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Inverter/power advice

Byrogie
Explorer
Explorer
Dealing now on a new 5th wheel, and planning for power setup.
Will be on a dry permanent site. Unit has a residential fridge with factory 1000 watt dedicated inverter. Wanting to also power other outlets. Can I add another 1000 watt inverter for that, or get a bigger one to cover all? Any new inverter will be inverter/charger.
Looking at 4x6 volt batteries, and 530 watts solar, MPPT controller.
18 REPLIES 18

Byrogie
Explorer
Explorer
OK you got me. Decided to pass on this trailer, a lot of messing around and $$ for a fridge. I will continue my search.....

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
takes about 10 mintues to brew a pot coffee

just turn the fridge off while making coffee

open the door, turn the dial, hit the off switch, which ever
make coffee,

turn fridge back on

i did it for 7 yrs, its not hard to get into the routine
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

epfd217
Explorer
Explorer
We currently have a newer (2017) rig with the residential fridge and factory installed 1000w inverter. The inverter runs the fridge just fine, but only the fridge. You can't really plan power usage around the fridge compressor running.

Dual 1000w or adding a 1500w would be good. Otherwise I think having the fridge running and running the coffee pot would be a huge draw. A 2000w may not be enough.

I will echo everyone else with the initial concern, no residential fridge for a dry camping setup. Sounds like you're set on that so, I guess continue with your current plan and get an adequate power setup.

An RV residential fridge typically uses 100 a/hrs per day. Each unit is different but expect 100-120 a/h. The rest of the things in your rig add on to that. Coffee pot uses 15-20a per use. The rest of your usage is pretty incidental. You're looking at a minimum of 150 amps per day if you don't use the furnace. Using the furnace will push you over 200amps.

Four batteries would be the bare minimum just for power storage. That would allow you to discharge to 50% on 1.5 days of use and no solar.
Six would be better. Six batts gets you 2 days of power without recharging. I second the suggestion for building a battery box at the site and put an adequate number of batteries on the ground.

Solar. You use solar already so you understand the challenges at your elevation. I would be bigger than 600 watts.

The residential fridge is nice, but it REALLY SUCKS if you want to dry camp at all. I will not have a resi fridge again.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I would give it a go on the coffee maker as is. One time overload shutdown will not hurt anything.

Need to let the fridge rest a bit and then start it while the coffee is brewing. If you only have one or two batteries surge performance may suffer. The 4x GC2 and bigger wire may help.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Byrogie wrote:
Dealing now on a new 5th wheel, and planning for power setup.
Will be on a dry permanent site. Unit has a residential fridge with factory 1000 watt dedicated inverter. Wanting to also power other outlets. Can I add another 1000 watt inverter for that,...

Yes, and it might be easier. How does the refrigerator switch from shore power to inverter power ?

Byrogie wrote:
Looking at 4x6 volt batteries, and 530 watts solar, MPPT controller.

The batteries sound reasonable, but I don't think you will have enough solar to recharge them. You will likely need to run a generator with a battery charger.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
With a residential fridge I would allow at least 1,000 watt to start the fridge (NOTES FOLLOW) and as noted if you want to nuke your lunch 2,000 for the rest.

Else the 1000 may be able to handle it or 1500 to be safe.

The note: There are a couple RV Fridges they are specifically designed for an RV fridge footprint and cut out. at least one Norcold and one Dometic, that are NOT absorption cooling (ELectric/Propane) but rather Compressor designes (Danfoss class compressors, NOTE; Do not know if they are actual danfoss since I don't have one) the do not need 120 volts,, Just 12, and only about 3-4 amps at 12 volts (.3 to .4 at 120) That's 36 to 50 watts folks.. Now if you want to go compressor. that's the way to do it in my book, They are expensive.. till you price modern residential fridges and then change your undies.

Finally batteries. MINIMIMUM 1 pair GC-2 per 1,000 watts.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Byrogie wrote:
the main question being is it better/easier to add a second 1000w inverter or get a 2000w to cover everything?
Choice 2. But, keep the 1000 on hand in case of failure of the 2kw. You don't want to lose the fridge.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Byrogie
Explorer
Explorer
Recently retired. Will be there 4/5 days a week from April through October. Winterize and shut down mid October. Get out a couple of days at a time in winter when a chinook is on.

Secondary devices are coffee pot, sometimes small fan, charging phones/tablet and power tools, the odd movie on tv. No microwave or hair dryer. Works well now with 1000w inverter and 200 watts solar.

There is no rough in for propane fridge, would need gas line, vents, power, housing, etc. Don't really want to go there........
The price is very good, there is lots $$$ left for power requirements.

I have a generator and not scared to use it.
Will analyze requirements closer, but the main question being is it better/easier to add a second 1000w inverter or get a 2000w to cover everything?

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Do an energy audit. I don't think 530 watts of solar will meet the needs of a residential fridge.

Battery may need to be large enough to meet 3 days of use.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
Res fridge would be fine if this is a weekend warrior type retreat? Turn it on when you arrive, turn it off when you leave, solar keeping the batteries topped up the rest of the time.

Need more details, not enough to go on here.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Byrogie wrote:
Maybe I should have said seasonal site, the trailer will be parked there through the winter.
Water and pump services are available.
Mostly parked for storage?

Are you saying fridge off and winterized and you might visit for the weekend once a month?

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Byrogie wrote:
add another 1000 watt inverter for that, or get a bigger one to cover all? .
Depends on what you plan to run.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Totally agree with BFL. Resi fridges are fine for their intended use but boon docking under those conditions will be a lot more bother with one. I would definitely go with the PP fridge.
If you do keep the resi fridge, don't count on pulling a lot of power from its inverter. It will be busy starting that big fridge.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
BTDT here on the Island for the sunny half of the year.

You should not get that res fridge! Your life will be so much more enjoyable with a propane fridge so you can relax. Very serious about that. Res fridge is only for when on shore power or a couple days off grid. Not for several days and longer off grid.

Just get one of those giant propane bottles delivered and the propane truck comes by once in a long while as needed.

Even so, as said above you want a 2000w or more inverter to run the MW (pulls 130 or more DC amps) A 1000 will just barely run a toaster (pulls 90 DC amps.)
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