Need Wheel Bearing Advice

[rfloyd99]

I need a little advice....I have a Jayco TT 23' (27' overall) that weighs about 5300# loaded. I bought it new in Jan of '16 and have put about 19,500 miles on it. There are grease fittings on the hubs.

After about 15 months and 7,500 miles I had the bearings checked and they said nothing was needed. I watched them and they did not add grease, they just inspected all four and said I was good to go on the long trip I was planning.

I then put another 12,000 miles on it, without ever adding grease. I didn't even realize there were grease fittings until now. (I know, stupid of me. I carefully maintained other things, but this just wasn't on my radar).

So, the question is - do I just need to add grease through the fittings, or do I need to disassemble and "pack" the bearings?

I'm about to go on an 80 mile trip. If they need to be disassembled, can I get by with adding some grease now and pack them before my next longer trip?

Thanks, as always, for the good advice.

[Puddles]

Lynnmor wrote:
First, the guy that "checked" your bearings actually checked nothing. You can't see the condition of all the metal parts thru grease.

Second, most manufacturers recommend 12,000 miles or 12 months for bearing service and brake inspection, you are way overdue.

Third, adding a small amount thru that worthless grease fitting will do nothing. In order to grease the outer bearing you would need to pump grease till the inner bearing is filled, then continue pumping till the cavity is filled and then old grease from the inner bearing is completely forced out thru the outer bearing. Just plain nonsense.

Personally, I would never put a new or used trailer is service till I completely serviced and adjusted the bearings and brakes. I have seen too much and believe you have been lucky.

I agree with Lynnmor... If I'm broke down on the road... I want it to be my fault or an unavoidable failure... trusting to luck will disappoint you often.

[fj12ryder]

Lynnmor wrote:
The difference is that auto companies don't use cheap junk for bearings. Auto spindles have a decent amount of lateral support for the inner bearing shoulder, many trailer axles have next to nothing. I have measured angles, inspected races and consulted with a customer that is a grease expert that has a business doing nothing but this very subject. Because I do inspect, measure, lube and adjust, I think that my expertise has more validity than those that say to ignore the issues and pretend that there are none. Of course do whatever you want, my comments are for those that actually want information.

Why persist in bad-mouthing those that don't agree with you? I'm sure you consider yourself an unofficial expert, but while I agree that there can be issues with insufficient grease during assembly, nicked seals also during assembly, and sometime poor quality bearings, I don't consider these possibilities to warrant yearly repacking of bearings.

Too bad we disagree about your level of expertise and the validity of your beliefs, but c'est la vie. We'll just have to agree to disagree.

FWIW I worked in a can factory for 40 years and assembled, maintained, and replaced many hundreds of sets of tapered roller bearings, and really do know how they well they work when installed correctly. I just disagree with your ideas. For the low load on these bearings, and the low speed operation, minimal bearing shoulder support is a non-issue. Just one of those things we also disagree on. Oh well, life goes on whether we agree or disagree on these little things.

[time2roll]

Dusty R wrote:
What does it take to switch to disk brakes?
I tow a flat bed trailer. The brakes had stopped working on that, when I tore into them I found that they had rusted badly from driving on salted hi ways. I replaced them with new assemblies. Not very happy with the type of brakes that they are.

Dusty

New disks
New calipers
Mounting brackets
Brake fluid lines
Brake fluid pump

Mostly just bolt on parts. I needed a brake line flair tool to get the lines just right. Some just add a loop or two for any excess. You can get anti rust coatings such as Dacroment or full on stainless rotors and calipers if rust will be an issue.

etrailer.com has an excellent assortment of parts made to do a bolt-on conversion. I put my own kit together from several suppliers.

Or you can just buy a complete kit or full installation from https://performancetrailerbraking.com/

The braking is improved significantly.

[Lynnmor]

The difference is that auto companies don't use cheap junk for bearings. Auto spindles have a decent amount of lateral support for the inner bearing shoulder, many trailer axles have next to nothing. I have measured angles, inspected races and consulted with a customer that is a grease expert that has a business doing nothing but this very subject. Because I do inspect, measure, lube and adjust, I think that my expertise has more validity than those that say to ignore the issues and pretend that there are none. Of course do whatever you want, my comments are for those that actually want information.

[fj12ryder]

^^^^^^^^^^^I do agree that a lot depends on the initial condition of your wheel bearings. Bad bearings and insufficient lubrication can lead to future issues.

