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Install 50A Outlet at Electric Meter

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
My electric meter is stand alone on a post close to my driveway where my 5th wheel is parked, near the left rear RV corner in my sig picture. I originally thought about having a 20a outlet installed there for my 30a RV for easy of plugging in and maybe running the AC on muggy days. I have no AC in the house and currently run the heaviest extension cord I could find to do this, but it is in harm's way where it can be run over by delivery trucks or lawn mowers. It occurred to me that I could probably have a 50a outlet installed at the meter instead for the incremental cost of parts and labor. Then I would use a 50a to 30a adapter for my current RV and have a 50a outlet for a future RV.
How big a deal is it to install an outlet at an electric meter? Obviously, the electric company will be involved to shut off power and reconnect, and I would provide the electrician with a 50a RV wiring diagram.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
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35 REPLIES 35

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,

It depends if there is room for expansion at the meter socket. Many locations require the ability to have two 2 pole circuit breakers at the meter panel socket location. Of course the 100 - 200 amp breaker for the house, and a second breaker for the well pump. I guess if the house catches fire, and the main 100 amp breaker trips, they do not want you to not be able to take a drink to cool your sorrows. So if you have a space for a 30 - 50 amp 2 pole 'well pump' you are lucky, and should be able to install a second breaker there, and power your RV.

It would take a electrician coming out and inspecting the location, and giving you a 'free estimate' to find out. Of course most do not want to spend $10 on fuel and have 1 hour not billed to any job, so they will want something to come take a look. Many charge $150 for the first hour, and then $75 an hour after that.

Pictures of the panel will really help.

Normally the electric company is not involved at all. It is considered "After the meter" and they will not come out to remove the meter, and re-install it after the electrical work is completed. Normally I would install a circuit breaker "Live" as I would not be touching any of the energized electrical parts if I do it right, and there is normally no need to turn off the power to the house.

Good luck,

Fred.
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time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
SkiSmuggs wrote:
Tapping power is the problem. I will probably talk to my electric company first and an electrician after that.
Not really a problem. Worst case you add a subpanel to split off the 50 amp. Everything after the meter is yours to modify.

Slam dunk for any decent electrician. Or even a skilled DIY.
Best to get a city permit either way.

mgirardo
Explorer
Explorer
SkiSmuggs wrote:
I will post a picture of the pedestal after I get home from work today.


A picture will be helpful. Our meter has a panel on the customer side. On the customer side, there is the 200 amp main service disconnect and there are several slots to add breakers. This is separate from the main panel located in the garage.



Yes, that is a smart meter. However, the panel originally contained an old school meter. The smart meter has been there for a few years. As you can see, there are 4 slots for circuit breakers.

Edited to add: Just remove the panel on the right to access the buss bar and add the breaker.

-Michael
Michael Girardo
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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
SkiSmuggs wrote:

....I still need to tap into power and the meter pedestal is 8' from the power connection on the RV. The pedestal is not commercial but simply a board mounted on two posts so adding an RV park box should be no problem. Tapping power is the problem. I will probably talk to my electric company first and an electrician after that.


The electric company will probably go HUH?. Then you will be transferred from one person to another and they will all go HUH? After an hour of being transferred from one person to another you still won't have an answer.

Just contact a local electrician you trust, this has nothing to do with the electric supplier.
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MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
What we are all saying
Is there has to be circuit breakers between the meter and the outlet
If your meter mount box does not have them
It will have to be replaced with one that does
Whether you want an RV pedestal or just a box with an outlet
You still need circuit breakers aka service disconnect
The 8ft distant is nothing, use your shore cord
Would not make any difference if it was 40 ft or 2 ft
You still must have circuit breakers / disconnect
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
westernrvparkowner wrote:
MrWizard wrote:
Yes he could have a different meter base with breakers included installed
Provided local code allows this, and the utility company was willing to okay it
But that was not the original question
The answer to op is no
Are there things that can be done ? Yes
But it will need a complete change out. Of the meter housing
Not a simple attachment of an outlet
At least in Montana and Texas, the meter base is the responsibility of the property owner and the utility company provides the meter. You can do anything you want, subject to electrical codes, past the meter. If the current meter base is not conducive to adding services a new one is a couple of hundred bucks. An electrical permit would probably be required, but the actual work should be pretty easy. Personally, I would install a regular RV pedestal, which would give you 50/30/20 amp connections. You should be able to find one for less than $300.00 Lots more flexibility at very little additional cost.

