LP problems, no furnace no water heater

[Undercover_Poe]

I picked up on 05 forest river last year, we have never RV'ed in it yet. I'm trying to get the heat to kick on and trying to get the water heater to fire but no luck. I have all the paper work, the heater is a SUBURBAN SW6D, SW6DE, SW6DM or a SW6DEM according to my owners manual. It's says this appliance does NOT have a pilot. It's equipped with an ignition device which automatically lights the burner. Same for my heater, it's a suburban NT125s, NT16s or NT20s according to my manual. I have filled both propane tanks, replaced the regulator with a new one and got two new whips from the tanks to the new reg. I can light the stove with a match but I can get no reaction from the water or the heat. I can't even get the fridge to come on. I'm charged with my battery and plugged into the house using only 20 amps. Any help with any of these would be appreciated. I'm trying to figure out where to start. Below is my water heater for reference taken last year when I drained it.

[Undercover_Poe]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
You don't have a 25A Fuse

Bottom two WERE 7.5A fuses in very first picture posted (and only Five 15A Fuses)

NOW you have SIX 15A and only One 7.5A


You are not getting DC to your Fuses
You are not getting DC thru your Fuses

YOU have DC System Issues

Remove the panel cover (2 screws) and check the DC on Converter terminals were battery cables connect and were DC cable feeds DC Dist Fuse Panel

YOU are not getting DC out of the DC Dist Panel

And it being a WFCO Power Dist..........probably time to get rid of it and replace with a Progressive Dynamics Model

Oh yeah, I mean bottom 7.5 amps. Looks like 25 amp in the pic. I see what you are saying, once the fuses are pulled all the lights should illuminate, so there is a problem with getting DC voltage to the equipment which isn't working. I'll work on investigating where my voltages stops. Maybe my problems are with the panel?

[Undercover_Poe]

Op here. Yes I removed the battery over the winter to an inside location and I'm pretty sure I have the leads on the correct terminals. I do have some dc working, like the pump, lights and even the battery checker thing/tank level checker thing

[CT_WANDERER]

Question for the OP. Did you remove the battery cables for the winter? If so are you sure you have the wires on correctly?

[CT_WANDERER]

If that is where you hear the over head fan running, it is your air conditioner. That runs fan runs on 120V AC. You need to work on your DC system. Find your battery power the see if you have a disconnect switch or see if you have DC power on your DC side if your fuse. If you are not sure on that get someone to help you.

[Old-Biscuit]

You don't have a 25A Fuse

Bottom two WERE 7.5A fuses in very first picture posted (and only Five 15A Fuses)

NOW you have SIX 15A and only One 7.5A


You are not getting DC to your Fuses
You are not getting DC thru your Fuses

YOU have DC System Issues

Remove the panel cover (2 screws) and check the DC on Converter terminals were battery cables connect and were DC cable feeds DC Dist Fuse Panel

YOU are not getting DC out of the DC Dist Panel

And it being a WFCO Power Dist..........probably time to get rid of it and replace with a Progressive Dynamics Model

[Undercover_Poe]

Ok here us what I just tried. I put the battery on charge while hooked up to the camper to simulate a good charged battery. The water pump does run but the overhead fan will not run. I need to be plugged into shore for the fan to run. I was able to cycle the temperature "dial" up and down while on furnace and I heard clicking from the over head fan but nothing running. I do have a multimeter however I don't know what to test other than the battery. After that quick charge she read 13.5 volts so I think the battery is good. I pulled all the fuses and looked for the lights next to them illuminate. Nothing except for one, the bottom 25 amp fuse, when pulled the light next to the fuse above it turned on. I think while pulling the fuses in and out I may have heard that overhead click again. Pictures of my overhead fan assembly.


Fuse pulled and the only light I could get illuminated. Sorry for the bad pic


The one above is better. Here is the fuse put back in and the light turns off

The pic I tried to post above showing the only light I could get on



I'm stumped.

[Undercover_Poe]

John&Joey wrote:
From what you've said I'm going to assume you're a new owner and bought it after it was winterized. So that leads me to a couple of conclusions. First your stove flame is great so I doubt it's propane. You seem to be plugged in but are a little confused on what is being asked of you. What everyone wants to see is the 12v side (RV lights) not the 11Ov (microwave, fan, etc...)

I'm going to guess that if you try your RV lights they will work, but when you unplug from shore power they will not. I think you have a battery cutoff in that rig that the old owner turned to off. When you're plugged in the converter is making 12v, but not enough to run the safety's on the propane appliances without the help of the battery being part of the overall system.

I bought it end if last season and winterized it myself. Are you suggesting that I unplug from shore and just run off 12v. Did that for a bit right when I got started and I noticed although the light would come on the overhead fan would not run when I switch fan on. It only clicked. I assumed the battery isn't really full of life. It's probably old. Should I unplug from shore and try a new battery?

[Old-Biscuit]

OK.....

You have Lights so some of the DC System is working.
No fridge lights inside or on panel-----NO DC to fridge
Furnace doesn't turn on..........NO DC to furnace
Water heater doesn't run on propane......NO DC to water heater

AC Circuit Breaker ALL 120VAC
Main 30A
A/C 20A (Fan and Compressor)
GFI/Reefer 15A (Reefer AC to outlet in outside compartment & for electric element ONLY nothing to do with fridge panel/inside lights)
Micro 15A
Converter 15A (AC input for converter DC output/battery charging)
Water heater 15A (For the Electric heat element)

**** That switch you turned ON in outside compartment turns Electric Heat element ON.........so water should be HOT by now (Looks like that is the ONLY ON/OFF Switch for your WH Electric element-----Good thing you had water in WH Tank before turning it ON)

DC Dict Panel 12VDC FUSES
1) 15A ??? Porch (Outside lights)
2) 15A Kitchen (lights)
3) 15A Bath (exhaust fan.....lights)
4) 15A Reefer/Furn !!!!!!!!!
5) 15A ????? can't make out
6) 7.5A ???? can't make out
7) 7.5A Radio

Don't see DC fused labeled for water pump.....should be 10A or higher (maybe #5 and is also DC to water heater)
Does water pump run?

