Nov-25-2021 04:40 AM
Dec-26-2021 08:02 AM
Dec-26-2021 05:18 AM
Dec-20-2021 06:16 PM
Kansas couple wrote:
I'm looking to buy a multimeter, as my rig's refrigerator doesn't work on electric but still works on gas. There is power to its outlet (of course, that would be too easy of a fix..) and I know my next steps will involve going to the circuit board. I'm looking at the Klein Tools multimeters they sell at Home Depot. Noticed the CL 390 can measure DC amperage. Would this be something to have, or is measuring DC current not that important? If not, then I'd go with one of the less-expensive models. I'm open to thoughts and input. Thanks!
Dec-20-2021 05:02 PM
Dec-16-2021 06:01 AM
Dec-16-2021 05:52 AM
Dec-16-2021 04:21 AM
Dec-15-2021 04:55 PM
Nov-29-2021 06:20 AM
ktmrfs wrote:Plugging the RV into a 20A GFCI circuit can provide some additional protection when looking for a problem. I've never seen a 30A or 50A GFCI plug in a CG but they probably exist.CA Traveler wrote:
Good points above. Most RVs should not be probing a 120V or 240V due to the potential danger. Especially a pedestal while holding the metal cover open with one hand or standing in a damp area due to a nearby faucet or drain.
well, since there are lots of 120V circuits in an RV, and based on issues that have come up from posts, 120V power issues are common enough to need troubleshooting at times, brush up on best practices for safety when working on line circuits.
And make sure that ANY test device you use on such circuits carries at least a CATII 300V rating, CATIII 600V is better.
That will provide some safety in case of a mistake.
Nov-28-2021 06:07 PM
Nov-28-2021 05:33 PM
CA Traveler wrote:
Good points above. Most RVs should not be probing a 120V or 240V due to the potential danger. Especially a pedestal while holding the metal cover open with one hand or standing in a damp area due to a nearby faucet or drain.
Nov-28-2021 02:36 PM
Nov-28-2021 12:58 PM
Nov-28-2021 11:35 AM
Gdetrailer wrote:Cummins12V98 wrote:MFL wrote:
JMO...there are several definitions of cost, cheap throw away, lower priced, middle priced, and expensive. I usually try to buy the best product (expensive), with the features I need, for the lowest price.
Jerry
YEP and I bet most of your tools are still in service from years past.
I have a Fluke that is US Made. I have no idea how to use many of it's functions but hey they are there if needed. Same model the Commercial Electricians used on my jobs years ago.
I have used Flukes at work, they are no better than any other meter (even cheap HF) if you have not or never had them calibrated to a known standard. At work, all devices like meters, torque wrenches and such were required by the QA department to be tested and calibrated every yr.
Not all meters can be calibrated or will be able to hold a calibration to specs, that is where Fluke comes in and are able to be calibrated and do a good job holding that calibration.
But for HOME or even general electrician or mechanic use, a Fluke is not needed at all. You are not manufacturing to tight tolerances and general electrical work does not need pin point accuracy. Now if you were trying to troubleshoot an amplifier circuit where .1V can mean difference of working or not, than perhaps a Fluke or a bit better quality than HF would be a better choice.
For RV and auto use calibration to a known standard is not needed and pretty much any cheap meter that can give a consistent reading will suffice.
I have a nice 35yr old RadioShack auto range DVM which works fine and a bunch of cheapo give away HF DVMs laying around.. Those cheap HF DVMs are plenty accurate for 12V and 120V/240V work and I have not noticed any of those being inaccurate with each other (they all agree with each other).
$5-$6 HF meters are fine for the use the OP will be using it for.