Inverter wiring setup

[lafester]

Hello all. I am new but have read many posts on this subject already and wanted to post my setup idea here to see if it sounds right.

My rig is a small Fleetwood Prowler 717B hybrid travel trailer.

99% of my camping is boondocking.

Battery is a new Duracell Ultra Marine size 31 (115 amp hour). Planning to upgrade to 2 golf carts in a couple years but that will require a whole new battery storage solution.

Converter is Itelipower 9100 40 amp (with smart charger) about to be wired to it's own circuit. (15 amp breaker)

I am pulling the microwave on to it's own circuit. (15 amp breaker)

A/C has it's own circuit but am not sure of the fridge yet. Hoping they are on the same. (20 amp breaker)

There are only 4 outlets left on on the last circuit which I want to power from shore (30 amp) or generator (20 amp 2600 watt) and inverter (10 amp auto switch/1200 watt). (15 amp breaker).

I am purchasing:

AIMS Power PWRIX120012S 1200W Pure Sine Inverter with Transfer Switch

High Quality 1/0/4/8 Gauge ANL Fuse Holder + 2 Pack Nickel 150 Amp 150A Fuse

Space Age Electronics SSU-PAM-1 Ssupam1 Relay Encapsulated

Already have:

2 gauge wire for battery hookup
4 wire romex from a house project

Plan is to run 2 gauge to the power side of the battery shunt, then from the battery side to the negative battery pole removing the old higher gauge wire (approx 2 feet total). Then run 2 gauge to the 150 amp fuse and then to the positive battery pole. I believe I also need to run a ground wire from the inverter to the frame.

Then pull the romex from the breaker to the outlet chain and replace with a romex line running to the power in on the inverter. Then remove that unused romex line from the outlet (first in chain).

Next wire the power output line from the inverter to that outlet.

I want the converter to auto switch so I got the space age relay (120 volt 10 amp). Hook up the black and white wire to the outlet breaker that is now wired to the inverter and then pull the black wire on the converter breaker and run it through the relay (always off wiring). Not 100% sure on this setup.

Hopefully all of that makes sense. Price is the main factor here and for pure sine wave this is the cheapest per watt for a name brand inverter and as a bonus has the transfer switch.

Just looking for feedback on the setup, also would like to make a bypass for the inverter for when/if it fails but not sure how to do that. I realize I can just pull the in/out romex and nut it together if things go bad but would like avoid that if possible.

I know for my battery power this is overkill but am planning ahead, and smaller does not really mean lower cost in this case. I have a remote start generator and battery monitor so I can fire it up easily when the amps/volts get low.

[pianotuna]

lafester,

It is your choice of course. But be aware that inverters die when not cooled down--or even occasionally catch on fire. DAMHIK.

The best inverters are about 88% efficient. So running the 1200 watts "flat out" produces about 144 watts of heat. That heat needs to be dissipated. Think about trying to take a 100 watt bulb out of a socket when it has been on for an hour. You would certainly wish to have a cool down period. In the case of the inverter--leave it on for some period of time with no load.

[lafester]

pianotuna wrote:
Make sure you do a cool down before switching to shore power. I hope there is good ventilation for the inverter.

Are you saying the fans run constantly?

Cool down? That would kind of defeat the purpose of the transfer switch.

Yes, the fans run when on inverter power. Just have to remember to shut it down or plug in when not in use. Usually plugged in at home to maintain the battery. I knew this going in as it is the #1 complaint on amazon. Some mention making a switch for the fans but I have no idea how that would work.

It has plenty of room and it's normally fairly cool up in the mountains. If it gets hot I can prop the door open.

[pianotuna]

Make sure you do a cool down before switching to shore power. I hope there is good ventilation for the inverter.

Are you saying the fans run constantly?

[lafester]

Getting 120 volts off shore and 118 off inverter if I read the meter correctly.
Ran a small dirt devil vacuum (floor was dirty anyway) 750 start up watts and 625 running with no trouble. That is probably the most power I would ever feed through my current battery so I think I'm good.

If anyone wants pics I can post a few.

[lafester]

Got it all wired up and it seems to be working good. Still need to run a few tests to make sure I'm getting good voltage and do some high watt testing.

Fans are a little loud near the unit but not bad when it is all enclosed. Idle amp draw + a small usb charger powering my battery monitor display was 1.8 amps. Switched over fine to shore power and the fans turn off at that point.

My little fridge only draws 165 watts so that was nice to see.

I did manage to cram the wiring into the inverter box but it sure was a tight fit. Actually kind of surprised the nuts held on.

[lafester]

Thanks guys. Already have the power negative ready to go. Ran a 10 gauge wire for the inverter chassis ground to the frame.

Tomorrow when the inverter gets here I'm pretty much ready to wire it in and test.

[MrWizard]

Inverter negative power wire should goto battery attach at shunt where frame ground is
Everything negative in and out of the battery should be attached at the out side of the shunt so all current goes thru shunt
Solar negative, converter negative, inverter negative
All power has to go thru the shunt

Electrically it is possible to use the RV frame if done correctly
But it puts more connections in the negative circuit and use's the steel RV frame for inverter power instead of copper wire
So it better to use wire for the inverter negative all the way to the battery
Just like for the positive
Just get the connection on the correct end of shunt

[time2roll]

Yes the chassis ground should connect the inverter to the RV frame independent of the current carrying conductors.

Lockout device prevents two sources connecting to one load. If you have a transfer switch and a manual switch it is very easy to back feed the panel and create a hazard. NEC requires a lockout device to disable the inverter power source when the manual switch is flipped. More common to find this device when back feeding a main panel with a generator.

Google image

[lafester]

Have a quick grounding question. Currently the battery negative goes through a shunt to the frame.

Do I leave the battery ground to the frame and run another from the inveter chassis to the frame?

Thanks!

[lafester]

time2roll wrote:
I agree with no switch. Really needs a lockout device to comply with NEC.

Also wire nuts I listed above would technically need to be in a J-box.

Lockout device?
Have not seen this mentioned before.

Probably going to get a box for the wiring as all the pics I have seen of this inverter show very little room in the provided box. They have everything nutted outside just hanging there.

[lafester]

Thanks for all new feedback, much appreciated. Going to think about both options for awhile before deciding if I even want to bother with a bypass.

Playing with the 2 gauge now looking at how it is going to feed into the battery box from the inverter location.

[time2roll]

I agree with no switch. Really needs a lockout device to comply with NEC.

Also wire nuts I listed above would technically need to be in a J-box.

[pianotuna]

Thanks for the correction Time2roll.

I'd still go with plugs.

[time2roll]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

You need a 30 amp switch or better. It is far cheaper to get male and female plugs and idiot proof.

lafester wrote:
Just read a post on another forum describing a 20 amp dpdt switch install to bypass the inverter.

Depends on the breaker rating. This is after the panel so probably 15 or 20 amp protected.