cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Loss of partial power

Gazelle05
Explorer
Explorer
Living in 05 Safari Gazelle,left this am everything was working fine. Returned to find no power to wash machine,furnace, water heater,toilet and all lights in the coach. Refrigerator,microwave all still working on ac power. Battery full charged. Generator when running does not correct the problem. Does this sound like battery cut off switch? inverter? all breakers and fuses ok. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
17 REPLIES 17

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
I discovered that the OP double posted this in the MH section also. He came back and offered more info in that thread.

He stated that it is now resolved and it was the salesman switch. I'm scratching my head over that.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

bstark
Explorer
Explorer
I'll make some additional assumptions based upon info given in O/P.

'O5' unit would; with options mentioned, almost certainly be a 50 ampere rig.

Also mentioned is a genset so will assume his rig is generator prepped rather than one necessitating unplugging the umbilical and using an adaptor to plug into the genny each time you use it.

Based upon those "assumptions" all 50 amp, genny prepped rigs have two legs of service within the service box breaker panel AND a 50amp or higher rated "transfer switching device" somewhere in the service bay of the rig.

A frequent occurrence with all RV units is poor assembly protocols leaving contact screws loose or road vibration causing the same loose connections to happen.

You need to isolate your rig from all power sources then do a contact audit of ALL connections in your breaker box first (easiest to eliminate quickly) and that transfer switch. If the transfer switch is the commonly used "Iota" brand, just follow your major 50amp service wire back from your breaker panel where it will come from the transfer switch/service box OR follow your incoming supply line through the belly of the beast until it arrives at that transfer switch/box before continuing on to your breaker panel.

Removing the top of that transfer box will reveal a double row of contact screws numbering from 12 to 24 in all and any one of them being loose on the outlet side of the buss bars could cause your issue as it would reduce your rig back to 50A/120V from a 50A/240V supply thereby rendering one half of your breaker panel inoperative. I target the outgoing bussbar in the transfer switch because it would behave as described regardless if incoming was from shore power or genset.

I'm going with this assumption based upon more than one of your larger draw 120 items being dead as it is unlikely they would put a couple of those together on one breaker and it would be unusual for more than one breaker to become loose at exactly the same time.

You need to address this ASAP as loose/arcing connections at the 50amp incoming to outgoing in the transfer box or at the breaker panel are a major fire hazard indeed.

Wherever you find those loose screws you will almost certainly find heat/melt/blackened degraded plastic insulation for an inch or two on the associated wiring...your call if it's bad enough to indicate brittle copper in the wire itself.

Should you find your problem in and be uncertain if the short sections of copper wiring within the Transfer switch need replacement consult any electrician in your RV fraternity as to how to determine copper degradation but usually a simple test is to take that portion of the wire exposed for the connection and bend it a couple of times to and fro...if it breaks off easily it needs to be replaced along with it's brothers.

Re-cap: ISOLATE from any 120/240 supply either shore power OR genny. - - Follow your major incoming 50 amp wire and tighten every connection you find along it's path to your breaker panel.- - Don't delay your troubleshooting/repair as while it's not functioning it could still be arcing.

****EDIT PS**** Neglected to mention that if rig is 50AMP with a large round Female incoming socket for the umbilical, the rear of that female receptacle and one loose screw could also be why one leg has dropped out of service.

Good luck.
Today is just the tomorrow you worried about yesterday!

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would reset the circuit breakers in the 120/240 volt power distribution center.
Turn off all circuit breakers applying light pressure toward off. Turn on main circuit breaker, then turn on branch breakers one at a time.
Do you have an energy management center? What is it showing if equipped for power input?

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
Problem existing on shore or genset
So is down stream from those items
Could be the transfer switch
Or the power control center
One leg of his 50 amp is not allowed to supply power
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Yes the Fridge and water use 12 volt in most RV's. but he said refrigerator working on A/C (Just a thought. if it's a residential fridge then it does not use 12 volt.. that is what may have confused me).

Yes total loss of 12 volt. but he said batteries were charged... And the converter should provide 12 volts.

