Installing a 120V-30amps outlet

[dodgeramman123]

I want to install a 120v-30amp RV receptacle on the outside wall of my vinyl covered garage. I've read on how to wire it, and understand that well. I would like to know what kind of weather proof box should I use for it? I want it looking decent. Thanks in advance!!!

[myredracer]

I don't think many want to, or will, walk all the way inside their unit wherever the panel is and turn the breaker off. Then walk out to the where the recept. is and plug it in, and then traipse all the way back in again to turn the breaker back on. And then traipse all the way outside again to continue setting up camp. I know it's technically within the realm of being possible, but I've never read about anyone actually doing that. I'd much rather be able to turn the power off right where I am plugging in. They do make switching duty (SWD) breakers but AFIK, not in 30 amps.

You can get away without shutting the power for a while, but you are setting yourself up for eventually having overheating plugs/receptacles to the point where they go up in smoke, potentially causing lots of damage.

Standard breakers are not rated specifically for switching duty, but they do take a lot more "abuse" from live make/break operations. A cord and plug will not last very long in comparison. Breakers in CG pedestals are standard thermal magnetic type, are switched all the time yet are not rated for switching duty, but the pedestals are safety approved (UL, CSA). I saw a brand new pedestal last year that had a factory label on it to shut power off before energizing.

I used a 30 amp motor rated disconnect switch at our dedicated RV outlet. These are designed for thousands of make/break operations which for motors is up to around 6 times running current. A dedicated breaker at your home for an RV is perfectly fine for the infrequent use it gets compared to a CG pedestal.

KOA says you should turn the breaker off before plugging in and unplugging. KOA and pedestals

[Gdetrailer]

NinerBikes wrote:

randallb wrote:
Don't screw around. Install something similar to the RVU75C listed on rvpoweroutlet.com. Where you buy it does not matter to me I am just using them for an example. If you do it this way you will be set for any future upgrade you may make. Since the box is wired inside all you have to do is run your 6 or 8/3 NM from a 50 or 60A breaker in your main panel, mount your box and plug in. It is quick easy and you will be happier in the long run.
Randy

/\ The circuit breaker at the box is important for saving your plug. You should use the circuit breaker to disconnect before removing the plug, and turn it off before plugging in, then turn the circuit breaker on. Circuit breaker points are designed for it, your plug prongs and female terminal are not, and will get burned over time, connecting and disconnecting to a hot circuit. Let the circuit breaker points bear the load.

You DO realize that YOUR TRAILER HAS A MAIN CIRCUIT BREAKER FOR THE SHORE CORD built in?

So really a dedicated breaker at the RV30A outlet is not all that necessary as long as you always remember to turn the MAIN breaker in the trailer off each time BEFORE you disconnect.

The only reason I put a breaker near my RV outlet was for the fact that I wanted to add and a 20A outlet to the same box. I use the 20A outlet/circuit to run a hedge trimmer, power tools plus a dusk to dawn yard light. Cuts down on dragging 100ft of 12ga extension cord around the yard to reach things..

So, I ran ONE run of 10ga wire into a small breaker panel and in the breaker panel I have one 30A breaker for the trailer and one 20A breaker for the 20A outlet.. I didn't want to power the 20A outlet directly with 30A from the house and I had the breaker panel and breakers laying around..

By the way, pretty much all home type breakers ARE NOT RATED for "switching" use.. In other words using a breaker like a light switch WILL cause premature failure of said breaker. 20A and 30A breakers are not all that expensive at $7-$10 but 50A double pole breakers start to get pricy..

[Ron3rd]

RV stores, Camping World, and some big box (Lowes, Home Depot) carry the box for the rv plug. Many at the RV stores come with the 30a RV plug.

[dodgeramman123]

Many thanks to all of you who posted on my Posting. I really do have a much better understanding of it, since visiting this forum. And yes, I will get a single 120V/30amp breaker. Thanks again, and Happy Trails to you guys!!!

[j-d]

Just make Sure Fire, Drop Dead, CERTAIN that you are wiring it with ONE HUNDRED TWENTY VOLTS!!! You sound like you understand it but SO many have wired the 120/30 outlet to a 240V source (paired breakers) that it isn't funny. Isn't funny at all, and professionals have done this. Devastating damage to circuits and appliances in the RV. SINGLE 30A Breaker!

