Leaving rv plugged into 120v to run convertor

[ernie1]

I leave my rv plugged into 120 v all the time that it's stored so that the Charge Wizard will maintain the charge on the house batteries. Is that not a good idea and am I wearing out the convertor?

[QuiGonJohn]

Harvard, what about when you are parked at a campsite and have the AC on 24/7 for anywhere from 2 to 14 days?

[time2roll]

oilcan wrote:
Well, I checked my system its a magnatek 6345.
Apparently not the best by todays standards, but gets the job done and the specs
say it changes charging amps depending on the current state of the battery.

Any one have experience with this mfr/model and what insights ?

Thanks

ps - sorry for the hijack

Best thing for a 6300 is to replace with a PD4600



http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-series-Upgrade-Kits_c_133.html

Others can be adapted also but the PD4600 is designed as a 6300 replacement.

[Harvard]

Our Parallax 7345 has destroyed batteries (bulging sides) when left on 24/7. We now use the battery disconnect and no 120VAC 24/7.

[BFL13]

The above is a good plan IMO. 13.8v is the proper Float voltage for about 50F and 13.2v is for about 80F, so in Florida 13.8v is likely too high and you would lose water too soon.

Taking the wire right off is better than just using the disconnect switch too. The LP/stereo draw stays on with that switch open in many cases, so the battery tender 1.5amper would have to handle that draw plus maintain the batts. Might not matter for those low amps though.

I float my batts here in winter with the 7355 where temps are below 50F and no water problems. Unfortunately, that doesn't take case of stratification, where that voltage is too low to keep the fluid even. To make up for that, I goose them to 15v every so often with my 1093 charger.

[QuiGonJohn]

Well, with my Parallax 7345, in the past, I only had the RV plugged into AC and the unit on, (with charge going to the battery), whenever we took it out, and usually a couple days prior, to get the fridge cold, etc.

From what some of you are saying, it sounds like that is the better way to go vs. leaving the RV plugged into AC and the Parallax always on the batteries.

But what I might do is when not using the RV, unhook the cables at the batteries and connect a Battery Minder, which from what I read, will do a great job of maintaining the batteries, and may even repair any damage sustained while the RV was in use (and the Parallax was handling the batteries). It may be a slight inconvenience to connect/disconnect each trip, but not too much of a hassle.

[RoyB]

The converter/charger units that put out a constant 13.6VDC are the killers. This is right at the boiling-out battery fluids point and if left "ON" for a long time will indeed boil out your battery fluids. Death of batteries is imminent when this happens. I would check the battery fluids on a regular basis when using this type of battery charger. I checked mine once a month sometimes sooner and kept them topped off with distilled water. I finally got my converter/charger unit changed out for the smart-mode multi-stage charging technology unit. This does all of the battery maintenance work for me now... Out of habit however I still check my battery fluids when walking around the trailer kicking tires etc...

Being an avid off the power grid camper my batteries are very important to me.
Gotta take care of your horse first my grandpa always told me...

Roy Ken

[RJsfishin]

The 6300 series Mag is a very poor charger, most are 3 amps max, and its not even a good converter, and it will cremate batteries in hot weather.

I don't know about option P, but a 7300 series converter, is a charger, and converter, but it will also cremate batteries in hot weather.

I know that a battery tender is a good maintainer 2 stage charger. It charges the batts to 14.4, holds it there for several hrs, then floats at 13.2. But its only 1.5 amps, not the best to use on a dead battery, even tho it will charge it in a couple days.

[QuiGonJohn]

Would leaving my RV plugged in be good for my setup.

My RV has (2)12V Optima AGM's, in parallel, for the coach/house batteries and my Converter/Charger is a Parallax Power Center Model 7345 with Option P (converter is original equipment on a 2006 RV).

Or could I add a Battery Minder into this setup. Or another option would be when the RV is parked beside the house, and not being used, unhook the batteries from the charger, (no AC to the coach either), and hookup a Battery Minder to the batteries.

I am looking to achieve maximum life from these new batteries.

[oilcan]

Well, I checked my system its a magnatek 6345.
Apparently not the best by todays standards, but gets the job done and the specs
say it changes charging amps depending on the current state of the battery.

Any one have experience with this mfr/model and what insights ?

Thanks

ps - sorry for the hijack

[john_bet]

George H wrote:
Been doing that for the last 7 years, our 05 is still going strong on original batteries.

X-2 and don't have a smart charger.

[RJsfishin]

Check the voltage at the battery or converter. If it never gets lower than 13.6, the converter is not very smart, and in warm weather will in time cremate the batteries, unless you watch the water closely. In colder temps, 13.6 - 14+ volts won't hurt the batts. My PD 9200 is always floating at 13.2-3
PD9100 series need the charge wizard added (plugged in) which makes it a 3-4 stage converter, and give manual control over the 3 stages
PD9200 series has the charge wizard built in, but still needs the charge "pendant" added (plugged in) to give manual control over the 3 stages.

[wolfe10]

As you can see from the answers, the reality is that IT DEPENDS.

If you have a smart converter you can leave it plugged in 24/7. But if a "dumb" converter, it can overcharge the batteries if left on 24/7.

[mena661]

oilcan wrote:


Thanks for the info.
Without a wizard is it not good to kepp plugged into shore power ???

You can but you'll need to check the water levels more often (maybe once a month).

[oilcan]

96Bounder30E wrote:

oilcan wrote:
How can I tell if I have a charge wizard ?? I have a '94 Damon C class and am worried that if I leave it plugged into shore it will shorten the life of my battery.

Find your converter and then find the model number.........unless your converter has been changed out......a 1994 RV would not have a charge wizard........


If you have a Progressive Dynamics(PD) converter then you probably have a PD-9055.......this model does not support the charge wizard........

A 9160 or a 9260 is charge wizard capable.......

Thanks for the info.
Without a wizard is it not good to kepp plugged into shore power ???