****** FUSES #4 & #5
#4....REEFER/Furnace.........need to make sure that fuse is actually GOOD
#5....??? Could be water pump and water heater DC Fuse........make sure it's GOOD

Do you have a multimeter and know how to test voltages with it>

If DC Fuses are GOOD......pull and check them ALL (Red lights to right of fuses are suppose to light up when a fuse blows) but you need to PULL them out and check them.

But if fuses are good then testing for 12V DC at fridge and water heater (in outside compartments) will be needed. THen comes testing for DC to furnace.

Good luck....get posting what you find.


FYI......
Converter should have a 13.2V DC Output minimum so it CAN supply ALL of the DC Voltage needed and maintain battery charge

Fridge/furnace/water heater circuit boards may have 3X attempt then lock out-----when they lock out because no flame then to reset you just turn them OFF then back ON for 3X more attempts

BUT you don't have DC to those YET.

Find where the DC is stopped from going to them and THEY will most like run OK

And the stove top burners look good

[John_Joey]

From what you've said I'm going to assume you're a new owner and bought it after it was winterized. So that leads me to a couple of conclusions. First your stove flame is great so I doubt it's propane. You seem to be plugged in but are a little confused on what is being asked of you. What everyone wants to see is the 12v side (RV lights) not the 11Ov (microwave, fan, etc...)

I'm going to guess that if you try your RV lights they will work, but when you unplug from shore power they will not. I think you have a battery cutoff in that rig that the old owner turned to off. When you're plugged in the converter is making 12v, but not enough to run the safety's on the propane appliances without the help of the battery being part of the overall system.

[John_Wayne]

And make sure you have water in the water heater before you try to use the elec. heat element if it has one. Or you will be buying a new element.

[westend]

Some of these devices with circuit boards will "lock out" after three tries at ignition. Your best bet is to have a hand held meter, pull the fuses, and check each one. By pulling the fuses, you will remove power to the circuit boards and they should reset.

As was mentioned, corroded or dirty connections should be addressed. Buy a can of contact cleaner and clean every connection. Caig brand Deoxit 5 is the best cleaner (sold at Guitar Center and Radioshack).

You can't trust those idiot light gauges. They may lead you astray. Buy a meter.

Another potential issue is schedule of diagnosis. Firing the stove, initially, then coming back later and opening the cylinder valves may not be proved that there is propane in the lines. Opening a tank valve too fast will cause modern tanks to fault to a closed state, i.e. no propane going out of cylinder. Every time you open a cylinder valve, fire the stove burners. This will confirm there is propane in the lines.

[CT_WANDERER]

Right now I would say it sounds like you are not getting 12 Power to your system. check for fuses or a disconnect switch. Your High low switch and Auto is for your AC System. Which does use 12Volt. So you have to start checking fuses and switches on your heatind systems. When you move your T-Stat to furnace it should start the furnace blower. Then in a few seconds it should fire off. If it does not start the blower you have to check around your furnace for a fuse or switch that may be turned off. See if you have 12 At these point for a starter. I hope I am getting you in the right direction.

[Undercover_Poe]

Ava wrote:
On my water heater I was having an issue with it when that red light next to the switch did not come on. I wiggled the wire connections on the heater and then the green light on the control board at the water heater lit up. When it is green the red one inside comes on. I have since found a poor connection of a couple of wires that I fixed and works fine again.

I'm going to wiggle everything, although I do not see a control board for the water heater anywhere on my rig.

[Ava]

On my water heater I was having an issue with it when that red light next to the switch did not come on. I wiggled the wire connections on the heater and then the green light on the control board at the water heater lit up. When it is green the red one inside comes on. I have since found a poor connection of a couple of wires that I fixed and works fine again.

[Undercover_Poe]

Ok, wow. Lots of replies thank you all. Here I go with the responses. With the battery charged and the camper plugged into the house (20amp). All the lights work, the microwave comes on, the fan switch at the wall thermostat will operate the ceiling fan, the little green light illuminates down by my feet (I think that is a CO sensor). And the press to test battery will light up all four lights and the tanks show empty. That's what does work. What does not work: the water heater switch has a red light next to it that says reset, that does not come on or illuminate. The fridge has some lights on the top, I'll show a picture, those do not illuminate under any senecio of pushing in the on/off or electric/gas buttons and when I flip my t stat to furnace nothing happens. Also when I open fridge door no light comes on. I did locate the switch behind the burner at the water heater and I flipped to ON, it's was sold to me in the off position last Season. Switch was rather hard to move. No I didn't stand outside when I tried to cycle the water heater. I will today. What's the process, turn on the switch inside and run outside? I've also laid on the floor open the fuse panel, cycled all the breakers into the on position and checked all the fuses that are right there. Here is what I'm looking at

Breakers in the on position


Gas burners are full on.


T stat control. Fan works and Hi low switch works when fan is ON but fan won't come on when turned to auto. Furnace/off/cool switch does nothing.


Water heater switch does nothing either. Is that light there supposed to come on?

And this thing is just sitting there. Can't get a reaction out of it
Filled with water prior starting to turn on. Checked by cracking the pressure relief
Vent and water came out.