Mechanical checks on a used van before purchase?

[Naio]

I'm looking at vans with 80-160,000 miles.

Normally with a used car, I take it to a mechanic for an inspection before deciding on a price. But mechanics are telling me that, with these big vans, it is too much work to get at the engine to look at compression, spark plugs, or anything. Like $400 in labor too much.

I did find a trans guy willing to do general inspections with extra emphasis on transmissions, and I figure he knows enough to get a good sense of a tranny from the outside. (Is this realistic?) I didn't ask him specifically about engine stuff.

What do you all expect from a pre-purchase inspection? And what do you get?

If you do it yourself, what do you do? I mean, I do all the basics -- drive, listen, feel, check fluids, tire dates, crawl under the rig and look for anything untoward. But I am not even a shade tree mechanic, with cars younger than me ;).

[Naio]

Thanks, westend!

I did look at one ambulance, but it was so trashed that I didn't look at any others. I'm glad to hear they are not all like that. It didn't have a lot of miles, but boy had it been through the wringer.

I think they might better for other styles of RVer than for me, though. Numerous large windows are important to me. I'd be ripping out much of that cool built in cabinetry to install them.

As I said in my prev post, I take for granted I will be adding shocks, tires, etc. What other suspension work do you mean? I ended up getting custom leaf springs for my current van, but I'd hope to avoid doing that again. ($600)

[westend]

If you have a line on a 7.3 diesel, they are a great power plant. You can plan to get + 200K out of a 7.3. My experience is that anything on the road will need some sort of suspension work and other minor repairs when near 100K miles. The automakers don't make everything in a van, truck, or car to last 200K mi.. There are expendable parts even in a new vehicle.

Lately, I've been looking at retired ambulances, either with body or cab on chassis. Most all are fleet maintained to a high degree, come with 600 A alternators and with body, have an RV style ready-to-roll. You may wish to explore that route if you're looking for a well maintained vehicle.

[Naio]

Thanks, Kayteg1! I understand that might be an idealised list, but it gives me some great stuff I can add to my own checks, and some I can ask a mechanic to do :).

Gdetrailer, I read your post, and thought, 'Wow, why is this person projecting their weird fantasies onto me?' Then I looked and saw that you are from east of the Rockies.

Used cars are different out west. We have no rust, and a 20 year old car here is like a 2 year old one back east. I have been buying used cars since I was a teen. Looking under the rig, taking it for a test drive and then to a mechanic is the norm.

And 200k is the normal expectation for engine and transmission out here. In my search, I have seen quite a few GAS vans with 350-450k. I am not buying them, but they are on the road.

With an older rig I expect to replace shocks, tires, trans oil and filter, and I'm cool with a worn interior and a few dents. I balk at major suspension work, salvage title, peeling paint, or any sign of engine or transmission problems.

[Gdetrailer]

Naio wrote:
Mech said not to buy that one, so that makes it easy.

I could really use you folks' thoughts on the 7.3. It's kitted out for camping, slight lift, good tires, shocks, brakes, charging system for my house battery. The high top is ginormous and ugly.

I have never owned a vehicle I liked the looks of. I always buy what is in great shape mechanically, and suits my needs. I don't choose based on looks, and my rigs have ranged, in my taste, from tolerable to clean but ugly. I keep thinking maybe I wanna hold out for something I LIKE looking at. But I am also impatient to move. So the ugly high top is a factor.

You are being overly picky for USED vehicles.

Buying anything with 80K-160K miles is a gamble, you are not ever going to find a used one that will suit you..

You can gum this subject to death but the result will be the same.. You will beat yourself silly, worry about everything and in the end skip it..

If you WANT CHEAP then EXPECT TO HAVE TO FIX SOME THINGS.

You will never find a used vehicle without a few faults or problems, that is the name of the game when buying used.

Most modern day engines and transmissions will have no problem getting 100K, 200K and even 300K without any major INTERNAL problems.

If I was selling a used vehicle and encountered a buyer with your demands of mechanics taking it on highway drives and exotic evasive testing to point of tearing a engine and transmission down to bare parts I would tell that buyer to take a hike, lose my number and never ever contact me again..

Do yourself a favor, up your budget, buy a newer vehicle or better yet buy a BRAND NEW one.. This way you will only have yourself to blame if you fail to maintain it..

[Kayteg1]

For what it is worth- I attach the list mechanics SHOULD use for CPO cars.
Compression test on modern engines is very big job, but I substitute it with acceleration test. On cars finding factory rating 0-60mph is easy, but even with van you can figure out that 2 minutes getting to 60 mph is too much.
good luck on the search.