That is the plan, but I still need to tap into power and the meter pedestal is 8' from the power connection on the RV. The pedestal is not commercial but simply a board mounted on two posts so adding an RV park box should be no problem. Tapping power is the problem. I will probably talk to my electric company first and an electrician after that.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

westernrvparkow
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
Yes he could have a different meter base with breakers included installed
Provided local code allows this, and the utility company was willing to okay it
But that was not the original question
The answer to op is no
Are there things that can be done ? Yes
But it will need a complete change out. Of the meter housing
Not a simple attachment of an outlet
At least in Montana and Texas, the meter base is the responsibility of the property owner and the utility company provides the meter. You can do anything you want, subject to electrical codes, past the meter. If the current meter base is not conducive to adding services a new one is a couple of hundred bucks. An electrical permit would probably be required, but the actual work should be pretty easy. Personally, I would install a regular RV pedestal, which would give you 50/30/20 amp connections. You should be able to find one for less than $300.00 Lots more flexibility at very little additional cost.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Yes he could have a different meter base with breakers included installed
Provided local code allows this, and the utility company was willing to okay it
But that was not the original question
The answer to op is no
Are there things that can be done ? Yes
But it will need a complete change out. Of the meter housing
Not a simple attachment of an outlet
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Rollnhome
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with Mr. Wizard to a point. Some pedestals have room for breakers and weatherproof receptacles. Depends on pedestal.
On the service side mine has 200 amp breakers to main house panel. 50 amps to RV outlet. 30 amp to shed sub panel and two 15 amp vacant or spares. All legally permitted and inspected.
2008 Discovery 40X towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee

SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
This is a real simple answer
Any outlet must feed from your breaker panel
You cannot and will not be allowed to connect any outlet directly to the meter output
It must come from your circuit breaker service panel
That is the electric code everywhere in the USA

I have seen meter sockets with breakers while researching on the internet and I suspect that may solve the issue. Pretty sure there are no breakers or customer access buss on mine for now. The only electrician I've contacted said he would have to look at it and never showed up, so I'll be waiting until spring to try again.
I also wonder if the outbound feed (there are two; one to the house and one to out buildings) can be tapped for a breaker box.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar

john_bet
Explorer II
Explorer II
SkiSmuggs wrote:
My electric meter is stand alone on a post close to my driveway where my 5th wheel is parked, near the left rear RV corner in my sig picture. I originally thought about having a 20a outlet installed there for my 30a RV for easy of plugging in and maybe running the AC on muggy days. I have no AC in the house and currently run the heaviest extension cord I could find to do this, but it is in harm's way where it can be run over by delivery trucks or lawn mowers. It occurred to me that I could probably have a 50a outlet installed at the meter instead for the incremental cost of parts and labor. Then I would use a 50a to 30a adapter for my current RV and have a 50a outlet for a future RV.
How big a deal is it to install an outlet at an electric meter? Obviously, the electric company will be involved to shut off power and reconnect, and I would provide the electrician with a 50a RV wiring diagram.
Your last sentence has all the info you need. Your electric utility is the boss in this case. Period. All cases are different.
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MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
This is a real simple answer
Any outlet must feed from your breaker panel
You cannot and will not be allowed to connect any outlet directly to the meter output
It must come from your circuit breaker service panel
That is the electric code everywhere in the USA
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Rollnhome
Explorer
Explorer
Open the customer service pedestal door. You should see 100 or 200 amp breakers. Close to them are knockout for additional breakers. You should be able to install your two 50 amp breakers and possibly wire an external weather proof 50 amp RV plug to the outside of the pedestal. An electrician could tell you for sure and could probably install it in a couple hours easy.
2008 Discovery 40X towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
I have a minor suggestion for selecting a RV service box and yes this comes from an experienced electrician who screwed up. It will cost very little to have a proper panel. You will find it very convenient to have a panel with a disconnect for the incoming service. The 30amp RV box I bought doesn't have one and my breaker is not a switching breaker so most often I have to disconnect the shore line while it is under power. No burn marks on the plug blades as of now, so in the very near future I am putting in a new box and a fifty amp 240 breaker.

I really need to because the DW gave me permission to find us a newer rig next month.
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SkiSmuggs
Explorer
Explorer
KJINTF wrote:
Yes it can be done - each installation is a bit different
Might want to add a few additional outlets when doing the job

I added to my "Power Pedestal / aka Meter Pedestal" a single 120/240Vac 50amp, a single 120Vac 30amp, and two 120Vac 20amp connections. Sure makes it easier when needing power and GREATLY reduces the chance of running over extension cords with the lawn mowers.

Yeah, I already thought an additional 20A would be nice. I will post a picture of the pedestal after I get home from work today.
2015 F350 XLT PSD 6.7 Crew Cab, Andersen Ultimate hitch
2012 Cougar High Country 299RKS 5th wheel, Mor/Ryde pinbox, 300w of solar