Magnetec converter part

[WildCloud]

Hello All. I have a Magnetek 6325 converter in my rig that does not work. I removed the converter and found a broken electrical part. I can’t read the part (ID)number on the broken part. Can anyone help me figure out what it is so I can purchase a new one?


Hopefully, i uploaded those pictures correctly. Thanks for the help!

[StirCrazy]

wa8yxm wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

the problem with that is it doent have the distrabution side (unless it just isn't showing it. the old paralax ones are not filtered dc and in my case only had two 12V circuts with old glass fuses and one 120V with a resettable push button for a breaker. by using a 4000 series power centre you get up to 10 or 12 , 12v circuts and up to 4 120V. I only used two of the 4 so far but if the wife decides she wants a microwave i can add that.

The 4600 series is designed to replace the Electronics on older Converters like the Magnetek or less reliable ones like the WFCOs.

Now the original Magnatek has two outputs.. One rad unfiltered rectivied AC and one that goes to the battery (Also unfliltered but the battery is a filter) with the 4600 you simply bridge those (Blue and red) leads (tie them together) since it's a filtered DC out Way way way way way better.

ya for mine, it would have been a lot more work to get that to work then just replacing the whole thing. I also gained the bonus of being able to take all the 12V accessories and give them there own fuse instead of the fridge, furnace, all the lights, water pump and such being all on two outputs. but if there is a 12V distrabution panel that would work for that also. with the 120V side I was able to have the charger on a breaker also so I can turn it off if I decide to run an inverter, I kinda made the system expansion ready, but I could see if you wanted to maintain that "look" then you wat somthing that hids behind the sceen.

[wa8yxm]

StirCrazy wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

the problem with that is it doent have the distrabution side (unless it just isn't showing it. the old paralax ones are not filtered dc and in my case only had two 12V circuts with old glass fuses and one 120V with a resettable push button for a breaker. by using a 4000 series power centre you get up to 10 or 12 , 12v circuts and up to 4 120V. I only used two of the 4 so far but if the wife decides she wants a microwave i can add that.

The 4600 series is designed to replace the Electronics on older Converters like the Magnetek or less reliable ones like the WFCOs.

Now the original Magnatek has two outputs.. One rad unfiltered rectivied AC and one that goes to the battery (Also unfliltered but the battery is a filter) with the 4600 you simply bridge those (Blue and red) leads (tie them together) since it's a filtered DC out Way way way way way better.

[time2roll]

StirCrazy wrote:

time2roll wrote:
Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

the problem with that is it doent have the distrabution side (unless it just isn't showing it. the old paralax ones are not filtered dc and in my case only had two 12V circuts with old glass fuses and one 120V with a resettable push button for a breaker. by using a 4000 series power centre you get up to 10 or 12 , 12v circuts and up to 4 120V. I only used two of the 4 so far but if the wife decides she wants a microwave i can add that.

The link has a new 12v distribution fuse card shown.
If the OP wants to expand 120v distribution we can address that separately as needed.

[StirCrazy]

time2roll wrote:
Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

the problem with that is it doent have the distrabution side (unless it just isn't showing it. the old paralax ones are not filtered dc and in my case only had two 12V circuts with old glass fuses and one 120V with a resettable push button for a breaker. by using a 4000 series power centre you get up to 10 or 12 , 12v circuts and up to 4 120V. I only used two of the 4 so far but if the wife decides she wants a microwave i can add that.

[wa8yxm]

time2roll wrote:
Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

I agree with Time2Roll the PD is a better converter

I also agree that Part looks like a ceramic resistor.
Though why the would need one of 0.3 ohms I do not know.. 0.003 perhps but 0.3 is a tad high (at 60 amps that's over 1,000 watts. drop a zero from the watts for every zero you put in front of the 3)

[steveh27]

time2roll wrote:
Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

That's the one I replaced my old Magnatek with and am glad I did.

[time2roll]

Unless preserving a rare historic vehicle.... get a replacement converter.

PD4635

[enblethen]

This is a Direct replacement for the lower section of the converter along with a new 12-volt distribution center.

[pianotuna]

Replace.

[StirCrazy]

oh man take that battery killer to the dump and replace the whole power centre. I had one like that in my camper when I bought it and it came out and a proper PD 4000 series went in to replace it. fairly strait forward, since you took it out you have a clue. I took the opertunity to upgrade my battery cables and such while I was at it as I also moved the battery location.
I went with this one https://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4000-series/ as it was close to the original size and I only had to make the opening 1" bigger.

Steve

[enblethen]

Photo 2 shows value as .3 ohms

[Joe417]

That is a high wattage resistor. It is about 2 to 2.5 inches long so I will guess in the 25 to 50 watt range. The value/part number is probably on the back side or bottom. You'll have to drill out the rivet to verify.

That resistor is probably $10 to $15 dollars.

Now for the opinion....

I can't speak for newer Magnetek converters, but I have worked on several old Magnetek converters, 2004 and older, and I would not fix it. The output was not filtered and controlled like todays converters.

I suggest replacing with a modern Progressive Dynamics multi-stage or another brand of equivalent output. They are microprocessor controlled and have multi-stage charging which is much better on the battery.

Look on line, I picked up one about 2 years ago for $60. Currently I'm seeing 100 - 150 on ebay.

Good luck.

[Seattle_Steve]

I also would just replace that ancient unit.

The manual does have part numbers and descriptions if you want to repair

[enblethen]

New members cannot most photos for after some posts.
Part looks like a ceramic resistor.
You would be better off with replacing converter completely. You would get better battery charging and performace.
Try contacting Bestconverter.com for a good replacement. Maybe one of these Converter lower section
photo 1
Photo 2