To begin the inspection, a mileage/history verification is performed and owner's manuals and spare keys are assembled.

Identifiable Structural Damage (get a magnet for bondo check) *****
Mileage and History verification (CARFAX)
Vehicle Maintenance Schedule Verification (read FSS) *****
Verify all recall and campaigns have been performed
Current Maintenance and Warranty Booklet
Current Owners manual
All spare keys including wheel locks if installed ****
OEM Factory Window verification
Roadside Assistance Program labels
MBCPO inspection label affixed to B-Pillar
Perform testing for Diagnostic codes *****


Engine oil quality and level checks *****
Transmission oil check (bring dipstick for newer cars) *****
Rear Axle Oil check (check for oil residue if you can't open it in the field)
Transfer Case Oil Check
Front Axle Oil check
Antifreeze protection check (green coolant = red flag)
Power Steering Fluid check
Brake Fluid & Clutch Fluid check *****
Windshield Washer Fluid check
Level Control Oil, ADS
Battery Condition and check
Verify functionality of any moving linkages
AdBlue level check
(blowby test) ***** why MB is not checking it? >> put a napkin over oil fill and see if it stays at idling.


Emission control System checks
Fuel Filter check
Spark Plug check
Dynamic compression test (this is hard to do on newer engines, so I do acceleration test instead)
Fuel Injection System
Ignition System check
Pre-Glow system check (is the glow light coming on at start?)
Vacuum pump check (***** for older -pre1998 diesels with weak pumps)
Boost Pressure Check
Air cleaner / Filter check per maintenance schedule
V-Belt and Poly V-Belt check
Engine Mount check
Heating and Ventilation Dust filter per maintenance schedule
Active Charcoal Filter / Pre-Filter per maintenance schedule
Recirculation Air Filter per maintenance schedule
A/C Refrigerant Charge per maintenance schedule


Fuses condition and proper rating
MIL check *****
Instrument Cluster check *****
Exterior rear view mirror check
Exterior mirror fold-back operation
Interior rear view mirror check
Automatic dimming rear view mirror
Radio and speaker function check
Tire Pressure Monitoring System check
CD Changer and DVD rear entertainment system check (if applicable)
Cell phone and BlueTooth check (if applicable)
Cigarette Lighters
Voice Control Systems (if applicable)
mBrace functionality and software check
Switches check
Steering Column adjustment and memory
Seat Adjustment and memory check
Heated / Ventilated Seats
Front Seat Belt Extenders (coupe and Cabriolet)
Front seat backrest latch/ Release (Coupe and Cabriolet)
Front seat backrest latch/ Release Chime / Warning Lamp (Coupe and Cabriolet)
Rear Window Defroster check
Rear Head Restraint Retraction
Rear Window Sunshade
Horn
Headlamp Low / High Beam & All exterior lights
Rear Seat Back rest latch / Warning Lamp
Panorama Roof Function and Rollo Shades
Interior and Entry Lighting
Windshield Wiper / Washer systems
Air-Scarf Functionality
Rain-Sensor Functionality


Drive Shaft Flex discs, couplings and Center Support Bridge *****
Exhaust System /Connections / Supports *****
Parking Brake and Cables
Brake Lines
Tire Wear including spare
Wheel inspection
Wheel bolt torque
Wheel alignment check and adjust if necessary
Brake Rotors and Pads check
Shock Absorbers / Damper struts
Suspension Inspection
Self-Leveling Suspension inspection
Front / Rear Axel Rubber Mounts / Bushings
Check Steering Play *****
Tighten Steering Gear Bolts for 463 vehicle
Front Axle Ball joints
Steering Shock for 463 vehicle


Body Structure Inspection
Glass, Lamp Frames and Lenses
Central Locking System Function
Mechanical Locking at all points
Alarm System Function
Power Window Operations from all points
One touch and convenience Closing
Interior Trim, Inspect Dash, Door Panels, Seat Covers, etc
First Aid Kit - Inspect and Replace if inner seal is broken, check expiration date
Multi-Contour seats
Seat Belt Operation and Condition
Front Seat Belt Height adjustment
Front Seat Center Armrest and hinges
Front Sun Visors / Vanity Mirrors, Rear Vanity Mirrors (if equipped)
Roll Bar / Pop Up Headrest
Parktronic (if available)
Soft top and Seats, condition and operation
Aircap - Check operation and proper movement according to vehicle specs
Door / Trunk Lid Closing Assist
Trunk Release
Tailgate ClosingAssist
Rear Facing Third Seat (Station Wagon)
Door / Trunk / Tailgate Seals, Inspect Drains
Sliding Roof function Drains and Headliner
Inspect Glass Roof for Scratches / Corrective action
Instruments


