โMay-16-2015 09:29 PM
โMay-18-2015 12:36 PM
โMay-17-2015 10:49 PM
SCVJeff wrote:
I seriously doubt you will find a pass through unless you build it. I've not seen a board that is a real buck/boost in the literal term. You could always install a boost board to 20v (or whatever), then back it off with the board above. Those boards are so cheap it's fun to try different ones and combos
โMay-17-2015 09:50 PM
โMay-17-2015 05:58 PM
โMay-17-2015 04:37 PM
ledcomp wrote:GordonThree wrote:ledcomp wrote:GordonThree wrote:
How well do the LED perform at 9 volts? A straight buck converter would be easier to find than a boost-buck, forward or sepic converter.
Are you dimming all the leds in the rig, or just a strip of them, or a single fixture?
I was trying to regulate the lighting circuit at the distribution panel. 3 lighting fixtures have a pwm dimmer, the rest are not dimmed. I do not mind loosing some brightness by using a buck converter. I would need to try them at 9 volts, that might be on the low side.
A buck that goes into passthrough when vIN = vOUT would work. Set for 11v or even 12v you'll only see that voltage on an almost dead battery.
I have never seen a buck with passthrough. Do you know where i can get one?
โMay-17-2015 04:29 PM
โMay-17-2015 04:04 PM
GordonThree wrote:ledcomp wrote:GordonThree wrote:
How well do the LED perform at 9 volts? A straight buck converter would be easier to find than a boost-buck, forward or sepic converter.
Are you dimming all the leds in the rig, or just a strip of them, or a single fixture?
I was trying to regulate the lighting circuit at the distribution panel. 3 lighting fixtures have a pwm dimmer, the rest are not dimmed. I do not mind loosing some brightness by using a buck converter. I would need to try them at 9 volts, that might be on the low side.
A buck that goes into passthrough when vIN = vOUT would work. Set for 11v or even 12v you'll only see that voltage on an almost dead battery.
โMay-17-2015 03:49 PM
ledcomp wrote:GordonThree wrote:
How well do the LED perform at 9 volts? A straight buck converter would be easier to find than a boost-buck, forward or sepic converter.
Are you dimming all the leds in the rig, or just a strip of them, or a single fixture?
I was trying to regulate the lighting circuit at the distribution panel. 3 lighting fixtures have a pwm dimmer, the rest are not dimmed. I do not mind loosing some brightness by using a buck converter. I would need to try them at 9 volts, that might be on the low side.
โMay-17-2015 12:51 PM
SCVJeff wrote:GordonThree wrote:MY 9v LED arrays are built for 9v. These are flat panels that I stripped all the electronics off and drive them from the new regulator and dimmer. I suspect (unless you can rewire them?) your 12v arrays won't do well @9v.
How well do the LED perform at 9 volts? A straight buck converter would be easier to find than a boost-buck, forward or sepic converter.
Are you dimming all the leds in the rig, or just a strip of them, or a single fixture?
โMay-17-2015 12:40 PM
GordonThree wrote:MY 9v LED arrays are built for 9v. These are flat panels that I stripped all the electronics off and drive them from the new regulator and dimmer. I suspect (unless you can rewire them?) your 12v arrays won't do well @9v.
How well do the LED perform at 9 volts? A straight buck converter would be easier to find than a boost-buck, forward or sepic converter.
Are you dimming all the leds in the rig, or just a strip of them, or a single fixture?
โMay-17-2015 11:57 AM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
I use the $2.95 (8) amp dimmer as found on BuyInCoins.com
A 470uf 25-volt electrolytic capacitor inline BEFORE the dimmer helps.
โMay-17-2015 10:31 AM
GordonThree wrote:
How well do the LED perform at 9 volts? A straight buck converter would be easier to find than a boost-buck, forward or sepic converter.
Are you dimming all the leds in the rig, or just a strip of them, or a single fixture?
โMay-17-2015 09:36 AM
โMay-17-2015 09:22 AM
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Be SURE that adding a cap does NOT affect the voltage status of the converter. I forgot the Fred Flintstone grade ferroresonant converters did not die off when the asteroid hit.