to swap them to see it the problem also got swapped but I got confused and couldn’t remember which was which. A senior moment.

Any who, put everything back in and it all works. Yay. I don’t know why, but it does. I’m a happy camper.

[eric1514]

So, for the archives, it helps to be smarter than the connectors you're trying to separate. The clips with hooks are not meant to be lifted. You are supposed to squeeze them in and then the connector will come out. They're hooked like that just to stab your fingers so they can get very sore putting pressure on them. The part that actually locks the two pieces together is buried deep within.

Thanks for your help guys,
Eric

[eric1514]

I think you’re right. It’s probably glued on with years of grime. I’ll try and get some solvent, maybe brake clean, in there and keep wiggling it.

Thanks.

[opnspaces]

the picture definitely helps. It's nothing like the connector I was thinking about. I think you are correct that the plug goes to the brown piece and the brown piece to the board. from the look the two parts are just stuck together with years of grit and grime.

I would start with finding a way to clean all the dirt off so you can see what yo are dealing with. An air compressor, a can of computer duster, even a strong stream of water should help. If you have compressed air try blasting it directly into the joint perimeter to break the years of crud between he two halves.

You might be able to loosen it by GENTLY taping on the plug to seat it further into the socket. Then try to unplug it. If it was mine I would try a combination of WD40 and a stream of compressed air to force the WD into the joint.

Maybe try to use a channel-lok pliers laying sideways to grab the top and bottom of the plug and wiggle it loose.

Once you get it unplugged it looks like there are little tabs top and bottom. Depress these tabs to allow the brown socket to drop back through the metal plate.

[eric1514]

This is a shot of the connector, CN2. The smaller brown part attached to the orange part with the wires sticking out of it is what I'm trying to pull out. The larger brown part is screwed onto the back of the silver metal box that holds the PC board. I'm just unclear on what's supposed to happen here because I can't find a picture of the other side of the piece I'm yanking on.

I think, the smaller brown part I'm tugging on is not directly connected to the back of the PC board. Instead It connects to the larger brown piece which in turn connects to the PC board. This is done to protect the board from the elements, I think.

Basically, I was hoping someone who has done this can reassure me. I scared because I think that PC board is made of unobtainium and I don't want to crack it. I think I can fix it if I can remove it.

[opnspaces]

Are you able to slide a small flatblade screwdriver blade between the connector and the board to help pop it off? Just pry slowly and gently so you don't scratch up the board.

[eric1514]

Yup. Here's quote from that section

"If the YELLOW and RED LED’s are lit check the correct pins
in the BROWN CN2 connector for +12 and ground. If +12
or ground is not present replace the control box."

All the LEDs are lit but I do not have +12 at pin 5 of the connector. It's telling me to replace the control box, which is essentially the PC board. Before I buy one, if I can buy one, I want to try and see if I can perform a simple fix. Either way, I need to remove those connectors.

[enblethen]

Read through section 4d?

[eric1514]

enblethen wrote:
Connections in the connector could have arced and welded them together! Just thinking!
As you probably saw, C1 connector is main power!
What is issue with your jacks?

The left rear jack will not respond. When I push the extend button for the rear jacks only the right one will move. If I switch the wires on the solenoids, I can make the left one extend but now the right one won't.

I've probed the circuit board at the CN2 connector and pin 5, which is the +12v signal for the solenoid on the LR jack reads 0 volts when the button is pushed. Pins 8, 9 and 10 which provide +12v to the other 3 jacks measure correctly. I've verified there is a good ground at the connector.

The LEDs light up correctly.

I don't know where to go from here except to remove the board and inspect it looking for broken traces or solder joints. That's why I need to remove the connectors.

Eric

[enblethen]

Connections in the connector could have arced and welded them together! Just thinking!
As you probably saw, C1 connector is main power!
What is issue with your jacks?

[eric1514]

enblethen wrote:
MP85.2215 somewhat shows squeeze type retainers on the long side of some of the connectors and one indicates a spring type latch retainer.
Manual

Thanks for that. The CN2 connector is the only one I've tried to remove. The top latch is missing and I can undo the bottom one but the connector just won't budge. Some of the problem is the awkward angle I'm forced to work at. I guess I'll just have to try harder. It seems the PC board is faulty and if I can get a replacement or have this one repaired, all those connectors need to come off. Ugh.

I've looked through every service doc I can find at HWH and none of them discuss removing that PC board. I guess it's not the big deal I think it is.

Thanks again,
Eric

[enblethen]

MP85.2215 somewhat shows squeeze type retainers on the long side of some of the connectors and one indicates a spring type latch retainer.
Manual