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Lesson learned lol

Shwthomas1975
Explorer
Explorer
Well I pulled the rod out of the hot water heater the end of last season to drain the hot water tank. Seems I should have put back in after it was empty. I just tried to scare it back in and it is so corroded I canโ€™t get the threads to start. I write brushed both so they look ok, but I canโ€™t get it to start. Anyone have any suggestions???
Thanks in advance.
21 REPLIES 21

Dave H M wrote:
profdant139 wrote:
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.

And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.

Hope this helps!!


Is the way i do it and I occasionally "clean" the threads with the tap. ๐Ÿ˜‰


Heyyy, as long as it works, then all is well! I must have been holding my mouth wrong or something!
:B
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thomas, did you use the tap to cut new threads, or just to clean out the old ones? Thanks.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

Shwthomas1975
Explorer
Explorer
My buddy had the tap I needed. Worked like a charm. Again, thank you all so much.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
Shwthomas1975 wrote:
You guys are awesome. A tap would definitely help. Iโ€™ll call local hardware store to see if they have it, if not order from amazon. Thanks for the link. Are they all the same size? 3/4โ€ 14 npt? I use teflon tape with it usually. I have tried by hand, with socket, pliers etc. I can get it to the point where itโ€™s stick hand tight. Barely on the threads but then just slips right off.


All with an anode rod are that size. Be very careful getting a tap started, you don't want to start a new thread or crooked thread.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
joebedford wrote:
Better to use a thread chaser than a tap. You don't want to cut new threads.
You're pretty unlikely to cut much new thread. It becomes very hard to turn when it starts to cut. All you need to do is clean out the old threads.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Shwthomas1975
Explorer
Explorer
You guys are awesome. A tap would definitely help. Iโ€™ll call local hardware store to see if they have it, if not order from amazon. Thanks for the link. Are they all the same size? 3/4โ€ 14 npt? I use teflon tape with it usually. I have tried by hand, with socket, pliers etc. I can get it to the point where itโ€™s stick hand tight. Barely on the threads but then just slips right off.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
profdant139 wrote:
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.

And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.

Hope this helps!!


That works well, I lay paper towel over the socket end and jam the nut in, if it is loose I just add more paper. Tearing away excess lets you see better. After getting a good start, I pull the socket off and the paper falls away.

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Better to use a thread chaser than a tap. You don't want to cut new threads.

Johno02
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know any better, and someone will probably tell me its wrong, and why I should not do it, but after winter, when getting started again, I wirebrush the threads well, and put on a good wrapping of plumbers teflon tape on the threads. I always think that it makes a better seal, without having to over tighten, and makes it easier to remove at the end of the season. Sure, the tape is not electrically conductive, but there is still lots of metal to metal contact, which may or may not be required. Anyway, it has worked for me for over 15 seasons so far, with no problems.
Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)

2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife, and two silly poodles.

Dave_H_M
Explorer
Explorer
profdant139 wrote:
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.

And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.

Hope this helps!!


Is the way i do it and I occasionally "clean" the threads with the tap. ๐Ÿ˜‰

profdant139 wrote:
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.

And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.

Hope this helps!!


Problem with this is that the head of the rod will tip inside the socket, and you cannot see if it is going in straight.

I have tried this. It doesn't work.

If you hold it in your hand you can see and feel if it is starting to thread properly.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
parts store,or tool rental might have one to rent. we,have some mom pop plummers in my area they,d lone you one.

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.

And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.

Hope this helps!!
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

They can be tricky to get started sometimes. The weight of the rod tends to make it want to tip down.

Mine has been pretty corroded at times, but I have always managed to get it in.

Doesn't help with the various components in the way either.

I always start mine by hand, looking at it to make sure it is straight in and not cross threaded. You can tell by looking at it whether it is in straight or not. If you cross thread it and try cranking it in, you will mess up the threads. Then the above mentioned tap to chase the threads will become essential.

I have always used a stiff wire brush on the rod threads, and a small toothbrush sized wire brush on the tank threads.

Never had a problem that required a tap. If it comes out, it will go back in.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com