[NinerBikes]

randallb wrote:
Don't screw around. Install something similar to the RVU75C listed on rvpoweroutlet.com. Where you buy it does not matter to me I am just using them for an example. If you do it this way you will be set for any future upgrade you may make. Since the box is wired inside all you have to do is run your 6 or 8/3 NM from a 50 or 60A breaker in your main panel, mount your box and plug in. It is quick easy and you will be happier in the long run.
Randy

/\ The circuit breaker at the box is important for saving your plug. You should use the circuit breaker to disconnect before removing the plug, and turn it off before plugging in, then turn the circuit breaker on. Circuit breaker points are designed for it, your plug prongs and female terminal are not, and will get burned over time, connecting and disconnecting to a hot circuit. Let the circuit breaker points bear the load.

[Dave_H_M]

Myself, I would not worry about another breaker at the box. I have a box without a breaker I use in the barn for going onto 14 years now. Been RVing for decades and always have just plugged in.

I am not arguing the theory just how i passed through this world.

[myredracer]

You should have either a housing with a breaker in it or a disconnect switch so that you do not plug in while energized. If you plug in live all the time, you will eventually end up damaging the cord's plug blades and the receptacle.

I used a 4x4 weatherproof PVC box for the recept. and mounted a weatherproof motor-rated disconnect switch (designed for higher make/break current) just below it. The hard part was splicing the #8 wire I used (to the panel) to #10 inside the PVC box for the switch due to limited space. All parts were relatively cheap at an electrical wholesaler.

[randallb]

Don't screw around. Install something similar to the RVU75C listed on rvpoweroutlet.com. Where you buy it does not matter to me I am just using them for an example. If you do it this way you will be set for any future upgrade you may make. Since the box is wired inside all you have to do is run your 6 or 8/3 NM from a 50 or 60A breaker in your main panel, mount your box and plug in. It is quick easy and you will be happier in the long run.
Randy

[Gdetrailer]

westend wrote:
If you use this type of Mounting block, you can install an RV-30 receptacle with mounting plate in the box. Home Depot also sells exterior boxes with "in use" covers.

If you want to flush mount(recess the box so it does not stick past the wall) the outlet you can simply use a STANDARD ELECTRICAL work box, The RV outlet WILL fit the work box.

If you want to SURFACE mount the box to the wall (box is screwed to the surface and the box will stick the entire depth of the box above the wall surface) then you simply use a STANDARD WEATHER PROOF OUTDOOR electrical box.

There is no need to buy special expensive boxes for this operation.

Once you have your choice of the electrical box you simply use the IN USE covers.

There are a variety of in use covers and some may or may not accommodate the size of a RV plug so you may need to shop around for one that works best..

This is my method and all parts can be easily obtained at your local Home Depot or Lowes.

The only thing I did differently is I used a double square box, one side mounted the 30A RV outlet and the other side I added a 20A duplex GFCI outlet. Both outlets are being fed by different breakers, since my setup is in the middle of my yard I ran underground wiring out to a pole then mounted a mini breaker box (weather proofed inside an old meter box I gutted out that someone gave me). The breaker box then feeds the outlets..

[westend]

If you use this type of Mounting block, you can install an RV-30 receptacle with mounting plate in the box. Home Depot also sells exterior boxes with "in use" covers.

[john_bet]

dodgeramman123 wrote:
I want to place it on the front of the garage, so I would like it to look like the one I installed their now, which is a 120V GFCI receptacle. I think I could use a regular outlet box, but was wondering what to use for a cover to protect it from the elements. Here is a pic of what I mean. I haven't been able to find one with the hole in it to fit the 120V-30amp outlet. Any suggestions will be appreciated.


http://www.filefactory.com/file/58fdpkp9rerx/New%2015amp%20receptacle.jpg

Finding an in-use cover for a 30amp plug may be rather hard. Check with an electric supply(wholesale) place. Better info than a big box store.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I saw that you read "how to do it" but here's a tip. Check voltages at the main breaker box from line 1 to neutral then line 2 to neutral. Select the line with the greater voltage. In a straight line, if the distance from the breaker to your outlet (receptacle) is greater than 40' I would consider using only 8AWG wire, absolutely nothing smaller (meaning no higher number gauge wire).

With breaker OFF, smear dialectric silicone grease on outlet terminals if you live where humidity gets 60& or higher.

[dodgeramman123]

I want to place it on the front of the garage, so I would like it to look like the one I installed their now, which is a 120V GFCI receptacle. I think I could use a regular outlet box, but was wondering what to use for a cover to protect it from the elements. Here is a pic of what I mean. I haven't been able to find one with the hole in it to fit the 120V-30amp outlet. Any suggestions will be appreciated.


http://www.filefactory.com/file/58fdpkp9rerx/New%2015amp%20receptacle.jpg