My first RV wheel bearing replacement

[Bear_Ghost]

Hi all, newbie RV owner here. I've been around Toy Haulers for a while and owned a small one about 12 years ago. But recently I've got back in the game and purchased a 2005 30' Sandpiper toy hauler. The TH is in really good condition for being 11 years old but I want to service the wheel bearings and brakes before making many more trips. At the same time I'm going to install a Dexter heavy duty shackle and plate kit. After a close look at my axles, they appear to be Hayes T-60 axles. The work looks pretty straight forward and I plan on tackling both items in one weekend. My question is....where is the best place to purchase the bearing/seal kits? How do I know I'm getting the right kit? There seems to be a lot of different ones out there. Thanks for any input!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Parts store chassis grease isn't worth snot. Here is a link to Lubrication Engineers Almagard 3752. Need to register free. Products are shipped to your door.

You couldn't pay me to use snot chassis grease. Including Amzoil

http://products.lelubricants.com/viewitems/industrial-greases-for-agriculture/almagard-vari-purpose-...

[Bear_Ghost]

Got all four wheels finished up last weekend! New bearings,seals, and adjusted the brakes. Thanks everyone for the helpful info! This weekend it's on the the Dexter EZ flex kit install. Hopefully I'll be getting rid of all the cracking and popping caused by my old worn out rusty links. Then it's camp time, getting tired of working on this trailer more than enjoying it!

[Bear_Ghost]

Awesome that is what I was hoping you guys would say! Thanks for all the input. I'm gonna get busy tomorrow morning and do the other three. Thanks!:B

[Lynnmor]

Sounds like you did it right. You should not be tightening the nut unless the wheel is spinning. When the wheel stops, do not let the wheel rotate at all while backing off all the torque and then adjusting. Rotating the wheel will only roll the grease back in and somewhat reduce the feel for the adjustment. Yes, there will be a slight amount of play in the bearing, you are looking for the minimum amount of clearance possible.

[DustyR]

Bear Ghost wrote:

myredracer wrote:

Bear Ghost wrote:
Or should I tighten the castle nut to get to the next available hole?

Did you use a torque wrench on the axle nuts to get them seated first, then back them off? You should never tighten them to get to the nearest hole. They need a small amount of free play.

Yes I used a torque wrench set at 50 lbs and torqued the nut, spun the hub, torque/spun 2nd, 3rd time, then loosened the nut and tightened with my fingers. Had to back it off slightly to get a cotter pin hole.The nut moves with only the cotter pun holding it. But that's were I get a fraction of wobble with the tire installed.

The slight wobble is a caught-22. This is what the manufacture recommends, the general consensus is better slightly loose than too tight.

[Bear_Ghost]

myredracer wrote:

Bear Ghost wrote:
Or should I tighten the castle nut to get to the next available hole?

Did you use a torque wrench on the axle nuts to get them seated first, then back them off? You should never tighten them to get to the nearest hole. They need a small amount of free play.

Yes I used a torque wrench set at 50 lbs and torqued the nut, spun the hub, torque/spun 2nd, 3rd time, then loosened the nut and tightened with my fingers. Had to back it off slightly to get a cotter pin hole.The nut moves with only the cotter pun holding it. But that's were I get a fraction of wobble with the tire installed.

[brulaz]

Bear Ghost wrote:

...
The only concern I have is after torquing and setting the bearing and backing the castle nut off to finger tight, the cotter pin hole is blocked. Dexter Axle's "official" wheel bearing maintenance video says to loosen it up to the next available cotter pin hole. After doing so and installing the tire, I noticed there is a very slight wobble when rocking the tire top/bottom, indicating the castle nut is too loose. I know that you don't want too much torque on the bearing and castle nut, but the wobble concerns me. Is this the correct procedure?
...

This what the "book" says to do and what I've always done.
So far so good.

[Crabbypatty]

I have used redneck-trailer.com for all my brakes bearings seals etc. They know all there is to know. Just take measurements diameter & width of brakes. Note the axle serial numbers and make and they can supply at a reasonable price all you need. I repack my bearings every year. Its not hard one wheel at a time takes just a couple of hours for 4 wheels.

[myredracer]

Bear Ghost wrote:
Or should I tighten the castle nut to get to the next available hole?

Did you use a torque wrench on the axle nuts to get them seated first, then back them off? You should never tighten them to get to the nearest hole. They need a small amount of free play.

[Bear_Ghost]

Thanks for all the input everyone! Well, I'm off to a pretty good start. I pulled a hub at the storage yard and took it home where I removed the bearings, races, and seal. I took all the parts to a well known local trailer repair and parts shop. They knew right away what I had and set me up with a kit that included everything to do the job. I got their best kit, all made in the USA and a couple tubes of grease to go with it. After watching a few more YouTube videos on the proper procedure, I decided to knock one hub out today. After packing and installing the bearings and seal, I installed it onto the trailer.
The only concern I have is after torquing and setting the bearing and backing the castle nut off to finger tight, the cotter pin hole is blocked. Dexter Axle's "official" wheel bearing maintenance video says to loosen it up to the next available cotter pin hole. After doing so and installing the tire, I noticed there is a very slight wobble when rocking the tire top/bottom, indicating the castle nut is too loose. I know that you don't want too much torque on the bearing and castle nut, but the wobble concerns me. Is this the correct procedure? Or should I tighten the castle nut to get to the next available hole?

[CharlesinGA]

NAPA sells trailer bearing kits for smaller trailers (and possibly larger ones, not sure) that are SKF bearings mostly sourced in Mexico or Japan, with the SKF name on them. They are good quality. As an alternative, remove the bearings and go to a BEARINGS AND DRIVE store and they will have good quality bearings, races and seals.

Personally, I blow the old grease out with compressed air, wash in the parts washer, examine closely and if they look good, I repack and reinstall.

I helped a friend replace all of the bearings in a new to him '86 30ft Avion but we found bearings made in every former Soviet communist block nation imaginable, so we changed them all.

Charles

[Bear_Ghost]

Thanks for the input everyone! Yes I agree, the working area is not ideal. Makes doing major work on my trailer really tough. But if I plan it out and have a full weekend free, I've been able to get a lot of work done in the past couple weekends. I'm planning on pulling one hub today at the storage yard. That will be a good start and I'll be able to get some numbers at least. I ordered the Dexter EZ flex kit last night, so hopefully this project can be wrapped up this weekend!

[Lynnmor]

Take out your old bearings and clean them completely. If they look good, they will be much better than new cheap junk Chinese bearings made today. If you need to replace, get Timken bearings. I got mine from Summit Racing.

[Dave_H_M]

You are kinda strapped for working space there.

I just did mine and as suggested, took one apart, got the numbers off the bearings and ordered the kits from etrailer on line.

I experienced a huge disparity in pricing when initially shopping. BTW all the bearings that the local ORilley's had were China made regardless of the box they were in.

I understand Timken still does some manufacturing in the US. I think you have to look inside the box to see where a bearing is made now a days.

Good Luck.