Inverter recommendations. Updated.

[Camp__Forrest__]

Update. I was in Harbor Freight today and saw a 750W (continuous) inverter for $47.99 so I thought I'd give it a shot. I connected it to the terminals in the power distribution center, turned on every light, fan, furnace and water pump in the camper and tested it. Even with the low voltage alarm screeching on the inverter, the TV stayed on without a hiccup. I'll wire it in more permanently this winter.

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Hello, I just picked up a new camper (2000 Arctic Fox 1150) and I would like to add an inverter. In my old camper, I stuck a low-quality, 1500W inverter in one of the cabinets, wired it to the 12V posts on the power distribution panel, and ran a 3' wire to an outlet under one of the cabinets. When I wanted to run the TV or charge the phones, I would flip it on and plug in. Easy-peasy! The one complaint I had was the noise from the cooling fan.

For the new camper, I would like one that is silent or at least very quiet. I have a generator now so I no longer need to use my inverter to power a microwave or coffee maker. I think a 500W RMS inverter will do the job since I only need to run a laptop, a small TV, or charge phones. I would like to do the same install I did in the old camper.

Here's where you come in. I bought a Stanley FatMax 450W(?) inverter and used the included clips to hook it to the posts on the distribution panel. I had a full charge, but every time the water pump went on, the TV shut off. The indicator light on the inverter did not indicate any problems. I never had this issue with the old inverter, even when the batteries were weak. Do you guys think it was a poor inverter, or are the new inverters more picky on dirty power? Perhaps there is another explanation?

If you have a recommendation for an inexpensive ($50 - $75) inverter that would do the job, let me know.

[Camp__Forrest__]

My problem with wiring the inverter directly to the battery is that the wire to the inverter would be very long. I would literally need to run about 20ft of wire and there isn't an easy place to stash it.

[ken_white]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Wire the unit directly to the battery posts. Use the shortest possible run for the DC side, without the inverter being in the same compartment as the battery bank.

X2... but the inverter can be in the same physical space as long as the batteries are in their own vented box within the space and vented to the outside.

[landyacht318]

Quieter fans exist. Often the fans used are bulk afterthought sleeve bearing fans.

But an inverter that is capable of changing fan speed according to load is a good thing.

[Camp__Forrest__]

I appreciate the feedback.

I guess I'm really trying to figure out why it wasn't an issue in my old rig but it is a problem here. I am actually using the same exact batteries (I transferred my dual 6V), they were fully charged, it is a typical water pump, and the multicolor LED on the inverter indicates that all is well. I am wondering if the fluctuations in voltage when the pump is running are being transmitted through the inverter and the TV doesn't like it.

The only real difference is the inverter. When I bought the last one, I literally bought the cheapest one that the auto parts store had.

[time2roll]

Put the clamps on the battery main connection... not the 15 amp branch posts.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Wire the unit directly to the battery posts. Use the shortest possible run for the DC side, without the inverter being in the same compartment as the battery bank.

[2oldman]

That inverter looks like a Walmart special. Cheap and probably highly overrated.

You need to up your budget to around $150 to get something quiet and reliable.

[BFL13]

The voltage sag when the water pump came on was enough to shut off the inverter (10.5a shut off? ) powering the TV. Use fatter wires from inverter to the DC panel battery lugs so there is less voltage sag (because fat wires have lower resistance than thin wires over the same length)