[Dusty_R]

Your equalizers will only wear out if you haven't already replaced the bolts with wet bolts, and decent bushed equalizers like the EZ-Flex from Dexter. They should be standard equipment.I agree 12mo/12k miles seems a bit much to go by the book. Although I do believe the first repack and inspection is important on a trailer. Once you know it is done right I would also let them run for an extended period. I did my first pack at two years and needed one bearing that was light on grease. Then I went 10 years and put in new bearings when I switched to disk brakes. Old bearings and grease looked fine when removed.

What does it take to switch to disk brakes?
I tow a flat bed trailer. The brakes had stopped working on that, when I tore into them I found that they had rusted badly from driving on salted hi ways. I replaced them with new assemblies. Not very happy with the type of brakes that they are.

Dusty

[2oldman]

fj12ryder wrote:
And exactly what is the difference between the two systems?

There are couple differences...

- Trailers (well, mine) are heavier than cars
- trailers can sit a lot.

Any reason for those things to make a difference?

[fj12ryder]

Lynnmor wrote:
To the OP, be aware that some repeatedly come on here boasting about their lack of maintenance, comparing automotive systems to trailers. ...

And exactly what is the difference between the two systems? The last time I looked at the front wheel of my Dodge truck, it was a Timken-style tapered roller bearing, just like what is on my trailer.

And some of us are not "boasting about lack of maintenance" but rather discussing sensible alternative maintenance intervals. IMO, shared by others I might add, is that the 1 year or 12,000 mile repacking interval is simply a CYA by the people involved in building these trailers, and trailer assemblies.

[time2roll]

fj12ryder wrote:
Just one question: Do you check your car/truck wheel bearings every year or 12,000 miles? I sure don't and honestly see no sense in doing it on my trailer. IMO every few years when I check the brakes works fine. Eight years, 20,000 miles and still going strong. I've read several accounts on this forum about problems that ensued after wheel bearing "maintenance". Sometimes you're better off leaving well enough alone.

Your equalizers will only wear out if you haven't already replaced the bolts with wet bolts, and decent bushed equalizers like the EZ-Flex from Dexter. They should be standard equipment.

I agree 12mo/12k miles seems a bit much to go by the book. Although I do believe the first repack and inspection is important on a trailer. Once you know it is done right I would also let them run for an extended period. I did my first pack at two years and needed one bearing that was light on grease. Then I went 10 years and put in new bearings when I switched to disk brakes. Old bearings and grease looked fine when removed.

[2oldman]

fj12ryder wrote:
Do you check your car/truck wheel bearings every year or 12,000 miles? I sure don't and honestly see no sense in doing it on my trailer. IMO every few years when I check the brakes works fine. Eight years, 20,000 miles and still going strong. I've read several accounts on this forum about problems that ensued after wheel bearing "maintenance". Sometimes you're better off leaving well enough alone.

I'm more on this side of the fence about leaving them alone. And I've never checked my vehicle bearings - on any vehicle.

I have tpms which report heat, I check my hubs often, and everything seems fine after 6 years with no bearing service.

[Lynnmor]

To the OP, be aware that some repeatedly come on here boasting about their lack of maintenance, comparing automotive systems to trailers. I have seen enough of the cheap junk used on trailers and recommend that you disregard the comments about leaving well enough alone, or at least get the phone numbers of those that suggest that, so they can come right out and get you back on the road.

After having a number of cheap Chinese bearings start to fail from both materials and workmanship, I will always replace them with quality bearings such as Timken at the first opportunity.

[Dusty_R]

Bearing Buddies have a spring loaded floating plate that when full of grease DO NOT push grease past the seal but have a release passage where the grease comes out the front near the grease zerk where you can see that the hub is full of grease.
They are great for boat trailers, but also good for any trailer.

Dusty

[mike-s]

donn0128 wrote:

Dennis12 wrote:
Buy yourself a set of Bearing Buddys and you will not ever have to question your bearings again.

ABOSLUTELY NOT!
Bearing buddies are spring loaded and are designed to push the grease and water out past the inner seal.

ABSOLUTELY NOT!

Bearing Buddies are spring loaded and are designed to maintain a constant positive pressure, so water doesn't enter the bearing during a boat launch after towing, where the cooling of the bearing might otherwise suck water in. The spring doesn't have nearly enough pressure to push the grease past good seals.

[Crabbypatty]

x3. They are ment for water use not over the road. It takes about 15 minutes a wheel to disassemble, clean, repack and re assemble. As I drive both on and off road, I do it in the spring when I wake up the trailer for the season. Then you know what you got. What have I found over the years? Leaking seals with grease into the brake drums and a bad bearing. I also carry an extra set to seals and 2 sets of bearings, grease with me. having already been stuck with a brake problem in the middle of nowhere as taught me to carry critical spares. Things that need to make me roll again.. Look up grease tt bearings on youtube, many examples. Happy Trails