Need Advice To Keep Me From Breaking My Butt

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Or arm, leg, hip. whatever...

Power outages. Had one last night. Reached for flashlight in pitch black, knocked it off the night stand and it rolled under the bed.

Old-age. Uncoordinated-city.

I would love to wire up a gaming size push-button switch to side of the night stand. Turn it into a 12 volt toggle latching circuit.

Tap into overhead 12 volt power line.

Wire in WIRELESS CONTROL switches to power the CREE 8 watt lights. The gaming button of course would toggle the chips on and off. Two chips, one in bedroom the 2nd in the bathroom.

Now before you get all excited this is also for a stick and brick dwelling. I'll use the Lifeline as a power supply.

No worries about running main 12 volt power, but I want the gaming button to be wireless control. I may move the bed or even bedroom.

Wireless switching of a 12 volt load simultaneous multiple locations is the goal.

I am also going to fit an adjustable 555 timer module in case I forget or the gaming button* gets accidentally switched. 20 minutes max.

*4" diameter. Momentary action.

[Fisherman]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
"What you need is a 12 volt "Clapper"


YEAH!

Thunderstorm.

BOOM! Lights On!

CRACK! Lights Off!

(sigh)

That's the best non joke I've read in a long time.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Sixty five dollars for fifty feet is still out of my impoverished league. But muchas gracias for your link. The house is a rental and I need a way to stick this to a corner of a ceiling. Maybe with adhesive cable tie pads using straight white zip cord?

[ndrorder]

Apparently, not everything is cheaper in Mexico. The link I included from Amazon for coiled raceway is significantly cheaper.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I eBay searched RACEWAY and came up with seventy-five dollar per three feet of raceway. Not exactly what I had in mind.

[naturist]

My daughter gave me for christmas a AA battery powered LED light bar with an IR remote. I put it under a cabinet in the TT, and attached the remote holder directly overhead in the bed. It's not bright, but bright enough, the remote holder is velcroed to the bottom of the overhead above me within arms reach so when lights go out, I can reach the remote and it won't evade my half-asleep fumbly fingers in the dark. Two screws and a bit of velcro . . . no running of wires needed.

[ndrorder]

Generic name is raceway if its attached to something. Loom if it is a protective cover.

We used this to run the hearing loop around the folks living room.

https://www.amazon.com/Medium-Surface-Cable-Raceway-Roll/dp/B00NI4DRKU/ref=sr_1_35?ie=UTF8&qid=1497562721&sr=8-35&keywords=wire+raceway

[Yeti_plus]

Wiremold is the trade name of the big guys, but there are other manufacturers.
Brian

[MEXICOWANDERER]

And what the devil do they call the surface wire troughs used to run wires externally over concrete walls? I need about 15'

[MEXICOWANDERER]

The MPJA item looks good. But with widely separated loads, is it possible to purchase separate receivers that couple effectively with the transmitter? In short one transmitter - multiple widely spaced receivers? Meaning same frequency?

The glo spray paint is a WINNER! Thank you. Perfect for eyeballing the glued in place transmitter on the night stand.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

"What you need is a 12 volt "Clapper"


YEAH!

Thunderstorm.

BOOM! Lights On!

CRACK! Lights Off!

(sigh)

[1995brave]

You need one of these two

http://www.allelectronics.com/item/rc-14/4-channel-12-vdc-remote-control/1.html
http://www.mpja.com/Remote-Control-Wireless-4-Channel/productinfo/32970+MI

[time2roll]

Get a night light that comes on or stays on when the power goes out.
Just enough to avoid damage getting the flashlight.
Only a few $$ at the home store.

Small UPS to your 120v lamp can do the same so you always have power for a few minutes to figure out where you are at.

[kerrlakeRoo]

Blackout Buddy, available from Amazon.com
Nightlight,flashlight, wall charged and comes on when power goes off.
Or do it the way I do, Yell "honey, wheres the flashlight"
Both ways work.

[Tom_M1]

What you need is a 12 volt "Clapper".

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Well I -really really- do not want to do an involuntary reveille at 0255 just because the power failed. It happens too often. My BiPAP is UPS with the Lifeline. I have a gooseneck 120 vac lamp with a weighted base and pushbutton. Pushy pushy still pitch black I want to braille my fingers onto a toggle button. Yes I "could" convert the lamp to 12 volts but the bathroom means a trip through the bedroom, through a short hall, through the kitchen, through the laundry room...

A pair of those 8 watt Cree chips would give me enough light to navigate. The dis-intelligent structure builder placed the kitchen switch on the far side of the kitchen, and of course the bedroom light is placed over the foot of the bed with the switch by the front door.

Emergency lighting is great. But for down here it would mean perhaps 200 cycles per year. But thanks for the suggestion.

I DO HAVE a 12 volt reading light next to the recliner. A sudden power loss would have me toggle the bedroom light, then return to switch off the reading light. The kitchen light (8 watts 120 volts) stays on until I go to bed. I switch on the bedroom 12 volt reading light (intense!) then return and switch off the kitchen (120vac) light.

This all sounds amusing. But old age plus a cornucopia of cardiac medications causes not-so-amusing vertigo when the lights go out.