Instruments
Speedometer / Odometer / Tripmeter (confirm speedometer with GPS)
Steering / Vehicle handling / Centered Steering Wheel ****
Braking System Performance / Parking Brake Operation
Automatic Climate Control Function, Regulation, Display, Odors *****
Cruise Control Function ****
Verify Navigation Function
Verify Distronic Function
Engine Performance
Excessive Exhaust Smoke (Diesel)
Vibration and Noise (Drivetrain / Wheels)
Transmission Shifting (upshift / downshift, Kickdown)
Shift-Lock Operation
Wind Noise


Fluid Leaks - Visible Inspection
Automatic Climate Control
All Fluid Levels (under hood)


Engine wash
Trunk Mats
Paint*****
Spare Tire, Tools & Jack, Check Tirefit sealant expiration date
Moisture and Odor
Vacuum and Shampoo
Floor Mats
Carpet
Upholstery
headliner, Door Panels
Buttons Knobs and Vents, Instrument Panel
Glass and Mirrors
Wood and / or Chrome Trim
Vacuum and Shampoo
Screws
Ashtrays
De-grease Door Jambs, Hinges, Kickpanels and Visors
Moisture and Odor
Dings, Dents and Scratches
Examine Paint
Examine and Clean Chrome
Glass and Mirror Housing
Grill
Lamp Lenses
Badges
Trim and Moldings
Wipers
Bumpers
Door Edges, Frames
Wash and Wax
Scuffs and Scratches
Cuts and Gouges
Wash and Polish

[Naio]

Mech said not to buy that one, so that makes it easy.

I could really use you folks' thoughts on the 7.3. It's kitted out for camping, slight lift, good tires, shocks, brakes, charging system for my house battery. The high top is ginormous and ugly.

I have never owned a vehicle I liked the looks of. I always buy what is in great shape mechanically, and suits my needs. I don't choose based on looks, and my rigs have ranged, in my taste, from tolerable to clean but ugly. I keep thinking maybe I wanna hold out for something I LIKE looking at. But I am also impatient to move. So the ugly high top is a factor.

[Naio]

Right?!?

Every seller, of course, says their van is perfect in every way and they have taken great care of it.

Yesterday's van, the mech said needed $4k of engine work, plus ABS stuff. The seller said, 'Well, sure, the check engine and ABS lights are on, but it runs perfectly!'

[MEXICOWANDERER]

"Honest to god! Trust me!"

[Naio]

I am so frustrated with van sellers. Dealers and private party.

With both, I have learned to ask before I come look, 'Can I test drive it? If I like it, can I take it to a mechanic to look it over?' Sometimes even if they say yes on the phone they say no when I get there.

My current potential van, yesterday the guy said we could not test drive it bec he would lose his parking place. Ok, bye. Then he texted me last night that we could drive it today. We meet up with him (he is an hour late) and he says only around the block, no freeway, because he is in a hurry. I say ok, the mechanic can drive it on the freeway. Then he spends half an hour arguing with me over whether it is going to the mechanic.

I would have walked away long ago if I were not having such a hard time finding a van. I did walk, last week, when a dealer told me no mechanic. But this one is now at the mechanic, after muuuuuch discussion.

Or should I buy a 7.3 with low miles sight unseen for more than I want to spend? That's another option.

::sigh::

[Naio]

::laughing::

Thank you, Mex :).

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Like a doctor who proposes "Non-Invasive-Diagnostics"

He does it from an adjacent room listening to a glass held against the wall

Can't turn the clock back on 160,000 miles. The best you can hope for is a worn out engine that somehow passes a smog test.

First of all a "Compression Test" is next to worthless: A "CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TEST"

Shifty sellers change the oil and use SAE 50 to reduce blue smoke and raise the oil pressure a smidge off the "Danger Low Oil Pressure" peg

Run your finger around the inside of the tailpipe. If it comes out black and oily - BAD. Remove top of air filter housing. Wet oily housing - BAD.

Remove dipstick. Smell it. Oil burners and compression leakers leave a telltale rank smell which is embedded in the varnish on the stick. A good engine's dipstick will smell like new oil.

Take a pocket B.S. detector. If it overloads and catches fire a block before your destination, turn around and flee.