Re-reading my original post I clearly meant to address 12 volt issues and simply forgot. Happens some times. .I mean I'm an old man (65) sometimes I forget things. Sorry.. Thanks to CA Traveler for pointing it out.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
OP says they have same issue when running genset.
OP do you have an inverter/charger or converter?

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Sounds like 50 amp service and the OP lost one leg of the service. Could be many locations but I would suspect a bad connection at a plug, receptacle, or inside the breaker panel.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

hershey
Explorer
Explorer
Go to your converter/inverter unit and press the resets on it.
hershey - albuquerque, nm
Someday Finally Got Here
My wife does all the driving - I just get to hold the steering wheel.
Face Book Group: All About RVing and We Fly RC's
Expedition - Chevy Equinox

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
joebedford wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
Most everything save the microwave and the opitonal RESIDENTIAL Fridge use 12 volt DC, this includes the water heater, and Air Conditioners.
Fridge, water heater and Air conditioners use 12V DC? No.
Many in fact use 12V for the controllers. ALL of mine use 12V.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
joebedford wrote:
wa8yxm wrote:
Most everything save the microwave and the opitonal RESIDENTIAL Fridge use 12 volt DC, this includes the water heater, and Air Conditioners.
Fridge, water heater and Air conditioners use 12V DC? No.


Actually, yes and no!

Example:

An absorption refrigerator absolutely does use 12 VDC for the control board. Not as a heat source (at least in recent decades), but without 12 VDC, it will not work on propane or 120 VAC.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
wa8yxm wrote:
Most everything save the microwave and the opitonal RESIDENTIAL Fridge use 12 volt DC, this includes the water heater, and Air Conditioners.
Fridge, water heater and Air conditioners use 12V DC? No.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Most everything save the microwave and the opitonal RESIDENTIAL Fridge use 12 volt DC, this includes the water heater, and Air Conditioners. But the WASHING MACHINE. I would think woudl be a 120 volt only device.

Suspect list as follows. with comments

Circuit breakers: These are always #1 Includes the MAIN breakers Cycle them.. Most people think if one trips the other does too.. not true.
GFCI is #2
Joke (not)Many RVers have a few screws loose.. Story:
When this righ was like six nmonths old the Air Conditioners were giveing me fitsk Sometimes the front one would work, sometimes the rear, sometimes both or neither,, So I started trouble shooting.. By chance I started with the breakers.

Noticed some movement in one of the wires where it is clamped to the breaker.. Yup, screw was loose. One screw took over TWO FULL TURNS before I felt resistance and over 3 full turns to tight.. Several were loose.. White, Black and Green, all 3 colors.. So the lose screws are the kind you tighten with a #2 square bit.

Side note: Another RVer citing my joke found some loose nuts on his 12 volt side of life. So we have loose screws and loose nuts.

As others have said LIGHTS are a 12 volt item, as is the furnace.. You said Batteries are CHARGED.. how are you measuring.. At battery leads one to think the DISCONNECT may be in the DISCONNECT (Store of OFF position) I had that problem too once.. Converter should supply 12 volt power if that happens and you have shore power but if there is a tripped breaker........

Finally.. You said MICROWAVE (And I assume televisions) work.. IF YOU HAVE AN INVERTER... That may be powering TV and Microwave. (off batteries) It will nto be wired in via the disconnect but will go direct to the battery via a fuse.

True Story (And this too is a suggestion) Had a neighbor with electrical trouble. In his case the Televisions did not work (KEY CLUE) Well he opened the compartment where his inverter resides, and there it was. a tripped breaker.. He then went inside to check if the TV worked (it did) his wife asks if I thought I could help, he tells her "he's already fixed it".. I come off looking like a super star. And it's all the fault of forums like thies cause my inverter does not have breakers, it feeds a sub panel (breaker box) so I'd not have thougt to look at the inverter without you folks.. Thank you.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

mchero
Explorer
Explorer
Check breakers on both front of Generator and/or inverter?
Robert McHenry
Currently, Henniker NH
07 Fleetwood Discovery 39V
1K Solar dieselrvowners.com
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Prior:1993 Pace Arrow 37' Diesel

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
If you have a 50 amp service, it"s possible you lost 1 leg of your 50 amp service. the side you lost has your converter, W/D and hot water heater. How do you know the battery is fully charged?
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad