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Jackhammering water pump

emcee
Explorer
Explorer
The Shurflo model 2088 water pump in my 2003 Tioga 23e is extremely loud. The installation manual recommends at least 1ft. of flexible high-pressure tubing to both ports and the pumps ports/strainer should not be connected to plastic or rigid pipe. So opened up the bathroom cabinet and found that Fleetwood ignored both of these suggestions. I want to install the flexible tubing. The problem is I've never seen the type of connectors used in this plumbing. See the picture linked below. How do those blue connectors work? I would like to come straight out of both sides of the pump with at least 12" of tubing as suggested. Ex. On the inlet side I would like to remove the two 90 degree elbows and put a loop from the pump to the blue connector. How do I transition from the flexible tubing to the rigid plastic stuff with the blue connectors?

26 REPLIES 26

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
down home wrote:
There are other types, of pumps than diaphram. I don't know why they don't seem to sell them, for RVs. Of course it would probably mean pressure tanks and valves but perhaps not.
Maybe some, of the Prevost and others, have a better idea.

Diaphragm pumps are one of the few designs that can be run dry for extended periods without damage, and probably one of the lowest cost. That combination makes them pretty ideal for RV use.
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
Nature, of the beast. The first pump, in our Mh was near silent. The one they put back in pulses like others. A loop, of flexible, or rubber water line helps cushion it. If it is water hammer, they make a fitting or piece of pipe with an air cushion to eliminate it. A plumber knows what I'm talking about but I can't think, of the name, of it.There are other types, of pumps than diaphram. I don't know why they don't seem to sell them, for RVs. Of course it would probably mean pressure tanks and valves but perhaps not.
Maybe some, of the Prevost and others, have a better idea.

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
renoman69 wrote:
Those fittings are "Wirsbo Pex" fittings. The pipe and fitting are stretched with a special tool and then left to shrink back tight over the fitting. I am surprised to see them in an RV especially with those cheapo plastic fittings .

Wirsbo video


They are not Wirsbo fittings. They look are something new called Flair-it Pro. They are supposed to work with "all types" (they list about 5 different type in their installation video)of pex tubing. The blue or red collars slip over the pex and then the pex is slipped over the fitting barb. Then instead of the collar threading onto the fitting like regular Flair-it fittings there is a tool that slips over the fitting and collar and when squeezed the collar is pulled down over the fitting barb completing the joint.

Harvard
Explorer
Explorer


Notice how the OPs inlet line takes a vertical dive just before entering the filter. We have the same issue. When ever we allow the fresh water tank go empty this inlet line fills with air. After refilling the freash water tank, the vertical line causes an air trap and the only way to clear ALL THE AIR (IN OUR CASE) from the trap is to open two or more taps for the highest water flow possible.

Until all the air in the trap is cleared OUR PUMP makes a very bad scene, just like the OP described.

gb76087
Explorer
Explorer
I wonder what one could expect if you used the braided hoses.
2007 Fleeteood TERRA LX 34N
F53, 362hp V10

gijoecam
Explorer
Explorer
I know it's too late, but don't waste your money on the ShurFlo kit. Find a local Ace Hardware store, browse through the plumbing section, and find a pair of washing machine hoses in a bag on the bottom shelf. (The ones I got were white and 36" long, and IIRC less than $15) Then head to the fittings and get a couple of schedule-80 threaded close nipples. Take the hose off the outlet of the pump and rotate the fitting 90 degrees, then connect the nipple and a hose to the existing plumbing, then loop the rubber hose about two or three times in a loose loop, and connect it to the pump outlet.

This was the setup I used on our popup...

DSCN0023 by gijoecam, on Flickr

I did a similar setup on our current travel trailer, though I can't seem to find the pictures at the moment...

emcee
Explorer
Explorer
The silencer kit is installed and....it helped. Not exactly silenced but an exact guess would be about a 33% reduction in the noise level. I'll take it. Went from obnoxiously loud to about what you would expect. I recommend it.

renoman69
Explorer
Explorer
Those fittings are "Wirsbo Pex" fittings. The pipe and fitting are stretched with a special tool and then left to shrink back tight over the fitting. I am surprised to see them in an RV especially with those cheapo plastic fittings .

Wirsbo video
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ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
Silencing kit will help - but in my case I found that putting rubber foam material between the floor and the hose/connectors helped with the residual vibration. The other thing I did that helped was placing the water pump on top of a couple of old computer mouse pads.
Kevin

Monaco_Montclai
Explorer
Explorer
they say if u replace the hard water lines with flex hoses it helps a lot ---happy- camping

emcee
Explorer
Explorer
I ordered the Shurflo silencing kit and will report back after it's installed.

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
phillyg wrote:
I'd try isolating the pump on a set of rubber bushings before messing with the plumbing.

The pump already has rubber feet.

From the 2088 installation manual:

Choose a solid surface (thick plywood) that will not amplify pump operation. The mounting feet are intended to isolate the pump from the mounting surface; overtightening, flattening, or use of oversized
screws will reduce the ability to isolate vibration and noise through the lines.

SHURflo recommends at least 1ft. [.3 M] of ยฝ" [13mm] I.D. flexible high-pressure tubing to both ports.

The pumps ports/strainer should not be connected to plastic or rigid pipe.

The pump's normal vibration may transmit through rigid plumbing causing noise, and possibly loosen or crack components.


The manufacturer installed the pump INCORRECTLY -- the pump should not have been directly connected to rigid PEX as it is.

OP is totally correct in his plan to attach pump to flexible pipe.
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phillyg
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'd try isolating the pump on a set of rubber bushings before messing with the plumbing.
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RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Those fittings look just like "flair it" fittings, and prolly operate in the same manner, which is pushing the pex over the barb, then sliding the nut to the fitting and threading it onto the fitting, that then crimps the line where it was made larger from stretching it over the barb.

Not many know it, but you can use the 1/2" white drinking water hose in place of 1/2" pex on "flair it" fittings, just in the case 12" pcs mite be used to quiet the pump.

The beauty of "flair it" fittings, is that
every RV supply and hardware store in the country handles them
They need hand tighten only
They cannot leak
and they are reasonably priced.,
Rich

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